Woodworking

Intrinsic said:

Tons of workbench plans out there. You could take your pic and then just add casters to it. Unless you’re looking for something special that would differentiate it from a mobile vs stationary.

Not sure where the pegboard would go, down low / on the sides? You wouldn’t really have that high of a back on a mobile version, would you?

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That's what prompted the question. I DO want to mount it to something like a 2ft by 4ft workbench with casters, but only so I can (carefully) move it on occasion. It wouldn't be a regular thing. I know it would be unstable as shit if not up against a wall. And these are the casters that I'm using, so it'd be sitting on the 4x4 most of the time.



The first workbench I made when I bought the house is a 4x8 and I mounted these to it last night. Works fine, but I also don't have it loaded up with lumber right now like I normally do.

Bandwagon said:

The rolling lumber cart I made taught me that the stuff I "improv" sucks compared to what I make off plans.

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I have done the same thing many times. It seems like such a good idea in your head but then you realize "Oh, I guess if this actually worked well someone else would have done it by now."

I don't want to be Debbie downie, here (derp.) but mounting tool storage to a mobile bench is a bad idea in general and here are some specific things to consider :

1. Do you plan to hammer or do anything else that will jar or vibrate the bench? Stuff may just fall off your pegboard. Some tools (chisels) damage easily and are a pain to fix.

2. The great thing about mobile benches is flexibility. Having anything attached above the top will limit the size and shape of things you can put on it.

You're better off with drawers under a very sturdy bench if you have nowhere else for your tools.

Tons of workbench videos out there.

I started planning the walnut legs for the table im working on today. I just realized it's kind of a trapezoid and that the planer isn't going to fix that. Never really thought of that before.

What's the fix for this? Square it up in the table saw first?

Just finished running them through the tablesaw. They seem to check out with a combination square

Halp.

How do I square this up? 26x26x3.25in. too thick for the table saw and CNC.

Thanks. Longer bit isn't an option on the CNC because if it's long enough to cut through, it's too long to clear the stock in the first place. And I didn't think I could flip the piece accurately.

Your other ideas kinda confirmed a few of mine. I was thinking cut 2in deep with the CNC, hand cut the rest and use a flush trim but to clean it up. Either that or head to the wood shop for the jointer like you suggested

Bandwagon said:

Thanks. Longer bit isn't an option on the CNC because if it's long enough to cut through, it's too long to clear the stock in the first place. And I didn't think I could flip the piece accurately.

Your other ideas kinda confirmed a few of mine. I was thinking cut 2in deep with the CNC, hand cut the rest and use a flush trim but to clean it up. Either that or head to the wood shop for the jointer like you suggested

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Any millwork shop or hardwood supplier has the tools and would do this for you (for a fee). If you want it perfectly square and flat, its a good option. In my somewhat limited experience, the fees are $50-100 range.

If you just want an excuse for a jointer, go for it! You should buy the one with the helical carbide cutter head

Cutlery said:

I thought chainsawing this shit was grueling. This is exhausting. I've got a 2 inch surfacing bit on a top of the line Bosch router, but you can only cut 1/4" deep and maybe take 3/4" passes before the bit bogs down in this stuff, so it's an absolute slog doing a slab when you've gotta remove that much material.

One side of the first big slab done though. This piece is about 2' by 4'.View attachment 502075

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I don't know if this is relevant, but I stopped using the surfacing bit on the CNC for the same reason. Now I just use a 1/4in endmill to take away most of the material. For the final 0.1in, I either use the surface bit or a 2in sanding disc. The surfacing bits suck for taking away a lot of material. Way faster with the endmill, then finish off with the surfacing bit.