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Looks great! I would go with what you suggested, not let the eye hooks bend toward each other. Good job, though!
Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
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lurker
Vyemm Raider
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If the eyebolts were shorter they'd be less inclined to bend. Also, upper clamp is on backwards. Probably won't matter but if things start to loosen up check there first. Remember, "Don't saddle a dead horse." Job looks great, though, and using that wire really keeps the view open.Got a lot of the cable railing done. I did it differently than I did at my other place and stitched the cable through the post and used 8" eye hooks to tighten each row. It's 1 cable all the way through. I think from now on i'll do 2 rows per wire because the eye hooks can start bending towards each other when you start cranking it down.
Well the next step down on eyebolts is 6 inches and then I would lose most of the travel to tension the cable. It probably would have been wise to get a set of each and experiment because with 9 tensions I can take out a hell of a lot of slack anyway.
I'll stop being lazy on the clamps it if affects their holding power by being upside down.... it's just easier to put on that way.
I'll stop being lazy on the clamps it if affects their holding power by being upside down.... it's just easier to put on that way.
BURREN one of the latest arch styles for deck railing is the wired style, either vertically or horizontally like what lurker did. i considered it but did not go that route. it looks good.
my deck project is on pause while the damn deck boards are - apparently- backordered/out of stock ... hopefully i will get the call tomorrow that they came in (they get the deliveries from the manufacturer on Wednesdays) so i can get it delivered so we can finish it up.
got the lighting for the deck, dang is it small. (the strips) going with a 2x6 top rail so that the strip will fit- without any cuts- for most of the length- just have to put in the angle parts around the deck corner.- picked up a led control wall mount touch screen and transformer so that no wall plugs will be used necessary. -transformer i am going to mount under the deck to hide the wiring& rabbit in a channel in the post to hide the wire going to the control touch screen.)
my deck project is on pause while the damn deck boards are - apparently- backordered/out of stock ... hopefully i will get the call tomorrow that they came in (they get the deliveries from the manufacturer on Wednesdays) so i can get it delivered so we can finish it up.
got the lighting for the deck, dang is it small. (the strips) going with a 2x6 top rail so that the strip will fit- without any cuts- for most of the length- just have to put in the angle parts around the deck corner.- picked up a led control wall mount touch screen and transformer so that no wall plugs will be used necessary. -transformer i am going to mount under the deck to hide the wiring& rabbit in a channel in the post to hide the wire going to the control touch screen.)
Standard treated pickets are a maintenance pain, prone to twist and split, and block vision. This deck overlooks some very nice woods toward the back and the wire means you can look out fairly unimpeded, especially when sitting. Cable railing can be expensive, especially if you buy specialty railing fittings, but I've been using galvanized fittings from lowes and trying to be clever and the cost is probably comparable overall. 1/8th 304 stainless steel cables are 25 cents per ft so 2.25 per railing ft. Wood pickets are 1 dollar each so 3 bucks per foot.
Eyebolts are like 1.50 each, cable clamps 50 cents.
Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Ya. I really wanted to avoid threading in a ton of wood screw eyehooks (i think they were half inch diameter) it was miserable. Just threading through the post you eliminate the cables ability to slide between rows so having a tensioner on each row is a winner.
Burren
Ahn'Qiraj Raider
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That's a pretty clever way to do it. I agree, that you're going to have a much clearer view and if you're able to avoid long term maintenance and replacement, all the better. Only ever seen that sort of thing in modern architecture and commercial (resorts, spas) buildings. Often with something like clematis growing along it.
It's a definite possibility along the one side that borders a junky neighbor. But this is also a rental so I'm not doing anything that requires maintenance.
My biggest worry is how easy it is to step or jump on the wire and transmit big forces into the system, I'd like to have a spring or slow release that lets loose after hitting 500 pounds or something.... but not going into that atm
My biggest worry is how easy it is to step or jump on the wire and transmit big forces into the system, I'd like to have a spring or slow release that lets loose after hitting 500 pounds or something.... but not going into that atm
Khane
Got something right about marriage
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I actually like the look of the wires more than standard wooden posts but I think it's not to code here in CT to do it that way.
Stepping on it is certainly a concern and a kid getting his head stuck in between is another. Don't rent to a family with smaller kids P!
Stepping on it is certainly a concern and a kid getting his head stuck in between is another. Don't rent to a family with smaller kids P!
Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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We have an open space on the second floor of our school, in the floor, with a "fence" or railing around it. We all have a bad habit of standing at the railing and putting a foot up on the lower cables while we talk to people, and they're all stretched out. They could probably be re-tensioned but I don't think they ever have been. I'll try to take a pic tonight.
These are gapped about 3.75. The 4" spacing by code is due to the kids head thing. I don't particularly know how it'll play out with something semi flexible like wire, but by how easy it is to pop pickets off after a few years when they're nailed, I still think it's safer.
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Bros, I have an old (1970) 2" copper pipe. I need to move it a bit. It's a vent, so no pressure on it. Trouble is, it's 2" Outside diameter. I want to find something I can use to connect it to 2" ABS, and it's providing wicked hard to find. Anyone have a source?
Eomer
Trakanon Raider
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You just need a fernco. They come in all types of diameters, from clay to cast to copper, etc etc.
Flexible Plumbing and Drain Stock Coupling | Fernco - Canada
Flexible Plumbing and Drain Stock Coupling | Fernco - Canada
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Yeah, I've looked at those. I've got this absolutely strange pipe that I don't know if anyone has made for 40 years. I think I've got a metric fuck tonne of soldering to do...
Fernco has a little different fittings for copper transitions than what you'll find for sch40 etc. they were shielded fittings at home depot here
Eomer
Trakanon Raider
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Again, they make Fernco's to transition from one material type to another. What you've got is likely DWV Copper. It's still made, by the way. Just expensive as all fuck compared to plastics or cast iron. So you'll just need a 2" Fernco from DWV Copper to ABS. Probably this one:3001-22 Proflex Coupling | Fernco - Canada
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Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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We were going to stain+seal our decks next weekend but it looks like weather might not agree so I'm doing them this weekend. Unfortunately we had a bunch of family that was going to help but they're all away this weekend so we'll (me) be doing it ourselves.
I bought the deck cleaner stuff and I'm doing that today, then staining on saturday/sunday.
Any gotchas or things I need to look out for? I'm going to lay down the bulk of the stain with one of those "deck stain applicator" push things on a handle and then use a brush to work it in and work out and blobs/puddles.
Never stained a deck before so hoping I don't fuck it up.
Also our deck is pretty low to the ground, about 2 feet off the dirt. Do I need to stain/seal the undercarriage?
I bought the deck cleaner stuff and I'm doing that today, then staining on saturday/sunday.
Any gotchas or things I need to look out for? I'm going to lay down the bulk of the stain with one of those "deck stain applicator" push things on a handle and then use a brush to work it in and work out and blobs/puddles.
Never stained a deck before so hoping I don't fuck it up.
Also our deck is pretty low to the ground, about 2 feet off the dirt. Do I need to stain/seal the undercarriage?