Desktop Computers

The ram is 4 sticks, 8 gigs each. I bought them on Amazon on March 8th, 2013. It was $98.95 for 2 sticks. So $197.90 for all of it.

PM me a price that you'd be willing to pay.

Here are the same sticks today.
Amazon.com: Corsair Vengeance 16GB (2x8GB) DDR3 1600 MHz (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory 1.5V: Computers & Accessories

Xarpolis said:

Yes, it's definitely either the mobo or CPU.

I ordered an i5-7600K with an Asus Z270-A mobo. Also 16 gigs of DDR4 3200 ram. I might have to get a different water cooler. I'll see how the one I currently have lines up with the new board once it comes in.

$534.97 for everything. Not terrible.

The down side is I now need to sell 32 gigs of DDR3 1600 ram. Maybe I'll throw it up on craigslist.

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The chances of it being the CPU are pretty slim unless you've had it overlclocked with obscene voltages 24x7 since you bought it. If it's not the power supply, it's probably the motherboard.

Flipmode said:

The chances of it being the CPU are pretty slim unless you've had it overlclocked with obscene voltages 24x7 since you bought it. If it's not the power supply, it's probably the motherboard.

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This. CPU failure is almost unheard of these days.

I did have it OC'd, but not by obscene voltages. I took it up to 4.5 ghz instead of the standard 3.8ghz. To be honest, I'm not even sure if it worked. I never noticed a difference. Then I just kind of "forgot" to revert it back to normal.

Oh well.

Xarpolis said:

I did have it OC'd, but not by obscene voltages. I took it up to 4.5 ghz instead of the standard 3.8ghz. To be honest, I'm not even sure if it worked. I never noticed a difference. Then I just kind of "forgot" to revert it back to normal.

Oh well.

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That is not bad at all. But as I stated above, its probably not your CPU. If you have PSU tester, test that first. Otherwise I'd suspect the mobo.

I'd suspect Mobo of PSU as well

Speaking of OCing , what can I safely OC my 6700k to on a hyper 212 with a good case airflow?

I bought it meaning to invest in water-cooling but might wait til the next build for that.

So I was visiting my parents and there was some stuff in the garage from my younger brother that he'd discarded (apparently upgraded from), included was a nice 24'' Acer monitor which he no longer wanted (now it's a second display on my desk) , and clean nice looking razer naga something mouse. Now I stopped playing video games very seriously some years ago, and it's probably a slightly more complicated device than what I need, but I was like, this thing looks pretty cool. Took it home, plugged it in and...now I see why it was discarded.

a_skeleton_03 said:

You don't need to install the Razer drivers at all for it to work just fine.

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To modify the settings on the driver you seem to. It works without it sure, but isn't the point of this type of device to customize it?





Anyway not the end of the world.

I have a question regarding Windows installs, it's been a long time dealing with non OEM installs.

My parents have a Dell laptop, it's actually pretty decent (I should know I speced it out some years ago).

My Mom was recently complaining of the speed, beside all the BS bloatware on the machine, the main culprit beyond it's slothfulness is an old HDD.

I feel like it's time I upgrade them to a proper SSD, which is by itself a simple enough process, however back from my IT support days I remember the difficulty in trying to transfer a License from a non OEM install like Dell as being a giant PITA.

I don't want to clone an image and transfer it HDD to SSD, just a clean install.

Is it still a great deal of fuckery to do this, do I need a specific volume disc to do it, will any Windows disc work?

They originally had Vista on the machine, but it was upgraded to 10.

If they still have the discs that originally came with the laptop, install Vista that way. The Dell disks don't require you put in the license because it's embedded into the disc. Then upgrade to Windows 10 after the install is complete. It's extra steps, but it will work.

It seems as though he already has. At least that's what his previous comment lead me to believe.
Specifically this part:

Voyce said:

They originally had Vista on the machine, but it was upgraded to 10.

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Anyway, further expanding upon my above post, I do not believe that changing the hard drive will affect the windows installation. Not the way video card, CPU or Mobo would, at least. You "should" be fine. At the very least, you can just try. If it doesn't work, throw the old HDD in and it'll still work as it did previously.

Big Phoenix said:

Id just buy a 280mm AIO and slap some high static pressure fans on them. Custom loop would only be slightly better but cost 3-5x as much and significantly more complex.

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Yeah I might check that out

Still , any idea on safe overclocks/ If not i'll just keep pushing it til it stops booting

Noodleface said:

Yeah I might check that out

Still , any idea on safe overclocks/ If not i'll just keep pushing it til it stops booting

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Successful boot does not mean stable. Genuine question: are you new to overclocking? You need to run some stress tests to make sure you are fully stable or you could find yourself crashing / rebooting due to instability under load.

New to doing it on my home rig. That was a very simplified expression I used

Did we know this already?

AMD Ryzen 7 1700X Processor Tested And Pictured - Blows Away Intel's $1000 Core i7-5960X

This is the first time in over a decade (or maybe ever) I've kept up with the release info for a new processor line.

I'm really interested to see how the Ryzen 3 chips perform for gaming builds, especially for those of us who don't care about top of the line gaming any longer and just want to upgrade from half-decade old (or older) parts. I could see the Ryzen 3 + GTX 1070 being a very powerful budget build.