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Borzak

Borzak

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That's because they likely hauled them to the papermill or sawmill. In the south you can get logs hauled off for next to nothing by pulpwood haulers or someone haul to the peckerwood mill. If you had a dozen trees or so you could likely make money.

Some of the pulpwood guys haul in nothing more than an old flatbed truck.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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joeboo_sl said:
Tree removal costs vary WILDLY from region to region.

I'm in Missouri and had a ~25 foot pine tree removed from my yard that was half dead and it cost me around $800(no stump removal for that price, I left the stump, mainly just removed it so the dead tree wouldn't fall on my house)

My uncle down in rural Georgia bought a new house and had half a dozen 30+ foot trees removed from his back yard and it cost him like $500 total. It seemed ridiculously cheap. And this wasn't any sort of friend pricing, he was new to the area and just called the first name he saw in the phonebook under tree removal.

My mother had to get a probably 40-50ft tall oak tree removed from her yard about 10 years ago, cost her $3000.

Prices are just all over the place.
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Shoulda called Lyrical!
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Picasso_sl said:
Erronius if you were planning circuits for the basement laid out above how many would you run? I have 2 20 amps for ex outlets, lighting on a 15, a spare 15, and a 20 amp in the concrete room to 3 work bench outlets.
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Electric dryer/30A?
How hardcore are you going for the entertainment center? I've installed a dedicated 20A with a quad outlet (2 gang) before, but that depends on what you're putting in there.
210.11(2) makes you run a dedicated 20A receptacle circuit to laundry rooms now. You can have multiple outlets on that circuit within the laundry room, but it cannot feed anything else outside the laundry room. 406.9(C) will allow you to put an outlet near the shower, as long as it it isn't inside the shower's footprint or above it.
210.11(3) covers bathroom receptacle circuits. They must be 20A, cannot be used for anything but bathrooms.
I don't know why you want 2 circuits for exterior outlets unless you either don't want to run in between them both (less wire) or you're anticipating a lot of use and/or are planning on tying the unfinished outlets to one, with a high load (work bench?)
No sump pump?


I'm probably forgetting something.

So what is your opinion on this? One source I read said they think those cans were used as fillers around beams where we might use styrofoam, but I dunno. Also that beam right above them in the pic....dat rust


30F64B2400000578-3435755-image-m-88_1454860237393.jpg
 
Convo

Convo

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Anyone have a good guide for wiring a room? Can't seem to find anything good on YouTube. It doesn't look hard but I've never ran wire thru studs for electrical outlets. I'm using metal studs and will probably add 6 boxes around the room to wire for outlets.
 
Erronius

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Metal studs suck dick. If you're running romex through metal studs, they want you to use bushing/grommets so you don't slice the romex all to shit. I'd consider using MC cable myself. I prefer using a stud punch to put holes in the studs where you want them, and then install bushings if you're using romex. You can try using the premade stamped holes in metal studs, but you can't always be sure that they'll line up unless you install the studs yourself and plan it out beforehand. If you use MC you can dispense with the grommets, but then you have to look at the MC itself and try to see which way the "weave" on the jacket faces. Some manufacturers make MC that will pull through metal studs easy in both directions, while other manufacturers use a weave that will catch BADLY in one direction but will let you pull it through easy in the other (this is easier to show people in person I guess).

I'm not sure about an all-encompassing guide for wiring a room.

EDIT: I just tried watching a few videos on Youtube thinking I could find one to post, but they made me cringe.
 
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Picasso3

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Ex meant existing outlet. They have 2 on separate breakers already. Sucks about the dedicated laundry circuit. I'm going to have to get into the box which is drywalled in to the garage. I'd like to run another 100a sub panel for the whole basement but that's kind of Ridiculous since i have 2 200 amp panels in the garage. Sounds like I'll need a minimum of 4 20 amp circuits down there and a big dog for the dryer so there's no avoiding busting into the garage drywall and figuring out how to get that shit through the concrete floor.
 
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Picasso3

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There's a neutral axis along the centerline of a beam in between the tension (bottom) and compression (top) section that they may have been trying to maximize profits by avoiding filling. Except I'm guessing all the cans floated up to the top rebar cage when it got poured so they ended up with a beam a third as thick with the reinforcement along the resulting neutral axis which further reduces the effective beam height because concrete isn't worth dick in tension. All firing from the hip, When i first saw that i just assumed someone was hiding cocaine or something and they got hit by an earthquake.
 
Convo

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Erronius_sl said:
Metal studs suck dick. If you're running romex through metal studs, they want you to use bushing/grommets so you don't slice the romex all to shit. I'd consider using MC cable myself. I prefer using a stud punch to put holes in the studs where you want them, and then install bushings if you're using romex. You can try using the premade stamped holes in metal studs, but you can't always be sure that they'll line up unless you install the studs yourself and plan it out beforehand. If you use MC you can dispense with the grommets, but then you have to look at the MC itself and try to see which way the "weave" on the jacket faces. Some manufacturers make MC that will pull through metal studs easy in both directions, while other manufacturers use a weave that will catch BADLY in one direction but will let you pull it through easy in the other (this is easier to show people in person I guess).

I'm not sure about an all-encompassing guide for wiring a room.

EDIT: I just tried watching a few videos on Youtube thinking I could find one to post, but they made me cringe.
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Yea they are brutal. Thanks for the info. I already put the grommets in. I went with metal bc it's my basement and it felt like the safer option. I think where I'm unsure is when you pull the wire thru the outlet box and then continue on running wire until you reach the next outlet box you want to mount. I get the daisy chain part but that whole process is what I'm looking to view.
 
Erronius

Erronius

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Convo_sl said:
Yea they are brutal. Thanks for the info. I already put the grommets in. I went with metal bc it's my basement and it felt like the safer option. I think where I'm unsure is when you pull the wire thru the outlet box and then continue on running wire until you reach the next outlet box you want to mount. I get the daisy chain part but that whole process is what I'm looking to view.
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This is how a lot of people will wire a normal receptacle in residential. One romex in, one romex out. Most people try to avoid 3 romex in a box to avoid additional splices/pigtails and cubic inch box fill issues. HR on the sheathing in sharpie is for "Home Run", that will be the cable that runs back to the panel and breaker.
all-wires-out.jpg


With only 2 romex cables in a box for a receptacle, people will often wire the outlet like this:

wiring-middle-run-receptacle-step-3-lg_20151120190900_0.jpg


This way they don't need to splice/pigtail both the hot and the common/neutral. Power will feed in on one wire, travel through the brass connecting the two screws, then feed out to the other wire. Or if they don't strip and put screw loops in the wire, they'll use the push-in terminals on the back. I don't like the push-ins as they can come loose, so I've always used the scews like in the picture (though some are screw-compression but whatever).

Other people like to splice with wirenuts and run a single pigtail to each receptacle. That's probably more common in commercial with stranded wire, though, or when you have 3+ cables in a box.

FH01NOV_OUTLET_05.jpg



Dunno if this will help at all

home-design.jpg
 
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Picasso3

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outlets just remember black to gold and white to silver or ensure they match. everything is pretty straightforward until you get to 3 or 4 way switches which are witch craft.
 
Convo

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I did it. It was pretty damn easy. I added 7 outlet box to the room. I'll daisy chain it all together once I actually buy outlets. Still need to wire the ceiling for high hats. Next I need to learn how to do pex. I'm going to get rid of all copper while I have the room open.

Also. Any tips for hanging a tv before I close that area up with drywall? I ran an outlet up the wall where I plan to hang one. I was going to add coax and Ethernet wires to that area as well.
 
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Picasso3

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Add a 2x12 or similar in the area youre going to put the mount for easy attachment.

Why replace copper?
 
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Picasso3

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About 70 2x4s, 2 rolls of insulation, and 5 xps panels in. Working in new construction is glorious.
Just got most of the utility room wall up...gotta go get some more 8 footers
 
Convo

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Picasso_sl said:
Add a 2x12 or similar in the area youre going to put the mount for easy attachment.

Why replace copper?
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It's the original stuff and it's accessible now. If i leave and it leaks I'll have to rip out what I have. I know copper is copper but some of it leaked and to be replaced in that general area already.

Plus pex looks easier to work with and I need to replace some shuts offs and the hose bib.
 
Palum

Palum

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Picasso_sl said:
About 70 2x4s, 2 rolls of insulation, and 5 xps panels in. Working in new construction is glorious.
Just got most of the utility room wall up...gotta go get some more 8 footers
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Yea, I'm jealous. New construction is fun to do with the proper tools. I hate renovating anything.

OK, except 3000 square feet of 2 1/4" solid red oak plankls with a manual sledge driven nailer. That is not.
 
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Picasso3

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Have to run the vent about 30 feet horizontally to get over to the bathroom. Steel beam has me bound so if I'll probably have to run it flat for about 10ft if I want it in the wall. I could put it along the wall in the utility room but i don't wanna. I could also just put in an aav and say fuck it all.

If anyone has a preference let me know
 
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