Captain Suave
Caesar si viveret, ad remum dareris.
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Not sure how you're going to use that without accidentally braining someone, but nice work!
Supposed to hold 2lbs of pepper as well.
How big is it (diameter, length of main trunk) and what area are you in (generally)?I've got a good sized black walnut in my back yard that needs to go. Aside from the gigantic mess it makes every other fall fruiting, it's killing my tomato plants every summer and I've just about had it with that. I've got a passable shop in the garage, but I've got much bigger things to worry about these days than black walnut furniture or something. Anyone got any idea if it's worth bothering trying to get rid of to woodworkers, or should I just fell it and stack it for firewood or something?
How big is it (diameter, length of main trunk) and what area are you in (generally)?
This is the kind of thing I'm in for
Oh I'm not even close by. However, it would be worth it to a woodworker. To give you an idea -Minnesota.
My guess is it's about 40 years old, because that's how old the house is, and there's 2 on my lot and not many in the neighborhood. So 35-40 would be my guess. So it's not super huge...I don't have accurate measurements though since it's down the hill from the house, so the perspective is a bit skewed. I'll see if I can remember to get out there with a tape and check it out.
I'm leaning towards just turning it into firewood...just not sure if I have the skills to fell something like that safely.
Oh I'm not even close by. However, it would be worth it to a woodworker. To give you an idea -
If it was 18" diameter and 30 feet long of usable trunk. You could get 300-500 board feet of lumber. At retail by me, walnut is $7 ish per board foot. Wholesale about $4. So this would be worth $1200-1500. Theres some labor in milling, and some waste so $1k is a good number, but it'd be a shame to make it firewood if its living and relatively straight. If I weren't 1000 miles away I 'd clean that up for you
When you knock them down, you should cut some into lengths equal to the diameter. Like 18-24". You can put some on ebay for bowl blanks for wood turners. Probably get $25-40 each
Do NOT mulch the branches and use it for garden mulch or animal bedding. It has a chemical calked Juglone that kills certain plants (tomatoes are highly susceptible). Animals like horses can become lame or get foot diseases if they bed in it.
Also, it is present in the roots and will leech into the soil. You'll need to get the stumps pulled (not ground!). After they are excavated it will take 2-6 months for the juglone in the soil to oxidize and lose its toxicity.
Are you sure you dont want to just move your tomatoes? Sounds much cheaper
I feel you. Home grown tomatoes are the win. Good luck. I wish you many pots of marinara, plates of caprese salad, and fat slabs of beefsteak to top your burgers!I have a lot that's almost an acre. The trees are downhill from the garden. We've tried raised beds and potted.
The tip off was actually the pots, that's how we knew it's not a fungus or something in the soil.bThe tree emits juglone from every part of it...so it just drifts and covers the entire yard. Takes a few months, and then it just kills the plants.
So, unless I wanna move my tomatoes across the street...no, I don't have many options.
barely 3 months old... and last night it bowed so much it split with a 6inch gap
b4 i put a machette down the middle, what would be best option?If it split badly over that period of time, it's probably because you didn't oil it and then let water soak in to only one side during washing, which will cause the top face to expand. Even a cutting board made from totally green wood won't warp that badly that fast. Long grain cutting boards do require some small amount of care and maintenance.
To repair, I'd finish opening the split, handplane the faces square and parallel, and reglue. Packing with filler will fail again and I doubt the surface is clean enough after use to get good glue adhesion anyway.
Being very sensitive to splitting the wood itself, I'd warm the joint with a heat gun or hair dryer and then gently and slowly pry it open with the thinnest knife/scraper/etc. I had that didn't feel like it was going to break. Most modern wood glues start to lose adhesion above 120-130 F or so.b4 i put a machette down the middle, what would be best option?
oh yea i have a few scrappers and putty knives and a heat gun... manBeing very sensitive to splitting the wood itself, I'd warm the joint with a heat gun or hair dryer and then gently and slowly pry it open with the thinnest knife/scraper/etc. I had that didn't feel like it was going to break. Most modern wood glues start to lose adhesion above 120-130 F or so.
this cutting board is barely 3 months old
it started bowing, and last night it bowed so much it split with a 6inch gap (now it's not bowyed no more)
i've ordered another cutting board, this time to prevent possible bowing an endgrain 2inch thicc boy acacia one.
anyway, it looks like a waste to throw this out, it'd make a nice charcuterie board.
can i find some woodsafe glue, mix it with sawdust and just pack in the seem? it looks like the split is only 2mm at the largest gap.
oh yea i have a few scrappers and putty knives and a heat gun... man
Any non-water soluble wood glue is fine, really. (Don't use hide glue.) Even with the ones that aren't explicitly food safe, it's not like you're going to be gnawing on the cutting board.non toxic fda approved, this glue good enough? i got elmers atm