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Big Phoenix

Big Phoenix

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But blowing cellulose into an attic in the summer here sounds like hard work. Will you come operate the hopper big p?

Looking at $200+ electric bills til september.
 
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Lenardo

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so what is that wall made up phoenix?

if a hollow core/sheetrock and wood style...put a hole in each hollow between the framing and get some polyfill to blow in...

if a solid type wall, could you stand to lose ~3 inches of room? frame a fake wall inside the wall with 2x4's glued/nailed "flat" to existing wall and put some r6.7 thin insulation between them then sheetrock/finish with maybe a radiant barrier insulation "film" placed against the old wall to keep the heat out.
 
Big Phoenix

Big Phoenix

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blogmedia-8296.jpg
 
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Lenardo

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phoenix, cinder block...

can you lose said 3" or so? (if you could lose 5. can slide in r13 insulation., you need some insulation-not to keep the heat in, but to keep the heat out. since north facing walls get the most sun...

alternatively...plantings outside to shade the wall? shade= no sun hitting wall= cooler wall.
 
Big Phoenix

Big Phoenix

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Could lose up to 5, but then that's ripping out all the dry wall.

Is it worth it to fill the 1 to 2 inches between the drywall and block with cellulose? Really thinking about picking some up this weekend to fill out the attic. The area above my room is pretty bad(not even 6 inches in some areas) and the living room ceiling is just fiberglass batts, no cellulose on top.
 
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Picasso3

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Prob not especially if you have to cut up the drywall to get it in there. Not sure how well it would flow in an inch anyway.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Dandai_sl said:
I've got a situation where my deck is level with my back door, and when it rains the water will run into/under my back door. I've never seen water on the floor in the house, but the floor is slightly softer and more springy next to the back door. Additionally, the back door is a bay window configuration and technically attached to the house as part of the deck. At some point someone identified that the joist under the back door had water damage as they put steel plates/reinforcement around it. During my original home inspection before I bought the house, the inspector said the deck should've been built 6" below the back door (and the water damage is being caused by that oversight).

My question for you guys is is there anything I can do to fix this besides rebuilding the deck and dropping it 6"? Building a deck myself is outside of my comfort zone, but spending a ton of money having a deck built probably wouldn't make a lot of sense financially as my house and neighboring houses are valued at ~130k. If I was planning on living here forever I'd be more willing to spend a lot of cash making it how I want, but I'm tentatively planning on renting this house out when we move to a bigger/different house.
Click to expand...
Here are pictures of the above situation:

Under the deck

Vj6ScUC.jpg




Under the back door/bay window kitchen floor

j4HFfK9.jpg




Back door from deck

aDUBmoF.jpg




Back door inside house

cfjF0DF.jpg
 
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Picasso3

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It looks framed well. It looks like the metal which you may be calling reinforcement is flashing that (hopefully) slides up under the siding and keeps water out. Where I'd guess isn't working is around the door, likely at the bottom corners and maybe underneath the sill. Which you may be able to combat with caulk and creating a drainage path through the deck

If that is the metal coming up through the edge of the deck in front of the siding, someone is retarded. What is that?
 
mkopec

mkopec

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Easy fix for that would be to add a new sill maybe 1/2" to 1", with weather proof caulking underneath and on the sides, then just cut the door down at the bottom to match the new sill and then add weatherstripping on bottom of door. Anyways thats what I would do in that case.

More expensive but better fix would be to get a new door thats pre hung, few hundred bucks depending on style and how nice it is. Then before adding the new door, add the 1/2 to 1" underneath the sill of the new door, maybe a board or waterproof plywood piece with lots of weather proof caulking or even some shit that they use on roofing, the self stick shit thats weatherproof. Then place the new prehung door ontop of this new piece of wood, thus raising the entire door along with the bottom sill so no more water gets in your house. You might have to modify the header above a bit.

They fucked up because the decking should never be level with the sill of the door, it should always be below it.

rrr_img_135455.gif
 
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Picasso3

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I left some of these 2x6 out for a week before I could get to them and some of them have turned into fucking spaghetti. Using no.1 which seems better than lowes/home depot no2 but it's still pretty hit and miss shit.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Sorry for the late response. In picture 2 (under the deck and door) is the black staining on the wood not water damage/rot? On the plywood it looks like it stops several inches from the exterior, but that one board is completely black and grey. A new flashing under the door would fix that?

As far as the metal coming up in front of the siding, I'm not sure. I assume it's the same flashing seen under the deck.
 
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Picasso3

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It is. I never say anything definitive about stopping water, but around the door is where I would start because the corners are tough to flash/seal.
 
Ryoz

Ryoz

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Ryoz_sl said:
rrr_img_135340.jpg


Here's what I'm dealing with. It's only on one side of the house. I realized on that side the sofit vents are completely covered by insulation. Why my inspector didn't note this when I bought the house, I'm not sure. Getting a quote to have the mold cleaned. I can buy those foam trays and put them in myself.
Click to expand...
2k to clean 1k sq ft of intermittent attic mold... fuck it. I have to go up there to install attic baffles anyway so might as well do it myself. Got some concrobium mold control and I'm ready to go.
 
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Lenardo

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just waiting on the decking then we can finalize the rebuild of my deck. contractor goofed and had to cut the addition by 6" so that the overall frame was 19'10" so we could use 20' boards, he had goofed and made it 20'4".

images pre build
rrr_img_135836.jpg

rrr_img_135837.jpg

rrr_img_135834.jpg

rrr_img_135835.jpg
as you can see the decking is in sorry shape. framing is still solid, no rot etc. stairs are in pathetic shape. i had to replace one post 7 years ago due to an excavator (about a cat7 size) hitting the post while building the massive retaining wall in my back yard (100' long ~5ish feet high- used 3'x4'x3' concrete blocks about 53 of them-wall isn't going anywhere)
progress picts

rrr_img_135833.jpg

friday the contractor will be back to demolish existing/redo the stairs & finalize the framing.
hopefully by then the decking will arrive- today is when the supplier said would be the most likely day they get the special order delivered
balusters arrive today via fedex similar to this:
72000_lifestyle_2.jpg
 
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Picasso3

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Curious to see how he does the corner posts with the bearing 6x6 taking up so much of the band at the corner.
 
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Picasso3

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Making progress on my deck as well, Ended up rolling on and doing the lower half. Moved the hot tub about 3 ft and changed the stair layout. Tedious but worth it.
 
lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

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People down the street had a pond in full sun, and it was constantly full of algae. They were getting rid of it, so I said I'd take the rock out for them. Used my tractor with front end loader and scooped up about $4,000 worth of rock, not to mention pump and filter box. We've now got everything in the yard to make a back yard water feature.

To make things even better, a house is being built across the street, so there was copious amounts of fill up for grabs. I stripped out the pond and filled it in. You wouldn't even know it was there. Now they just have to get grass to grow.

I'm fucking exhausted.
 
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