The House Plants Thread

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Mr_Bungle

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Biofilm is a colony of organisms, like bacteria, that attach to each other to form a mat. They usually float on top of water or where liquid residue is present (sides of the feed container where feed has drained.)

PH can drop, rise or fluctuate depending on temperature and time. I would absolutely invest in a probe so you know when to adjust the PH or mix a new batch if you don't want to buy PH down or PH up.
 

Lanx

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Biofilm is a colony of organisms, like bacteria, that attach to each other to form a mat. They usually float on top of water or where liquid residue is present (sides of the feed container where feed has drained.)

PH can drop, rise or fluctuate depending on temperature and time. I would absolutely invest in a probe so you know when to adjust the PH or mix a new batch if you don't want to buy PH down or PH up.
ok cool, yea i guess i'll get a probe so i can just leave it in the bucket, man this is getting way more hands on than i like.
 

Lanx

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Lanx Lanx

What does the rest of the plant look like? Specifically the root system. It's very possible it was a less vigor seed. However, we should not rule out the possibility of root disease. They should be bright white with little to no brown strands or spots.

However any additional information about the environmental conditions are always appreciated.

What is the PH of the feed? Does the bucket or feed have any biofilm on the inside?
here's the root of the derpy dead plant, and i guess some new leafs and shit sprouted? idk, i'm color blind but they look like different colors

i opened it up to put the air stone in there, which btw is NOT quiet, holy shit this thing is "whisper quiet" but i can hear it over the mega fan blower
20211104_100800.jpg
 

Mr_Bungle

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It has been quite some time. Here are some Hoya blooms. Enjoy.
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Mr_Bungle

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90% of my collection under a T5 light set to a 12/12 schedule. Most of these are Hoyas, a personal longtime favorite of mine.

Screenshot 2024-08-18 124053.png
 

Mr_Bungle

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This Hoya Mathilde took off after I added this wreath style support I made from a roll of garden fencing.
Screenshot 2024-08-18 123940.png
Screenshot 2024-08-18 124018.png
 

Mr_Bungle

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These are Hoya Serpens. Unlike many others, these need softer light, more water and slightly cooler temps.

Serpens Serpens there is a plant with your name on it lol

Screenshot 2024-08-18 124131.png


Screenshot 2024-08-18 124147.png
 
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Mr_Bungle

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Hoya Curtisii sets its self apart from the rest. Tolerating constant light the foliage is unique among hoyas due to the rough texture and marble patterns. Coupled with the vines being aggressive rooters, this plant kicks ass in Bonsai pots.

Pro tip, this plant wants to drink at least one a week during the growing season. Make sure to mix pearlite, bark chunks and horticultural charcoal for aeration.

Before ~ 2 years ago.

Screenshot 2024-08-18 130326.png



As of today

Screenshot 2024-08-18 124237.png
 

Mr_Bungle

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Hoya Davidcummingii has slowly become one of my favorites, incredibly low maintenance and forgiving of forgetful watering. Also one of the easiest and more fragrant blooms to have, it smells of butterscotch candy (ever bloomer/ all year).

Screenshot 2024-08-18 124210.png



Screenshot 2024-08-18 131335.png


Screenshot 2024-08-18 131359.png
 
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Mr_Bungle

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Senecio Stapeliiformis or the Pickle Plant, sought after for the unique pattern and bright red blooms, sadly I have none yet. For our members in warmer climates you may be able to keep this plant outside.


Screenshot 2024-08-18 124113.png
 

Mr_Bungle

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I don't know about for crops, but my house plants seem to do well with Coco coir as long as I remember to fertilize.

A couple don't like how much moisture is retained with it, so have to watch that more.

Aside from very rare and generally harmless surface mold the coconut coir doesn't seem to break down as much, attract gnats, get smelly, etc. Which wasn't common anyhow, but a few yes had issues. So has required a lot less maintenance, which is good for me as a negligent and reluctant plant owner.

I'll defer to those with more experience, and interested to hear their perspectives. Particularly with indoor food growing.

I have been delving into something new that suits your needs. It's very low maintenance once you have the initial set up complete and the yield is a daily reward after a few weeks.

Growing edible mushrooms indoors is incredibly easy and requires almost no electricity in comparison to other crops.

I have a rather modest set up and I had more mushrooms than I knew what to do with.

The most expensive parts are the Mycology still airbox on Amazon , Humidity Control Device , and the Mini exhaust fan with Matching HEPA filters all Amazon Links BTW. Oops, almost forgot Humidifier with telescoping tube.



I have this exact equipment above with a slightly smaller air box, here are my first round of results. These are Pink Oyster Mushrooms. very easy for a beginner as long as you keep the humidity high, were talking 80% RH. ONLY use distilled water or R.O water, anything else and you will get contamination.


Screenshot 2024-08-19 220230.png
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mushrooms.png

Screenshot 2024-08-19 220904.png

Here are the basic steps if you wanted to try an easy "one and done" just to see.

I used the company North Spore | Premium Mushroom Growing Supplies for my spore culture and sterilized grain bag. I would highly recommend them.

Spore Syringe (Pink Oysters)

Sterilized grain bags


Here's a how to from a guy who's smarter than me

Full Life Cycle Guide




Edit- Lanx Lanx if you still possess any of that grow equipment you could have an absolute treasure trove.
 
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BunkyChutt

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I do keep several pothos, some creeping fig, some wandering Jew. I especially am fond of the spider plant the snake plant. I have used them indoor and easy to maintain.
 
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Mr_Bungle

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My younger Desert Rose bloomed today of all days! This one was a bit finicky when it came to following through on blooms without dropping them prematurely.


20241224_132436.jpg
 
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Bandwagon

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I'm getting a terrarium/ vivarium for my daughter's tree frogs. Any recommendations getting started?
 
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Mr_Bungle

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I'm getting a terrarium/ vivarium for my daughter's tree frogs. Any recommendations getting started?

What species of tree frog and how many of them? Some frogs are more territorial than others and will require a larger enclosure especially when you have several males in a crowded enclosure. Frogs do fight. A more hardy American tree frog will have some differences in care than a more fragile and heat loving tropical tree frog.

I have never had frogs but I know a bit about their care because a fair number of these principals overlap with terrariums and I find them fascinating as animals.

I would check out Josh's Frogs they really care about what they do and will have everything you need and more. They also sell plants grown without chemicals or fertilizers that will permeate the frogs skin making it sick.

This guy is an absolute legend as far as terrariums and frogs

Now for my tangent.

I have some recommendations as far as equipment.

I would recommend one of these styles of enclosure for a few reasons. HOWEVER! BE AWARE SOME MODELS ARENT ENTIRELY GLASS AND HAVE A MESH SIDE(S). Depending on how hot and humid the rest of the house this may be good or bad. Generally tree frogs need high humidity. Some people find that setting up a plastic barrier over the models with a mesh side and adjusting it as needed is the most versatile option, especially when the seasons change.

https://www.amazon.com/REPTI-ZOO-Chameleon-Terrarium-Background/dp/B0DDSTV45H?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

1. Being arboreal frogs, they will have a stronger inclination to climb towards and descend from the lights heat source to help regulate their temperature. The vertical style is more favorable for them.

2. This style is far easier to clean because the front panel opens outward.

3. The vertical style will save you floor/desk space.

4. More of a warning. The higher the canopy the harder the fall. Do not place hard objects other than a shallow bathing bowl or bark accents/hiding places/plant mounts inside for them to fall on. Also don't place a perch too close to the light, this is where the temperature monitor is useful just to know how far the heat is going.


I would also recommend getting a Reptile fog machine, and a pair of sensors for humidity control and temperature, if you only want the humidity sensor and regulator I have it here and I use this specific model for work and growing culinary mushrooms in my spare time. It's a solid product. Sadly, I have never used the fogger before so I can't speak for its effectiveness or quirks as a product. The fogger I use is no longer in production and honestly, doesn't have the volume you're going to need.
 
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Bandwagon

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What species of tree frog and how many of them? Some frogs are more territorial than others and will require a larger enclosure especially when you have several males in a crowded enclosure. Frogs do fight. A more hardy American tree frog will have some differences in care than a more fragile and heat loving tropical tree frog.

I have never had frogs but I know a bit about their care because a fair number of these principals overlap with terrariums and I find them fascinating as animals.

I would check out Josh's Frogs they really care about what they do and will have everything you need and more. They also sell plants grown without chemicals or fertilizers that will permeate the frogs skin making it sick.

This guy is an absolute legend as far as terrariums and frogs

Now for my tangent.

I have some recommendations as far as equipment.

I would recommend one of these styles of enclosure for a few reasons. HOWEVER! BE AWARE SOME MODELS ARENT ENTIRELY GLASS AND HAVE A MESH SIDE(S). Depending on how hot and humid the rest of the house this may be good or bad. Generally tree frogs need high humidity. Some people find that setting up a plastic barrier over the models with a mesh side and adjusting it as needed is the most versatile option, especially when the seasons change.

https://www.amazon.com/REPTI-ZOO-Chameleon-Terrarium-Background/dp/B0DDSTV45H?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1

1. Being arboreal frogs, they will have a stronger inclination to climb towards and descend from the lights heat source to help regulate their temperature. The vertical style is more favorable for them.

2. This style is far easier to clean because the front panel opens outward.

3. The vertical style will save you floor/desk space.

4. More of a warning. The higher the canopy the harder the fall. Do not place hard objects other than a shallow bathing bowl or bark accents/hiding places/plant mounts inside for them to fall on. Also don't place a perch too close to the light, this is where the temperature monitor is useful just to know how far the heat is going.


I would also recommend getting a Reptile fog machine, and a pair of sensors for humidity control and temperature, if you only want the humidity sensor and regulator I have it here and I use this specific model for work and growing culinary mushrooms in my spare time. It's a solid product. Sadly, I have never used the fogger before so I can't speak for its effectiveness or quirks as a product. The fogger I use is no longer in production and honestly, doesn't have the volume you're going to need.

Thanks fella! I ended up ordering some things last night already, including a tank and fogger like you linked. I did get a small heat lamp too, but it sounds like I won't end up needing it. I'll order some more stuff from joshes frogs
 
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