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Zapatta

Zapatta

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Hatorade said:
Door is in, dry wall is up, they will finish all the rest Monday and we are done with construction.

Looked into the Murphy bed idea and came up with the solution of a hammock instead, when not in use will take up almost zero wall space.
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Those $15-20 nylon backpacking hammocks are surprisingly comfy, give me one of those and beer and I am out like a light in 10 mins. Then again I can fall asleep almost anywhere. I have the Hicks from Aliens gene.
 
Mrs. Gravy

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HVAC help - my furnace would not stop running; the thermostat was set to 68 and the temp read 75; it was set to heat and on auto. If I turned it to off, it did not matter; it kept running. This made me guess that it was the thermostat; it of course happened last night about 10 and I was in "fuck it" I am not dealing with this right now mode so I went and flipped the breaker. This morning when I awakened it was a comfy 66 degrees (no wonder I slept well) I went down and flipped the breaker; it is now staying steady at 68.
WTH? Thermostat or furnace?
 
Gravel

Gravel

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Caliane said:
Lights being on lights is normal. Outlets will have gfi's. And its possible for them being on the same circuit because of it. although I would have expect bath and kitchen outlets on one. outdoors/shed/garage possibly together on a second.

do you have a powered shed? check there for it. Garage, basement. maybe even attic. would be odd for that. Id still guess a gfi in some out of the way place, you forgot about. Behind boxes, or something.

hrm, I don't think I have a gfi in my garage... (although might be on the same circuit as my outdoor or shed one.)
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Holy shit, thank you! I didn't even consider that the garage might have one, and that it'd be on the same circuit. What an easy, super obvious fix.

Makes me feel like kind of a jackass that it's been like 3 weeks with that shit broken when all I had to do was reset a GFI I didn't know existed. At least now I know for the future.
 
Caliane

Caliane

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haha. yeah, its pretty much a "from experience", as I spend 5-15minutes every time the one in my shed pops off and I forget I have one in my shed in the back, on a socket I never use, and go check the breaker, etc.
 
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Picasso3

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Zapatta Zapatta i have to redo my stairs for new basement. Currently plywood and am planning on buying unfinished oak to replace treads and quarter inch plywood to paint white to cover risers

Should i do a white skirt board down the sides of the stairs? What's the easiest way to terminate into molding and top. It goes into a door frame up top.

Worried skill is required and i should just roll out the carpet
 
Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
Zapatta Zapatta i have to redo my stairs for new basement. Currently plywood and am planning on buying unfinished oak to replace treads and quarter inch plywood to paint white to cover risers

Should i do a white skirt board down the sides of the stairs? What's the easiest way to terminate into molding and top. It goes into a door frame up top.

Worried skill is required and i should just roll out the carpet
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Is this the man cave stairs? or a different room.? shoot a couple pics pointing tape measure at areas you are talking about , I am not on the same page with the description. Usually you set a 2x, or heavy ply than cap with finish tread. trimming can get odd with stairs because of banisters etc.

Stair run / rise calc for framing including the finish fucks a lot of experienced carpenters.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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P.S. I hate carpeted stairs, cunt to vacuum and look dirty as fuck from all the traffic over time.
 
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Picasso3

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I agree.

I cut the lower plywood treads/risers ends off to have room to add the knee wall drywall going down the stairs so that's why it looks whacky.
 
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Picasso3

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1-5/8" overhang. it's 3/4" and seems solid, it's not treated though.The riser is 3/4" thick as well i'm pretty sure.
 
Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
1-5/8" overhang. it's 3/4" and seems solid, it's not treated though.The riser is 3/4" thick as well i'm pretty sure.
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Stair framing is original? that tread / rise original?

Sucks not being able to stand there and run a yo-yo around myself.
 
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This is a typical run rise layout 8 H x10 W w/ 1inch tread nose., you usually run ply or 2x on the srtingers and cap net, with the nose in the finish. So I would either peel and clip back the current treads or redo in treated, I only use treated because termites are an issue where I build. You want to face your risers before you cap with a tread. I stack, glue and route to make bullnose threads.

P Picasso3 this kinda sucks, wish I had mic and teamspeak to walk you thru some of the finer points.
 
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Picasso3

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It's 40.2° if that helps, all the tread etc is original and i think they made the bottom one shorter.

I was planning on buying the prefab 1 piece oak treads and cutting them to fit. I think they are 1" thick.
 
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Picasso3

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for the skirting i think i will cut horizontal at the top so that it runs right under the top nosing at the door and at the bottom I will cut it vertical just past the last nosing and run baseboard all the way around and butt into the end of it.
 
iannis

iannis

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Mrs. Gravy said:
HVAC help - my furnace would not stop running; the thermostat was set to 68 and the temp read 75; it was set to heat and on auto. If I turned it to off, it did not matter; it kept running. This made me guess that it was the thermostat; it of course happened last night about 10 and I was in "fuck it" I am not dealing with this right now mode so I went and flipped the breaker. This morning when I awakened it was a comfy 66 degrees (no wonder I slept well) I went down and flipped the breaker; it is now staying steady at 68.
WTH? Thermostat or furnace?
Click to expand...

Probably thermostat.

I think I might have a gas leak. I have no idea how to even trace it if I do. I have a gas stove and water heater. As far as I know those should be the only two gas lines inside the house. The gas stove is about 20 years old -- so i'm suspicious of it.

I get that rotten egg propane smell, but it's fairly faint, and it's not all the time. Maybe it's the stove itself leaking?

So my plan right now is to pull the stove out and look at the connections. Is there even a thing I can buy to check if i'm getting good pressure INTO the stove?
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
It's 40.2° if that helps, all the tread etc is original and i think they made the bottom one shorter.

I was planning on buying the prefab 1 piece oak treads and cutting them to fit. I think they are 1" thick.
Click to expand...

Ok, so step 1

you are going to peel and clip back the current treads to net, or change them to treated. if you change them make sure to set new ply lumber crown up and use liquid nails or some other construction adhesive so they dont creak. in a few years. skin ply over the existing ply (or change) the risers flush to tread sub ply height. When you go to cut the treads you run a 18" carpenters square off the face of the riser to check how out of square the drywall is, I cut to the widest number and wiggle them in tight, because drywall will give. if it aint super out of square.

Am I making sense?
 
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Picasso3

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get yourself some suds

I doubt you'll pick up a leak with a pressure gauge. Should be a valve behind the stove, turn it off and see if you still get the smell.
 
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