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Picasso3

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it's low voltage


made some progress on laying out the basement. Hardest part is going to be plumbing and figuring out how to frame out the ceiling. Most of it is about 10' but there are some ducts and 2 beams that need dealt with. Dropping it all 8 ft would be the easiest but I may figure out a few spaces I can save 10' and use drywall.

Looking like prob be about $14k in material, kinda surprised it's that much to finish out 800 sq ft.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Picasso_sl said:
it's low voltage
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Mind you, I don't really care, I just like busting your chops. But if that's UF cable feeding low voltage lighting (?), art 411 still requires it to follow wiring methods from 300 even if it is low voltage, and the heavier insulated type direct burial UF. Same with wall penetrations, and that romex for the furnace...but whatevs, maybe I'll go oppress Tanoomba or something
 
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Picasso3

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It's fine with me, i certainly try to know and enjoy knowing what is code although sometimes I use my engineers discretion to say fuck it. The one coming out of the bottom is 14 2 going to an outdoor temperature sensor and coming into the humidistat is 24 volt.

The original install has what looks like 4 6-2 lines that run down the wall to the furnace and heat pumps unprotected. If the code requires conduit all the way into the furnace I can safely say there is no house in wv that meets code. I think you're more concerned with the lines on the wall than with those pertinent to my flawless humidifier installation.
 
Harfle

Harfle

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Picasso_sl said:
it's low voltage


made some progress on laying out the basement. Hardest part is going to be plumbing and figuring out how to frame out the ceiling. Most of it is about 10' but there are some ducts and 2 beams that need dealt with. Dropping it all 8 ft would be the easiest but I may figure out a few spaces I can save 10' and use drywall.

Looking like prob be about $14k in material, kinda surprised it's that much to finish out 800 sq ft.
Click to expand...
6% sales tax must be nice.
 
Adebisi

Adebisi

Clump of Cells
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Kids decided to recreate waterworld during bathtime last night. Must've drained some into the air vent.

The droop there is about 5 inches diameter, and there's a line of wet which appears to be along the edges of the drywall.

rrr_img_125530.jpg


wut do?
 
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Picasso3

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Cut out a square section of the damaged shit and replace with new. I can see tape in that i think so you're on a joist. You can either go 16 inches in either direction and replace a 32 inch section or cut out smaller and put a screw piece behind the drywall to attach. Then finish the drywall and paint it. Should take 5 to 7 minutes, tops.
 
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Picasso3

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You may hang out for a little bit and see how far the water stains go to make sure you get it all
 
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Picasso3

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Getting close. Ceiling figured out so that I'll save a lot of 10ft and only use drop ceiling in the back tv area. Also I'll be able to wall off along that beam and make a bedroom in the future pretty easily. Got wife pretty moist thinking about having an au pair down there.

Put up about 3 ft of wall last night, scheduled completion match 2017.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Picasso_sl said:
The original install has what looks like 4 6-2 lines that run down the wall to the furnace and heat pumps unprotected. If the code requires conduit all the way into the furnace I can safely say there is no house in wv that meets code. I think you're more concerned with the lines on the wall than with those pertinent to my flawless humidifier installation.
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As long as a building doesn't need a permit or it isn't being sold, they'll normally let the old stuff go. If it isn't an immediate hazard and you aren't needing an inspection for a permit, it's a non-issue. No one will pester you about code unless it's either on here and I'm bored, you go to sell your house and an inspector notes it as something to be fixed before the sale, or for some reason you need a permit and it has to be inspected. Even with dangerous stuff like knob and tube wiring or Zinsco/Bulldog/FedPac/Pushmatic panels, you can tell a homeowner how dangerous that stuff it, but you can't force a person to replace that stuff (at least until you need a permit/inspection or the wiring is exposed).

A buddy of mine bought a house on the cheap a while back and it's all knob and tube. The biggest issue he had was trying to insure it, and when the insurance inspector came out they had a fit over the wiring. His options were to strip all the interior walls of plaster and lathe and redo the house from scratch, or to try fishing new wires everywhere and deleting/capping off the old knob and tube. He chose the latter approach.

Would I have put your low voltage in conduit had I installed it? Most likely. Would an HVAC person have done so if they had installed that low voltage? I honestly don't know. But seriously, when I still did residential I ran everything on basement walls in conduit more out of habit than because I was reading up on the NEC. It was just easier to do the conduit in the first place, even if it wasn't necessary, than to get called back to fix something later.
 
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Picasso3

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It kinda surprises me if it's that clear cut in the code they didn't do it. This house was built in 2012 so it's a far cry from the 50s dilapidated shitholes with I'm usually tinkering with..
 
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Picasso3

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Framed out the closet and tv area last night. The 50" height to center looks low but it's recommended and I think it'll be comfortable to watch from a couch. Going to recess it with a pull out and rotate mount so i can angle it towards the rest of the room if necessary.
 
Palum

Palum

what Suineg set it to
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So regional variation blah blah but does anyone know what I should be looking at for a price for a specific tree issue?

I have a 20-25' bottle tree next to a slab driveway. The roots are now lifting the slabs so it will have to come out at some point. I really need 3 things done:

1) cut down and remove tree
2) grind out and remove stump
3) jack up slab and remove main root and reset

I don't even know if number 3 is doable, it looks like it might be though. It's a full 6", only really surface cracks right now, it's just starting to heave the entire thing.

I'm seeing some 'guesstimate' quotes at outrageous prices for just 1 and 2.
 
LachiusTZ

LachiusTZ

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Cost me right at 1075$ per tree to have 60ft pines brought down and the stumps ground.
 
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Picasso3

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Number 3 may best be done with a cumalong or heavy equip with the stump in tract and some grout or foam. Remove what comes with stump then put something flowable back
 
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Picasso3

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Erronius if you were planning circuits for the basement laid out above how many would you run? I have 2 20 amps for ex outlets, lighting on a 15, a spare 15, and a 20 amp in the concrete room to 3 work bench outlets.
 
Joeboo

Joeboo

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Tree removal costs vary WILDLY from region to region.

I'm in Missouri and had a ~25 foot pine tree removed from my yard that was half dead and it cost me around $800(no stump removal for that price, I left the stump, mainly just removed it so the dead tree wouldn't fall on my house)

My uncle down in rural Georgia bought a new house and had half a dozen 30+ foot trees removed from his back yard and it cost him like $500 total. It seemed ridiculously cheap. And this wasn't any sort of friend pricing, he was new to the area and just called the first name he saw in the phonebook under tree removal.

My mother had to get a probably 40-50ft tall oak tree removed from her yard about 10 years ago, cost her $3000.

Prices are just all over the place.
 
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