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I use it to repair antiques, especially when regluing joints, because it can be repaired in the future and it stays true to the traditional methods/materials.
Otherwise there's not much reason to use it these days.
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Woodworking
- Thread starter Intrinsic
- Start date
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
Otherwise there's not much reason to use it these days.
Soygen
The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
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Finishing up the bearded dragon terrarium. I'd prefer to never make anything out of melamine again, that's for sure. This was the first project I cut glass on as well. Made the doors out of poplar and cut / installed glass to fit. Lighting/heating are installed. I was going to put this on a stand of some sort, but didn't feel like building a stand, so I put legs on it. Now we're working on all the interior stuff for the lizard to live in and on. Been a fun little project, but looking forward to getting back to working on some stuff that I actually need/want around the house.
The very beginning:
Legs on:
UVB lamp installed and heat lamp mounted on the top of the box:
Glue up on the door frames:
Almost finished. Really annoyed with some of the edge banding on the melamine, but the customer is a 13 year old who didn't pay shit...
The very beginning:
Legs on:
UVB lamp installed and heat lamp mounted on the top of the box:
Glue up on the door frames:
Almost finished. Really annoyed with some of the edge banding on the melamine, but the customer is a 13 year old who didn't pay shit...
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Soygen
The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
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Added brag post. I have a raggedy ass Craftsman 10" bandsaw and this past weekend, I decided to order an upgrade. Have this delivering next Friday. Looking forward to setting it up and letting her rip! I really need to stop 'drinking and interneting'!
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BrutulTM
Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Sweet. I always want to buy Jet stuff and then wind up buying Shop Fox knock offs instead.
So I've finally finished working on the fence for my table saw. Hopefully I can manage to do the same job on the guys and rest of the cabinet. The only thing I need is a new micro adjustment knob. The old ones geared teeth rusted right off to the pole.
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Kovaks
Mr. Poopybutthole
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Got this thing delivered yesterday, had to redo the top a few times, first she wanted it darker than the stain so I swapped to the age wood accelerator but didn't read the instructions and when I put poly on it turned dark brown instead of grey. Had to sand down and try again with lacquer. Was top heavy so not as stable as I would have liked but not bad and I anchored it to the wall so he kids don't die which compensated.
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There's still enough open floor to walk to the door, you rookie.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Had a little bit of time today to keep working on my writing desk project. Trying to do as "much" hand tool work as possible. From jointing to the planning of the top. Mortises will be done by hand but I'm not convinced I want to use hand tools on the rest. This has been fun but time to bring out the Sawstop and Dewalt.
With this new HEIC or whatever BS Apple crap I can't even upload photos the same way. Saved them and converted to JPG and JPEG but the board says "Oops! That's not an image!" So anyways, Snipping tool it is.
Did everything with my Stanley #4 and a Taytools #7. I'm far from proficient and had a few struggles with some chattering, I think it is called, from the planes. So yeah, I did hit it with some 220 grit 3M Xtract on the random orbit. I really like those sanding discs btw, have everything from 80+ and up to 240 which is just about as high as I typically sand. May grab some 320 as well.
We won't be calibrating any NASA instruments on it, but it is flat enough for me and was best to stop while I was ahead without damaging it anymore. There are a couple of spots you can obviously see where during glue up it slipped a little (there's another story about my biscuit joiner being misaligned for some strange reason and I made the mistake of not testing it [like I ALWAYS do] before making two holes that were crooked). I didn't feel comfortable taking any more off so there's probably a... 1/64th or less ridge. It jumps out more in the photo when the light hits it.
Did both sides so that I could pick which one eventually would be the top. The base that it is sitting on isn't even at the moment, it doesn't actually have that much of a bow in it.
With this new HEIC or whatever BS Apple crap I can't even upload photos the same way. Saved them and converted to JPG and JPEG but the board says "Oops! That's not an image!" So anyways, Snipping tool it is.
Did everything with my Stanley #4 and a Taytools #7. I'm far from proficient and had a few struggles with some chattering, I think it is called, from the planes. So yeah, I did hit it with some 220 grit 3M Xtract on the random orbit. I really like those sanding discs btw, have everything from 80+ and up to 240 which is just about as high as I typically sand. May grab some 320 as well.
We won't be calibrating any NASA instruments on it, but it is flat enough for me and was best to stop while I was ahead without damaging it anymore. There are a couple of spots you can obviously see where during glue up it slipped a little (there's another story about my biscuit joiner being misaligned for some strange reason and I made the mistake of not testing it [like I ALWAYS do] before making two holes that were crooked). I didn't feel comfortable taking any more off so there's probably a... 1/64th or less ridge. It jumps out more in the photo when the light hits it.
Did both sides so that I could pick which one eventually would be the top. The base that it is sitting on isn't even at the moment, it doesn't actually have that much of a bow in it.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Let me know what route you go with the dowel jig. I’ve been looking at the Rockler one or getting in to their loose tennon system vs Festool.
Rockler Doweling Jig Kit with Bit and Stop Collar
Dual stops provide perfect alignment on either edge—depth scale is molded into jig for easy location of the stop collar.
Task also has a nice one that I’ve considered:
Task Premium Doweling Jig | Woodcraft
Buy the Premium Doweling Jig for sale online from Woodcraft. Visit us to order online or find your local Woodcraft store today!
www.woodcraft.com
If I had more time I’d make this one maybe.
I really like my Wen bench jointer. For the price I paid it is perfectly fine and if you’re doing things that size and just want to learn it’d be fine. I’m about to seriously consider a larger size though and would be willing to let you have the Wen. Just depends on your timeline for need.
WEN JT3062 10-Amp 6-Inch 2-Blade Benchtop Jointer, Black Amazon product ASIN B09T3X81H3
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Looks nice!
In my limited experience, chattering is from insufficient sharpening and/or not stropping the plane irons often enough during the work.
I see that Task doweling jig a lot and haven't heard a complaint about it.
Adebisi
Clump of Cells
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The price of a patio sectional is crazy where I am (or maybe just everywhere?). I'm considernig building one - I have a piece of 3" foam I can turn into cushions.
Something like this:
My qustion is - would having 3" foam sitting on just wood boards be very comfy? I know a lot of sectional use wicker. Is there another solution I can put as the surface of the sectional or you think the planks are fine?
Something like this:
My qustion is - would having 3" foam sitting on just wood boards be very comfy? I know a lot of sectional use wicker. Is there another solution I can put as the surface of the sectional or you think the planks are fine?
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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No pictures, but I made another attempt with dowelling + alignment last night....just using the $30 amazon jig instead of my stupid laser cut one. Worked great, pretty much dead on.
Now for the question I've been embarrassed to ask -
Long, straight cuts - What are my "good" options? I have an old ass table saw, but I feel like I'm not going to get what I want out of it unless I make an entire dedicated table for it and I don't really want to give up that much real estate. I feel like I can never get a good, straight cut when just using a jobsite tablesaw with a small table. This is mainly for 4'x8' and 2'x4' cuts. Am I just being a bitch about it and need to suck it up and practice a bunch?
What about the....what are they called....It's like a circular saw that's attached to a slide? I have one of the guides that you can rest a jigsaw/circular saw against, but I always end up with one little oopsie.
Now for the question I've been embarrassed to ask -
Long, straight cuts - What are my "good" options? I have an old ass table saw, but I feel like I'm not going to get what I want out of it unless I make an entire dedicated table for it and I don't really want to give up that much real estate. I feel like I can never get a good, straight cut when just using a jobsite tablesaw with a small table. This is mainly for 4'x8' and 2'x4' cuts. Am I just being a bitch about it and need to suck it up and practice a bunch?
What about the....what are they called....It's like a circular saw that's attached to a slide? I have one of the guides that you can rest a jigsaw/circular saw against, but I always end up with one little oopsie.
Basically any functioning tablesaw with a square fence should cut straight enough for any purposes except fine joinery. If you're cutting construction lumber, I'd bet what you're seeing is the wood itself bowing or cupping after the cut as internal stresses are released. You'll need to re-joint the edge (hand/powered jointer or jointing sled on tablesaw) if you can't just bend it straight for the purposes of your project.
Tracksaws. They're not as accurate as table saws, though lots of people use them for convenience, particularly on sheets, panels, and slabs.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Tracksaw.
It isn't a requirement at all but could be a nice to have. As you mention Bora and other manufacturers have universal tracks that you can use on your circular saw, or you can go more specialized and buy one from Festool or similar.
I have a version of this and hate it, Kreg makes one too:
Amazon product ASIN B089DM9M89
"Really" all you need is a good long straight edge and some clamps. Get a reference face that you know is straight, whether it is angle iron, a measuring stick, or another board with a straight face, and clamp it down as your guide.
One of the keys is to remember your references. Pick one end of your board to be the reference and align your guide 90 degrees to that edge. Don't walk to the other edge and realign it to 90 degrees b/c there's no guarantee that the two faces are parallel. Do your pass with the circ saw and you should have a good enough reference to start from. I only really like this option on wide board but that's a personal thing b/c I like having enough surface area to securely clamp down my board and guide so nothing moves, as well as enough area for the base of my circular saw to ride on.
If you're ripping long boards on a table saw I'd say just take it slow and give it some practice. The cheaper table saws will cut well enough but require more set up and checking for accuracy between cuts. Basically. Take a little extra prep time to make sure your fence is aligned and secure. You should be able to get a "Flat" edge, but it may not be 90 or parallel to the opposite face if your face against the fence isn't already jointed (this is where a jointer comes in handy to make sure you have a known good reference face).
You can use a straight edge there also on the table saw. Put it between your board and your fence and move it with the board you're ripping. It'll act like a false face for your board and give you a more or less straight opposite face.
Some of this is overly complicated but is a couple of ideas.
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Goatface
Avatar of War Slayer
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what kind of foam? friend's wife made some cushions with 4" high density/upholstery foam for their bench seats and it works great.
i like narrower slats as they flex a bit.
also, more work and room, but much better the standard L shaped, don't like that back though, needs more angle and would go with side to side boards.
Burns
Avatar of War Slayer
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As Goatface was hinting at, it all depends on the foam, but don't expect miracles by just using foam on top of wood. Also, foam varies substantially in softness and most manufacturers of good seat cushions will use at least two types of foam in layers, if not 3 or 4 (1+ inch thick layers, or a firmer thicker layer sandwiched between 2 thinner softer layers). If you are too heavy for the foam you will just sink through it all and if you are too light, it wont be much better than wood (link to explanation of foam weights and durability at the bottom).
The best bet, if you want want a softer sit, is to use the jute/upholstery webbing method, instead of straight wood, under the foam. I think many of the commercially sold outside couches use this method with a piece of cloth over the webbing. Main downside is that it will probably rot faster than the wood (same rate as the cushion fabric, maybe). The more webbing you use (the closer the weave), the firmer the base will be.
They are going to use springs, along with the webbing for this ottoman, so they are putting the webbing on the bottom, but it's still a good tutorial on one way to attach them (only 480p):
Longer full tutorial in 720:
About foam:
Here are two decent write ups on the various foams for upholstery:
Foam Density and Firmness, What It Means, and How to Tell | Foam How
Density and firmness are two separate but important measurements of foam. Here's a simple explanation of foam firmness and foam density. An easy guide.
foamhow.com
Differences & Similarities Between Foam Density, Weight & Firmness
Looking for your next foam mattress purchase but unsure about some key terms? We'll help you learn about foam density, weight, and firmness.
foamonline.com
Here is an idea of prices for each (I think I have purchased from them, or at least it was bookmarked):
High Density Foam | Open Cell Foam | Foam N More | Foam n More & Upholstery
Our high-density foam is great for mattresses, cars, chair pads, boat cushions, church pews, upholstery shops, camping, packaging, massage tables.
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