lurker
Vyemm Raider
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I think it's a great idea. It's something you can take from house to house and always remember when you made it and how old it is. The smaller the better so that you'll always have a place for it.
Woodworking
- Thread starter Intrinsic
- Start date
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
The Maker's Mob (conglomerate of YouTube woodworking personalities) is having a $0.99 sale. I did this last summer and downloaded all the plans that interested me. Good deal if you're stingy.
go.themakersmob.com
JOIN NOW ONLY - 99¢
go.themakersmob.com
Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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The Maker's Mob (conglomerate of YouTube woodworking personalities) is having a $0.99 sale. I did this last summer and downloaded all the plans that interested me. Good deal if you're stingy.
JOIN NOW ONLY - 99¢
I remember you posting last year but was in the middle of selling my house and moving to an apartment before getting my house and shop. May do it this year. Nice to have references. Just recently bought about 5 books of Shaker history, shop drawings, and collections.
Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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My mom has a very simple looking small antique writing table that has trick old school tip up 80/20 split top with a hidden brass piano hinge (like old fashion school desks) with a felt lined shallow storage under the top ( for paper and envelops probably) and then a traditional pull out drawer under that (pens and wax seals probably). That thing is pretty spiffy. It's cherry wood and all dovetails. Probably 120 yrs old.
Maybe I can get picks of it if it doesn't have shit stacked on it next time I am there. It was probably a production piece and not 1 of 1, you might be able to find examples of that style online some place.
Something like that would make a nice entry way table, and a good place to stash extra keys, etc. post nuptials.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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That sounds very nice, don't go out of your way. I'm starting work on a writing desk design that I've pretty much settled on, from a 1990 issue of Fine Woodworking.
Drafting it out to see if there are any dimensions I want to change or drawer arrangement. Found a couple of errors in their drawing and measurements. It is a little large with a 32x60 top, so may want to reduce that a bit. Going to pick up 30 or so bf of cherry this weekend to start laying out in real life.
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Right so here's my newest problem.
I started working on the tablesaw fence. And the knob and pinion for the fence micro adjustment is just so stuck. 8 days of hitting it with penetrating oils and taps and it ain't budging. The inside where the teeth are is really rusted badly.
Anyone got any ideas? Lol
I started working on the tablesaw fence. And the knob and pinion for the fence micro adjustment is just so stuck. 8 days of hitting it with penetrating oils and taps and it ain't budging. The inside where the teeth are is really rusted badly.
Anyone got any ideas? Lol
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Oy, this is tough. My first inclination is to tell you to go buy a new biesemeyer fence or the best quality fence you can get. Accuracy /safety rely on a fence that is parallel to the blade and 90° to the table.
However, if you have to save this one, theres 2 other strategies:
1. Clean off the oil with degreaser/acetone and submerge it (the part with the rusted adjuster) in a chelation type deruster like evapo-rust for 3 days or so. This may dissolve/convert enough rust to get it moving.
2. If it's steel (not aluminum) you can try a few heat/cool cycles with a propane torch. You have to get it to at least glowing dark red. Depending on how thin the metal is, you could warp it doing this.
I dunno man. Replace it and oil the adjusters annually. Probably cheaper.
However, if you have to save this one, theres 2 other strategies:
1. Clean off the oil with degreaser/acetone and submerge it (the part with the rusted adjuster) in a chelation type deruster like evapo-rust for 3 days or so. This may dissolve/convert enough rust to get it moving.
2. If it's steel (not aluminum) you can try a few heat/cool cycles with a propane torch. You have to get it to at least glowing dark red. Depending on how thin the metal is, you could warp it doing this.
I dunno man. Replace it and oil the adjusters annually. Probably cheaper.
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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This will do what you want.
PB Blaster 16PBDS Penetrant Rust Remover, Machine & Tool Lubricants, 11oz (1 pack) - Walmart.com
Buy PB Blaster 16PBDS Penetrant Rust Remover, Machine & Tool Lubricants, 11oz (1 pack) at Walmart.com
www.walmart.com
Zapatta
Krugman's Fax Machine
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- 439,525
Buy a can of Kroil. It aint cheap but NOTHING works better. Liquid Wrench etc are cheap garbage. I have brought saws built in the 50s and 60s that were left out in the ocean air for a decade back to life with 1-2 cans of Kroil and 4-5 hrs of working the parts back and forth.
Thank me later and sing it praises to anyone who will listen.
Pro-Tip Secret, you can make your own Kroil by mixing 50% acetone and 50% automatic trans fluid.
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Ty guys. I'm going to give the Kroll and rust blaster a go. I've also got an old jointer to work on next anyhow. But that's in relatively good condition for being from mid 40s.
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Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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First I heard of this magic mixture was from Steve’s small engine saloon. He doesn’t make as many vids these days but he’s a great resource for small engine knowledge.Buy a can of Kroil. It aint cheap but NOTHING works better. Liquid Wrench etc are cheap garbage. I have brought saws built in the 50s and 60s that were left out in the ocean air for a decade back to life with 1-2 cans of Kroil and 4-5 hrs of working the parts back and forth.
Thank me later and sing it praises to anyone who will listen.
Pro-Tip Secret, you can make your own Kroil by mixing 50% acetone and 50% automatic trans fluid.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Picked up my Cherry stock today.
8/4 63" for the legs
6' #1 Common Cherry for internal drawer dividers
10" and 13" boards for the aprons and top
Will probably use the 13" + 2 of the 10" for the top and cut my aprons out of the remaining 10" board. They're all 8' and based off my cut list that should be more than sufficient. I also have some 6/4 stock.
I'm a little concerned about storing these for the moment. Right now they're all between 6 - 8% moisture content and I'm not 100% sure when work will begin. Redoing some of my dust collection (again) and still doing wedding planning stuff.
Should I put spacers in between so that the air circle evenly when / in case they take on increased moisture. Should just move them to the floor so they're supported evenly across the length?
8/4 63" for the legs
6' #1 Common Cherry for internal drawer dividers
10" and 13" boards for the aprons and top
Will probably use the 13" + 2 of the 10" for the top and cut my aprons out of the remaining 10" board. They're all 8' and based off my cut list that should be more than sufficient. I also have some 6/4 stock.
I'm a little concerned about storing these for the moment. Right now they're all between 6 - 8% moisture content and I'm not 100% sure when work will begin. Redoing some of my dust collection (again) and still doing wedding planning stuff.
Should I put spacers in between so that the air circle evenly when / in case they take on increased moisture. Should just move them to the floor so they're supported evenly across the length?
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I havent done woodworking in a hot minute but used to, Im just wondering how much did that wood cost these days?
Spacers, fully supported, and give them a few weeks in the same environment as the furniture will sit. Waiting longer might allow the boards to warp but your completed project will (probably) warp less.
I did my first few shop furniture projects with green construction lumber, and holy shit the amount that they shrank was hilarious. Some boards are fully 3/8'' narrower than when I assembled the piece.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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You had me interested so I looked at the hand written receipt carbon copy I have
8/4 Short is $8.00 bf * 6.344 bf = $50.75
#1 Common is $5.00 bf * 4.38 bf = $21.88
4/4 FAS/SEL is $8.10 bf * 21 bf = $170.10
4/4 13" is $12.00 bf * 8.33 bf = $100
$340 + tax so $370. Worked out to $9.25 / bf I think. The 13" piece was an outlier but it looked real nice and wanted to give it a shot.
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Intrinsic
Person of Whiteness
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Looking at a Wood Equilibrium Moisture Content Table, and adjusting for the Average RH and Temperature in Arkansas, I'm just gonna do what you said.
Based on the history of this wood it came from an F3 in NW Arkansas / Madison County in 1996, had been kiln dried and air dried since then. Was some of the last stock they had from that salvage purchase.
Tornado outbreak sequence of April 1996 - Wikipedia
Soygen
The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
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Bandwagon
Kolohe
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That's what I was thinking. I blushed when I saw that picture.
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