Home Improvement

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Oblio

Utah
<Gold Donor>
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I mentioned awhile back I am buying a home built in 1977 that is all original. We have rented the home since August of last year and are set to close next Monday. I have the immediate needs all covered as far as new furnace and ac, roof and paint. After those items the biggest need is re-configuring the upstairs bathrooms, our Master Bath is tiny; basically a shower, toilet and a sink with no counter space. On the other side of the wall my kid's bathroom has tons of wasted space and we even have room to build out into the breakfast nook if we wanted to.

Can anyone suggest a free or cheap user friendly CAD Software? I would like to map a few ideas I have and it would be really nice to use a software program that will allow for viewing from multiple angles.
 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
46,660
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Yeah, I've been tiling for years, and I still shy away from tiling a shower. I always make space to put a 1 piece unit in (often have removed doors to make this possible). Those beasts won't leak for thirty years. Tiling I have done myself? Probably be okay, and I've helped friends do it, but I'd rather use tile as an accent or a floor than make it functional in bathroom fixtures.
 

Oblio

Utah
<Gold Donor>
11,715
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General question here. I own a 3 bedroom brick ranch that I bought about 7 years ago. The house is in great shape but is dated as hell (bathroom is pink to give you an idea). I am at the point now where I am making enough money to think about doing some updates. I have always wanted to do some home remodeling but aside from a few smaller projects haven't had a lot of experience. The decision I face now is whether to do alot of the work myself or pay someone to do it for me. Obviously the professional approach is going to get the best results but is it possible to achieve close to professional results without alot of experience if I took my time? I am in no real hurry as I plan on staying in this house for the forseeable future and I am single so I won't have a wife or kids nagging me to finish up the project. I guess I am a little intimidated since I am a remodeling newbie and want a quality result, but would also like to save some money and learn some new skills at the same time. I just don't want to fuck things up too badly. Are there certain tasks as a newbie I should avoid (tilework, plumbing, electrical, woodfloor refinishing etc).
I told myself if I end up doing the work on my bathroom myself I would either hire a tile guy or use a product likeWetwallin place of tiles.
 

Noble Savage

Kang of Kangz
<Bronze Donator>
2,455
8,825
Can anyone suggest a free or cheap user friendly CAD Software? I would like to map a few ideas I have and it would be really nice to use a software program that will allow for viewing from multiple angles.
Google Sketchupis probably the best free CAD software out there. Alot of folks use it for the exact purpose you are describing. Has alot of pre-made assets and textures in their "wharehouse" so a pretty good tool for being free.
 

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
25,463
33,218
Pad of graph paper. I have been a designer using AutoCad for 25 years and still use it daily. I would rather sit down with a pad of graph paper and throw ideas around than sit down and start from zero in a cad package. Once you get the rough idea down then throw into a cad package to work out the details.
 

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
25,463
33,218
Moving a toilet would be bad/difficult. Followed by moving the controls for the shower/tub which would require either gutting the wall on that side or cutting an access from the rear on the other side. Depending on how old the valves are in the wall already. Lots of times on older stuff they wind up cutting the line and installing a new one because they are corroded or in the case of the last house I owned, you couldn't get the key/tool to fit that style anymore.
 

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
25,463
33,218
Well if it's on a slab that's a big issue right there, putting in a new drain. If it's over floor joist that is an issue if you have to go perpindulcar to them and make cuts for the drain. Either way not good.
 

Oblio

Utah
<Gold Donor>
11,715
25,624
One thing working in my favor if I expand the bathroom into the breakfast nook is that area is right over an unfinished mud room in the basement. Working on the plumbing from underneath in a room where I give two shits about the aesthetics is a nice luxury to have.

The mud room is roughly 350 sqft and houses our furnace, washer and drier. I really think it will be easier than most toilet moves, at least I hope so :p
 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
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Pfft. Moving a toilet is not that big a deal. You just have to make sure you can structurally support it while you have enough slope on the plumbing that empties into a large stack that is adequately vented.

Simple.
 

Palum

what Suineg set it to
26,556
41,371
Moving toilets is more obnoxious than it is impossible especially on a slab. I would only ever attempt it with a serious remodel not just 'I want a new color and the toilet should move 4" over'.
 

Draegan_sl

2 Minutes Hate
10,034
3
I'll have to redo my upstairs bathroom at point in the next 5 years. Not looking forward to that. Too many projects until then though.

So much shitty tile in my existing bathroom.
 

lurkingdirk

AssHat Taint
<Medals Crew>
46,660
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I have one bathroom to go in my house. The tile is all functioning perfectly, but it is a crappy 1980s Miami Vice style renovation done in the 80s. Ugly as sin, but totally functional, so I have it on the back burner until most everything else is done. I have it worked out how I can get a 1 piece shower into the second story sliding door, and I'll take the bathroom door apart. Also needs a new jet tub, but that's just expensive, not hard. The good news is that I don't have to relocate anything, just replace every fricking square inch.
 

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
OK Home improvement bros, here is my plan for my wooden platform to build a 8x10 plastic shed on top. Tell me what I've fucked up before I build this

ybR5IMD.png


The 2x6 boards will be the bottom level of support, supported by handi-block concrete blocks as seen here:
Shop Handi-Block 4 x 4 Handi-Block at Lowes.com

The 2x6 boards will be 8 feet long , with each of the end concrete supports being 1-foot in from the end, and the middle one centered(leaving a 3-foot span between concrete blocks, according to the handi-block manufacturer specifications, the blocks need to be no more than 5 feet apart when supporting a deck/shed type structure, so I'm within their specifications, and support beams can overhang by 1 foot, so good there too)

Then I will be laying basically a floor frame on top made of 10-foot long 2x4s, spaced no more than 16" apart, and overhanging at the top and bottom by 1 foot. I want this 1 foot excess all around to "hide" the concrete blocks a little better(I may put up lattice or some sort of flashing at some point around the bottom)

I'm trying to minimize the amount of concrete blocks, as they are the most expensive component by far, thats why I just didn't plan on a simple frame made out of 2x4s with blocks on every board...that would cost a fortune

Am I alright to just screw everything together with weather-proof wood screws? Do I need L-brackets/supports anywhere?

I'll be putting 1/2 inch plywood across the entire top once the framing is done, to form the floor for the shed. This shed won't have anything super heavy in it, no riding lawnmower or anything, just a push mower, weedeater, garden tools, pressure washer, etc.
 

Draegan_sl

2 Minutes Hate
10,034
3
That's all well and good, but what are you doing to make sure the ground doesn't wash out or become unstable? All that design makes no difference if the ground underneath starts to shift.
 

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
No idea really. The ground there is pretty compacted already, as it had a 10x12 shed sitting on it for 20+ years(tore it down last summer, was rotting pretty bad), and the ground is naturally pretty level already (probably slopes about 1 inch over the 10 foot span from left to right).

But honestly, I don't have a plan for that? should I? That's why I'm asking if there's a major flaw to this plan before I start, lol.
 

mkopec

<Gold Donor>
26,236
39,960
The way to level those stones and make them more stable is dig down some, maybe 6 in about twice the width and length of the concrete blocks. Then add some type of aggregate in the hole and use that as a base for the concrete blocks, it also helps you level them. And trust me, that thing is not going anywhere. It might shift a bit with the natural freeze and thaw cycles, but it will not go anywhere. Shit, bro, they use those things to build decks upon.
 

Joeboo

Molten Core Raider
8,157
140
I definitely planned on digging some of then in to level the platform, but I could dig them ALL in several inches if that would make a big difference in overall support.

I was basically going to leave the low side sitting on the ground as-is, and dig in the high-side to make it level, but I could dig them all a bit, it isn't a ton of extra work.