Woodworking

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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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Tons of workbench plans out there. You could take your pic and then just add casters to it. Unless you’re looking for something special that would differentiate it from a mobile vs stationary.

Not sure where the pegboard would go, down low / on the sides? You wouldn’t really have that high of a back on a mobile version, would you?
 
Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Intrinsic said:
Tons of workbench plans out there. You could take your pic and then just add casters to it. Unless you’re looking for something special that would differentiate it from a mobile vs stationary.

Not sure where the pegboard would go, down low / on the sides? You wouldn’t really have that high of a back on a mobile version, would you?
Click to expand...
That's what prompted the question. I DO want to mount it to something like a 2ft by 4ft workbench with casters, but only so I can (carefully) move it on occasion. It wouldn't be a regular thing. I know it would be unstable as shit if not up against a wall. And these are the casters that I'm using, so it'd be sitting on the 4x4 most of the time.

Screenshot_20231105-073725.png

The first workbench I made when I bought the house is a 4x8 and I mounted these to it last night. Works fine, but I also don't have it loaded up with lumber right now like I normally do.
 
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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

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Bandwagon said:
The rolling lumber cart I made taught me that the stuff I "improv" sucks compared to what I make off plans.
Click to expand...

I have done the same thing many times. It seems like such a good idea in your head but then you realize "Oh, I guess if this actually worked well someone else would have done it by now."
 
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Goatface

Goatface

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Bandwagon said:
That's what prompted the question. I DO want to mount it to something like a 2ft by 4ft workbench with casters, but only so I can (carefully) move it on occasion. It wouldn't be a regular thing. I know it would be unstable as shit if not up against a wall.
Click to expand...

1699199988224.png

if you extend the legs up to hold the pegboard, should be pretty stable

myoutdoorplans.com

How to build a work bench | MyOutdoorPlans

This step by step diy woodworking project is about how to build a work bench. If you have a workshop or a garage, then you probably know how important is to have a work bench and how much added value it will bring to your projects.
myoutdoorplans.com myoutdoorplans.com

1699200379399.png


=
guess you latch it to the wall to lock it in place if not moving it often
 
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whoo

whoo

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I don't want to be Debbie downie, here (derp.) but mounting tool storage to a mobile bench is a bad idea in general and here are some specific things to consider :

1. Do you plan to hammer or do anything else that will jar or vibrate the bench? Stuff may just fall off your pegboard. Some tools (chisels) damage easily and are a pain to fix.

2. The great thing about mobile benches is flexibility. Having anything attached above the top will limit the size and shape of things you can put on it.

You're better off with drawers under a very sturdy bench if you have nowhere else for your tools.

Tons of workbench videos out there.
 
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Goatface

Goatface

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might be the most impressive bucket i have seen, aside from carved stuff
 
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Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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I started planning the walnut legs for the table im working on today. I just realized it's kind of a trapezoid and that the planer isn't going to fix that. Never really thought of that before.

What's the fix for this? Square it up in the table saw first?

PXL_20231118_200042023.jpg
 
C

Captain Suave

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Bandwagon said:
I started planning the walnut legs for the table im working on today. I just realized it's kind of a trapezoid and that the planer isn't going to fix that. Never really thought of that before.

What's the fix for this? Square it up in the table saw first?

View attachment 500917
Click to expand...

Proper tool for the job is a jointer (also doable with a hand plane). A table saw might work if you are very sure that your piece is not twisted in addition to being out of square. Subtle twists can survive a planer and still be bad enough to encourage kickback on the saw. Be mindful if you try it.

Edit: You could also use sleds on the planer or saw, wedging the underside on the planer to create a pseudo level reference surface or using a tapering jig in reverse for the saw.
 
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mkopec

mkopec

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IF there is a twist you can also do this with a router and a jig along with shimming the twist out of piece of wood. Or use a flat board shim it and run through planer.Then you have one side flat. To get other side flat is run it through a thickness planer. Then using one of the flat sides you do the tablesaw to get first square side, then the other.

 
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C

Captain Suave

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Bandwagon said:
Halp.

How do I square this up? 26x26x3.25in. too thick for the table saw and CNC.

View attachment 501787
Click to expand...

A bunch of options:

- Jointer

- Longer bit on CNC, shallow/thin passes

- Mark a straight line, rip cut with a hand saw, square with a plane. Or just a plane.

- Put it on a jointing sled (requires making one, obviously), cut as much as you can with the table saw, finish the cut by hand, trim the remainder with hand plane, chisel, flush trim bit on a router, or very carefully with a sander. If your saw is limited to a standard 3 1/8 max cut you're only dealing with an extra 1/8 (plus sled height) so you can't go too far wrong.
 
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Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Thanks. Longer bit isn't an option on the CNC because if it's long enough to cut through, it's too long to clear the stock in the first place. And I didn't think I could flip the piece accurately.

Your other ideas kinda confirmed a few of mine. I was thinking cut 2in deep with the CNC, hand cut the rest and use a flush trim but to clean it up. Either that or head to the wood shop for the jointer like you suggested
 
whoo

whoo

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Bandwagon said:
Thanks. Longer bit isn't an option on the CNC because if it's long enough to cut through, it's too long to clear the stock in the first place. And I didn't think I could flip the piece accurately.

Your other ideas kinda confirmed a few of mine. I was thinking cut 2in deep with the CNC, hand cut the rest and use a flush trim but to clean it up. Either that or head to the wood shop for the jointer like you suggested
Click to expand...

Any millwork shop or hardwood supplier has the tools and would do this for you (for a fee). If you want it perfectly square and flat, its a good option. In my somewhat limited experience, the fees are $50-100 range.

If you just want an excuse for a jointer, go for it! You should buy the one with the helical carbide cutter head :)
 
Cutlery

Cutlery

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Now, I know I have pieces that are 2.5" thick on one end and 1.5 thick on the other, thanks to the inaccuracies of a chainsaw mill, but goddamn is is it disheartening turning this much material into sawdust. I might cut some slabs in half so I can get 2 nightstand table tops out of each, just with varying thicknesses. They won't be in the same rooms (or eventually the same house) anyway.
IMG_20231126_152047457.jpg
 
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Cutlery

Cutlery

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I thought chainsawing this shit was grueling. This is exhausting. I've got a 2 inch surfacing bit on a top of the line Bosch router, but you can only cut 1/4" deep and maybe take 3/4" passes before the bit bogs down in this stuff, so it's an absolute slog doing a slab when you've gotta remove that much material.

One side of the first big slab done though. This piece is about 2' by 4'.
IMG_20231126_193627957.jpg
 
Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Cutlery said:
I thought chainsawing this shit was grueling. This is exhausting. I've got a 2 inch surfacing bit on a top of the line Bosch router, but you can only cut 1/4" deep and maybe take 3/4" passes before the bit bogs down in this stuff, so it's an absolute slog doing a slab when you've gotta remove that much material.

One side of the first big slab done though. This piece is about 2' by 4'.View attachment 502075
Click to expand...
I don't know if this is relevant, but I stopped using the surfacing bit on the CNC for the same reason. Now I just use a 1/4in endmill to take away most of the material. For the final 0.1in, I either use the surface bit or a 2in sanding disc. The surfacing bits suck for taking away a lot of material. Way faster with the endmill, then finish off with the surfacing bit.
 
Cutlery

Cutlery

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Bandwagon said:
I don't know if this is relevant, but I stopped using the surfacing bit on the CNC for the same reason. Now I just use a 1/4in endmill to take away most of the material. For the final 0.1in, I either use the surface bit or a 2in sanding disc. The surfacing bits suck for taking away a lot of material. Way faster with the endmill, then finish off with the surfacing bit.
Click to expand...

Huh, don't have a CNC. Can you use those bits in routers?
 
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