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alavaz

alavaz

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Mrs. Gravy said:
HVAC help - my furnace would not stop running; the thermostat was set to 68 and the temp read 75; it was set to heat and on auto. If I turned it to off, it did not matter; it kept running. This made me guess that it was the thermostat; it of course happened last night about 10 and I was in "fuck it" I am not dealing with this right now mode so I went and flipped the breaker. This morning when I awakened it was a comfy 66 degrees (no wonder I slept well) I went down and flipped the breaker; it is now staying steady at 68.
WTH? Thermostat or furnace?
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Unless your thermostat is super old, in my (albeit limited) experience it usually turns out to be a sequencer or a limit switch that is stuck when the heat won't turn off. You can youtube a replacement video for any of those parts for your model. It's relatively easy and usually only requires a screwdriver.

Although, the stat might be an easy place to start as you can by one for $30-$40 and wire it up in 10 minutes or so. If it doesn't solve the problem, then just return it.

edit: To add, there should be a little port hole on your furnace somewhere that you can see a little LED through. When you flip the break back on, go walk over to it and see how many times it blinks. That is a status code that you can look up to help you diagnose the issue.
 
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Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
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Zapatta said:
Ok, so step 1

you are going to peel and clip back the current treads to net, or change them to treated. if you change them make sure to set new ply lumber crown up and use liquid nails or some other construction adhesive so they dont creak. in a few years. skin ply the risers flush to tread sub ply height. When you go to cut the treads you run a 18" carpenters square off the face of the riser to check how out of square the drywall is, I cut to the widest number and wiggle them in tight, because drywall will give. if it aint super out of square.

Am I making sense?
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so you wouldn't do the skirt up the sides?
 
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Picasso3

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e721c545e6c2b25ea80a8d29b81fd3bd.jpg


the white board on the edge.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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Picasso3 said:
View attachment 113226

the white board on the edge.
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Ahh, you can, thats a ton of work and you will end up caulking a lot because no way you will hit it your cuts exact. I take advantage of the give in drywall to wedge a tight fit, and if I have a teeny gap I fake it with a cunt hair of caulk. Reason I dont run those is stairs only take wear up the middle. the risers and the very edge of the tread are the only places that get beat on. The wiggle fit looks more modern imo.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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all this finish carpentry shit comes down to 16ths and 32nds, it sucks. I measure 3X before I cut finish shit, I draw a lot of pictures with square lines and measurements when dicking with that shit. I hate blowing a cut.

I really want to reach this level of skill in finish, but it will never fucking happen.

 
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iannis

iannis

Musty Nester
31,351
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Picasso3 said:
get yourself some suds

I doubt you'll pick up a leak with a pressure gauge. Should be a valve behind the stove, turn it off and see if you still get the smell.
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Yeah, all I want to do is isolate a variable.

But I'm not sure what the pressure -should- be to gauge it against, even if there is a low pressure doohickey thing I could get to check it. So my test will have to be pull the stove, close the valve, reopen the valve up at the tank, see if I get that smell back within a few hours.

I've got electircal connections back behind it at least. So if it is the stove, maybe i'll just go one of those fancy ass new ones that you need special pots for.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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iannis said:
I've got electircal connections back behind it at least. So if it is the stove, maybe i'll just go one of those fancy ass new ones that you need special pots for.
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Induction range?

Induction-Cookers-Which-Magazine.jpg


Had one, will never do that again, I went back to gas.
 
iannis

iannis

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Didn't like it?

They heat SO fast, you'd have to get really used to cooking on them I expect. Are they just giant electricty hogs or something?
 
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Picasso3

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i have an electric cooktop and its a piece of shit compared to the glorious blue jet of my previous nat gas cooktop.

I suspect electric is still more energy efficient, so much heat goes blowing by when using gas, but it's still faster for cooking and easier to control imo.

if you choose electric over gas when you have a choice i will move to have you banned from the cooking thread, the home improvement thread, and the man thread.
 
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Picasso3

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rCXeMxo.jpg


I think I'm going to try to saw the nosing off flush in place. They're in pretty tight and nailed well and they're tearing the shit out of the wall.
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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iannis said:
Didn't like it?

They heat SO fast, you'd have to get really used to cooking on them I expect. Are they just giant electricty hogs or something?
Click to expand...

I guess you could say I was a beta tester. I had the first gen ones a ways back with metal plates for the induction element they constantly rusted and made shitty contact. They probably work better now, but I couldnt use all my pots and pans on it and it didnt have the subtly of temp range like gas.

I still want to add an F-16 engine type gas burner to my range for my wok, so I dont have to run it from a bottle on the porch.

0001775.jpe
 
Zapatta

Zapatta

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P Picasso3

if you wanna get fancy with your inch thick treads you can counter sink screw they down and buy a plug cutter to make plugs to cover the holes from your drops. buy a drill stop to do consistent depth in your counter sinks.

68960-01-1000.jpg


fHeDf.jpg
 
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Picasso3

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I was gonna go the trim nail route.

Your glue comment got me thinking though can i just glue them?
 
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