Woodworking

Intrinsic · Apr 15, 2023

Wife surprised me by coming home a day early so I started rushing to finish my bed project for our 5 year old. Few things got tweaked and I wasn't able to finish everything. Main thing left are the mattress slats. Didn't pre-cut 24 of them because based on experience that just seems like something best left done at the time they're needed.

All the drawers and drawer faces are cut and painted (see Home Improvement thread). Tomorrow will be slats, drawer slides, and cabinet doors for the storage / secret cubby. Didn't have a chance to look for drawer pulls today. Drawer slides are Centerline from Rockler. Wanted to try them out instead of the $10 ones from Amazon. 3 of them are 100lb rated and then two for the steps to get up to the bed are 220lb. Figure better safe than sorry for the kiddo.

Also, screw trying to put this together with 1 person. My bar clamps are only 6' and I should have just taken the 10 minutes to go to Lowe's and get some 8' pipe and save myself a ton of trouble. Also also, screw putting this together on carpet.

moonarchia · Apr 15, 2023

Intrinsic said:
Wife surprised me by coming home a day early so I started rushing to finish my bed project for our 5 year old. Few things got tweaked and I wasn't able to finish everything. Main thing left are the mattress slats. Didn't pre-cut 24 of them because based on experience that just seems like something best left done at the time they're needed.

All the drawers and drawer faces are cut and painted (see Home Improvement thread). Tomorrow will be slats, drawer slides, and cabinet doors for the storage / secret cubby. Didn't have a chance to look for drawer pulls today. Drawer slides are Centerline from Rockler. Wanted to try them out instead of the $10 ones from Amazon. 3 of them are 100lb rated and then two for the steps to get up to the bed are 220lb. Figure better safe than sorry for the kiddo.

Also, screw trying to put this together with 1 person. My bar clamps are only 6' and I should have just taken the 10 minutes to go to Lowe's and get some 8' pipe and save myself a ton of trouble. Also also, screw putting this together on carpet.

View attachment 469271

It doubles as a punishment cage too? That's good parenting!

Bandwagon · Apr 22, 2023

Went to the wood store to pick up some walnut for that map table I'm trying to finish up.

I'm kinda tired of these things as tables, but the guy at the wood store said that this one is going to be a bathroom door in an air bnb. I actually love that idea.

Intrinsic · Apr 22, 2023

One of the HGTV shows was on in the background, think it was the one with the big redhead beard dude and his tiny wife, anyways they did something similar with some drawer fronts. Initially it looked really nice and I could see it working well in a more modern walnut credenza or something. But man then end product looked like total crap to me.

whoo · Apr 22, 2023

Bandwagon said:
Went to the wood store to pick up some walnut for that map table I'm trying to finish up.

I'm kinda tired of these things as tables, but the guy at the wood store said that this one is going to be a bathroom door in an air bnb. I actually love that idea.
View attachment 470149

Unless that's totally encased in epoxy, the wood will warp/twist like crazy with the humidity and temperature changes of a bathroom, assuming it has a shower. When people make slab tables like that, they usually leave the wood to be finished with poly, rubio, varnish, etc which are not completely waterproof.

Cool idea maybe, especially if they get the epoxy to transmit light without showing shapes through it. But wood slabs are just not stable near big swings in humidity.

Burns · Apr 22, 2023

whoo said:
Unless that's totally encased in epoxy, the wood will warp/twist like crazy with the humidity and temperature changes of a bathroom, assuming it has a shower. When people make slab tables like that, they usually leave the wood to be finished with poly, rubio, varnish, etc which are not completely waterproof.

Cool idea maybe, especially if they get the epoxy to transmit light without showing shapes through it. But wood slabs are just not stable near big swings in humidity.

I was wondering how well the epoxy "river" is really bonded to the wood, and if that is strong enough to put up with the stresses put on a door through normal use. Didn't even think of the humidity of the bathroom causing issues all by it's self.

On a different note, I need to router some LED strips into some shelves, as seen in the following video. Anyone have recommendations on plunge cut trim bit manufacturers? I see some ~$20 spiral down cut bits on Amazon, but no idea how shit they actually are.

This guy looks to have some good carpentry tutorials:

BrutulTM · Apr 22, 2023

Burns said:
I was wondering how well the epoxy "river" is really bonded to the wood, and if that is strong enough to put up with the stresses put on a door through normal use. Didn't even think of the humidity of the bathroom causing issues all by it's self.

On a different note, I need to router some LED strips into some shelves, as seen in the following video. Anyone have recommendations on plunge cut trim bit manufacturers? I see some ~$20 spiral down cut bits on Amazon, but no idea how shit they actually are.

This guy looks to have some good carpentry tutorials:

Whiteside is a good name for router bits. Freud is another big name. If you are just using it for a project the Chinese version will probably get the job done but I did have one violently change shape on me once during heavy use which was pretty scary.

Intrinsic · Apr 22, 2023

Burns said:
I was wondering how well the epoxy "river" is really bonded to the wood, and if that is strong enough to put up with the stresses put on a door through normal use. Didn't even think of the humidity of the bathroom causing issues all by it's self.

On a different note, I need to router some LED strips into some shelves, as seen in the following video. Anyone have recommendations on plunge cut trim bit manufacturers? I see some ~$20 spiral down cut bits on Amazon, but no idea how shit they actually are.

This guy looks to have some good carpentry tutorials:

You want an upcut to pull the chips out of the dado towards the router (if it is underneath maybe it isn’t relevant since you won’t see the dado edges). Whiteside is who I would recommend, but it is all cost benefit. Some of their standard bits are priced regularly, but their specialty ones can get super expensive. Still though, I buy almost exclusively them just because.

Probably unless it is plywood. Which may cause an issue with upcut bit? I’d probably still try it.

Burns · Apr 22, 2023

Intrinsic said:
You want an upcut to pull the chips out of the dado towards the router (if it is underneath maybe it isn’t relevant since you won’t see the dado edges). Whiteside is who I would recommend, but it is all cost benefit. Some of their standard bits are priced regularly, but their specialty ones can get super expensive. Still though, I buy almost exclusively them just because.

Probably unless it is plywood. Which may cause an issue with upcut bit? I’d probably still try it.

It's going to be A1 white oak ply, yea. I thought with a jig set up, like the guy in that video, it would prevent chipping the face with an upcut, but he said a downcut is what he would use, if he didn't have the collar set up he used.

Bandwagon · Apr 23, 2023

2in X 2in x 18in. Walnut.

What the hell do I search for on Amazon to find that? Some variations of "Table legs" never works.

whoo · Apr 23, 2023

Downcut on plywood. Clear the chips after each pass.

If you're routing through epoxy, you can burn/melt it if theres too much heat from friction. Make sure to take shallow passes and vacuum the chips out after each pass.

Whiteside bits are top notch. Take a look at Bits&Bits (bitsbits.com) they sell whiteside bits with a friction reducing coating ("Astra coated" iirc). I haven't compared prices. Note that not all bits they sell are Whiteside, it will be in the name if it is. However, the bits they make themselves with Astra Coating are also good.

whoo · Apr 23, 2023

Bandwagon said:
2in X 2in x 18in. Walnut.

What the hell do I search for on Amazon to find that? Some variations of "Table legs" never works.

I don't think you're going to find that on Amazon. I'd find a hardwood supplier near you. They can cut that for you out of 8/4 walnut.

If theres a Woodcraft or Rockler store near you, you could buy 1" thick boards (they probably sell 2-3 ft long) , glue them together to get 2", then cut them into 2x2x18 yourself.

whoo · Apr 23, 2023

Burns said:
I was wondering how well the epoxy "river" is really bonded to the wood

The epoxy is stronger than the wood. The bond is not an issue. However, the wood could not only warp, but crack with expansion/contraction cycles. Waterproofing would be a key consideration in a high humidity/wet environment.

Slabs that size could move up to 1/4" across the grain. If the movement is prevented/constrained (like by epoxy, screws, a frame of some sort), something bad will happen. Anyone who makes solid wood projects of medium to large size (like furniture, tables, doors, beds, even custom solid wood trimwork) has to plan for this movement as a part of the design.

Burns · Apr 23, 2023

whoo said:
Downcut on plywood. Clear the chips after each pass.

If you're routing through epoxy, you can burn/melt it if theres too much heat from friction. Make sure to take shallow passes and vacuum the chips out after each pass.

Whiteside bits are top notch. Take a look at Bits&Bits (bitsbits.com) they sell whiteside bits with a friction reducing coating ("Astra coated" iirc). I haven't compared prices. Note that not all bits they sell are Whiteside, it will be in the name if it is. However, the bits they make themselves with Astra Coating are also good.

Yea, wow, the price on the only spiral pattern bit is a little high:

2023-04-23 15.51.26 bitsbits.com 7a7d33bd3e5f.png

Maybe I will just go with using a bushing and one of the regular $20-40 1/4" Bit & Bit or Freud carbide spiral bits (with a bunch of shallow passes and needing to calculate the offset of the bushing).

I have read that you can use painters tape to prevent chipping with a straight bit, so maybe it's better to use the $44 1/2" template Whiteside bit.

I'm cutting around 18 foot of wood and the dado needs to be around 18mm wide by 8.5mm deep.

Bandwagon · Apr 23, 2023

whoo said:
I don't think you're going to find that on Amazon. I'd find a hardwood supplier near you. They can cut that for you out of 8/4 walnut.

If theres a Woodcraft or Rockler store near you, you could buy 1" thick boards (they probably sell 2-3 ft long) , glue them together to get 2", then cut them into 2x2x18 yourself.

Thanks. I got a bunch of 1 1/4 in walnut, but anything over 1 3/4 was a big fucking slab and I didn't want to buy the whole thing

Cutlery · Apr 23, 2023

Bandwagon said:
Thanks. I got a bunch of 1 1/4 in walnut, but anything over 1 3/4 was a big fucking slab and I didn't want to buy the whole thing

I'd sell you some, but it looks like a lot of my stuff is cupping in the stack as it's drying. Little bit of a bummer.

Bandwagon · Apr 23, 2023

Would this pine look silly if I stained it with walnut stain? The top borders are real walnut.

Here's the 1.25in walnut legs, for co.parison. I didn't have the apron on here though

Intrinsic · Apr 23, 2023

You know my opinion. The legs just needs a taper

.

Bandwagon · Apr 23, 2023

You'll got a chamfer at the tip and you'll godamn like it, mister

whoo · Apr 23, 2023

Bandwagon said:
Would this pine look silly if I stained it with walnut stain? The top borders are real walnut.

Unfortunately, yes

There are some techniques to do it, but staining the wood would be only the first of many steps. It would be cheaper, easier, and you'd get a better result just building the base out of walnut if that's what you want the end result to be.

Stain alone on the pine will be blotchy and uneven. It's better to keep the pine as is, or replace it with Walnut.

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