I'm setting up a new Windows 11 PC and I cannot get my router attached storage to mount as a network drive.
Oddly typing the address in as a run command works perfectly '\\readyshare'
but it will not connect when I type it in the map network drive. It's throwing up a generic network error code.
I've attached a pic of the screen. Window on the left is me typing straight in the run command, and I confirmed it is actually working (streamed a video)
Right side is the map screen.
If anyone has an idea , I am all ears. I gave up for the night before I take my all purpose toaster fixing sledge hammer to it.
So I should have known that the Memory going bad was a sign of something deeper. Today, when I start the PC, all the LED's come on - but I get no display what so ever. I reseated the memory, trying every single slot, individually, with just a single stick of ram - no change. I took off the 4090 completely, and just tried to use onboard video - nothing. No display output on that avenue, either. I have a blinking orange light, that is supposed to mean a DRAM issue? Also, when the PC shuts off, Im unsure of it - but I never noticed it before - but there there is a red light on the 4090 that blinks twice when it shuts down and thats.. supposed to be related to unstable power?
With the build so new, I have absolutely nothing to test bench any of this stuff with. Im about to sacrifice my ego to the Gods and take it to a computer repair place.
PCPartPicker Part List
CPU: Intel Core i9-13900K 3 GHz 24-Core Processor ($493.65 @ Amazon)
CPU Cooler: Deepcool LT720 85.85 CFM Liquid CPU Cooler ($106.24 @ Amazon)
Motherboard: Gigabyte Z790 AORUS ELITE AX ATX LGA1700 Motherboard ($219.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($109.99 @ Newegg)
Memory: G.Skill Ripjaws S5 32 GB (2 x 16 GB) DDR5-6000 CL30 Memory ($104.99 @ Amazon)
Storage: Samsung 990 Pro 4 TB M.2-2280 PCIe 4.0 X4 NVME Solid State Drive ($308.00 @ Amazon)
Video Card: Asus ROG STRIX GAMING OC GeForce RTX 4090 24 GB Video Card ($1979.99 @ B&H)
Case: Lian Li O11 Vision ATX Mid Tower Case ($129.99 @ B&H)
Power Supply: Corsair RM1000e (2023) 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply ($159.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 61.3 CFM 120 mm Fan ($29.99 @ Amazon)
Case Fan: Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 61.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($84.00 @ iBUYPOWER)
Case Fan: Lian Li Uni Fan SL-Infinity 61.3 CFM 120 mm Fans 3-Pack ($84.00 @ iBUYPOWER)
Total: $3810.82
Prices include shipping, taxes, and discounts when available
Generated by PCPartPicker 2024-05-16 14:00 EDT-0400
They already got back to me. The brand new ram, which was an identical copy of the memory I shipped off for the RMA - is bad. They put new Ram in and it starts fine. I just went and picked it up, he like immediately found the problem. Amazon sent the ram to me in a bag, and .. for what its worth, it started right up so I never paid more attention to it. But the Ram has a dent across both sticks in the same spot that I didnt even notice. Almost as if ...Just make sure you very specifically spell out your components and ask them if they can bench test those components. I recently went through this and did take it to a shop, because like you, I didn't have spare compatible components to test with.
Well after days of back and forth with them they finally admitted the components were too "new" so they couldn't properly isolate anything.
At the end of the day I just did "bare bones" testing by removing everything, even testing with on board gpu until I narrowed it down to either the MB or CPU. I had to reorder the same exact ones again from Amazon and it turned out to be the CPU (Intel i5 13600k). I packaged up the new mobo and just sent it back (thanks Amazon!) And did a refund RMA with the bad cpu.
The whole ordeal took like a month and a half from troubleshooting to fully fixed and refunded.
Dont think I'll be building anymore custom PCs after having done it for the past ~20 years.
Thanks for the reply, that's one I didn't try but I just checked and that is not configured on the PC I'm on now and it connected to the same network drive just fine.
That sucks bro. Only had G.Skill go bad one time and that was 2-3 years after I built the PC. This was a way back so it was overclocked like hell. Not sure if that made it bad or not but G.Skill had a lifetime warranty and replaced it w/o issue.They already got back to me. The brand new ram, which was an identical copy of the memory I shipped off for the RMA - is bad. They put new Ram in and it starts fine. I just went and picked it up, he like immediately found the problem. Amazon sent the ram to me in a bag, and .. for what its worth, it started right up so I never paid more attention to it. But the Ram has a dent across both sticks in the same spot that I didnt even notice. Almost as if ...
Just having really shitty luck with Ram lately. ffs.
Dropping it off at Kohl's and getting a credit to my Amazon account. I guess thats something. I only wish I could spend it on Newegg instead and get it shipped in a fkn box. lol Ill just get my supplements with the credit, I guess.That sucks bro. Only had G.Skill go bad one time and that was 2-3 years after I built the PC. This was a way back so it was overclocked like hell. Not sure if that made it bad or not but G.Skill had a lifetime warranty and replaced it w/o issue.
yea bad shit just happens, i bought a wd 850x for my ps5 and it didn't recognize for shitDropping it off at Kohl's and getting a credit to my Amazon account. I guess thats something. I only wish I could spend it on Newegg instead and get it shipped in a fkn box. lol Ill just get my supplements with the credit, I guess.
Usually that's a CTRL + Middle click. Make sure your CTRL button isn't stuck.This is the weird fucking scroll you get when you click the mouse wheel and you're not on a link or a place where the middle click is defined.
It's always been just from pressing the scroll wheel. But I checked that the control button wasn't stuck by pressing alt and del at the same time. Nothing happened.Usually that's a CTRL + Middle click. Make sure your CTRL button isn't stuck.
Weird maybe i changed the Windows 10 shortcut for it somehow cause it annoyed me in the past. "Auto scrolling" is the official name for itIt's always been just from pressing the scroll wheel. But I checked that the control button wasn't stuck by pressing alt and del at the same time. Nothing happened.
This is the weird fucking scroll you get when you click the mouse wheel and you're not on a link or a place where the middle click is defined. I have 2 questions.
1. What the fuck is this called?
2. How the fuck do I disable it?
I don't like scrolling this way. I never have. It only shows up when I'm scrolling with the wheel and accidentally push it. I'm currently on windows 11 but this fucking thing has been irritating me with all versions of windows for as long as I've had mice with scroll wheels.
It's really hard to get a screenshot of this abomination. I had to take a picture with my camera.
View attachment 533373
I loaded it and when I run it, it just tells me "No supported device detected." Maybe it works for non MS devices, but I guess you have to have a MS mouse to start with.Mouse and Keyboard Center download - Microsoft Support
Information on how to download the Microsoft Mouse & Keyboard Center.support.microsoft.com
You can set middle-click control with this. It says MS products but internet says it works for others.
bleh.I loaded it and when I run it, it just tells me "No supported device detected." Maybe it works for non MS devices, but I guess you have to have a MS mouse to start with.