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Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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My parents live on Guam - their payback time for solar was ~3 yrs. Where I'm at now the payback would be 10+ so not worth it right now. Living by a nuclear plant keeps our electricity prices fairly steady so long-term doesn't look great for solar either.
Oh well!
who needs solar when skin glows?
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,278
15,109
Ok so I'm the idiot then. We plan on selling the house in the next 3-5 years though so it'll be something for the next house
 

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
65,356
147,449
Ok so I'm the idiot then. We plan on selling the house in the next 3-5 years though so it'll be something for the next house
oh don't do it then

cuz then, who takes on the solar loan? can you pay it off early? probably incur penalties when you factor in the system will be 25k-ish, you're just literally gonna put that down in the real estate listing and from what i've read no one gives a shit on a proper solar evaluation when home buying.
 

Khane

Got something right about marriage
20,346
14,011
Other factors are the pitch and size of your roof and which direction it's facing for maximum exposure.
 

GuardianX

Perpetually Pessimistic
<Bronze Donator>
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Working on a bed area project, got a frame I can be proud of but I am looking to do a headboard next that can house a phone + charging cable + night-light system.

Question is...I wanna have a plug...or electrical conduit behind the scenes in the headboard for power than connect it all to an outlet behind the headboard.

Can I safely wire a heavy duty extension cord (or something else) to a male plug then to my electrical needs on the headboard? Nothing else will be on that plug aside from:

2 phones pulling charging levels of current
2 LED night-lights OR a small LED ambiance system.
 

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
<Silver Donator>
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Just spent about 3 hours trying to order new doors for the house, including 40 minutes on the phone with some poor home depot employee making her run back and forth to the door aisle and getting SKUs for me because they wouldn't come up on the website for some reason. I have mixed feelings spending $3000 on new doors when the old ones were still functional but they were the wrong color plus I just despise hollow core doors. Makes the whole house seem like a trailer house. The new ones are nothing fancy but at least they're solid wood.
 

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
<Silver Donator>
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Working on a bed area project, got a frame I can be proud of but I am looking to do a headboard next that can house a phone + charging cable + night-light system.

Question is...I wanna have a plug...or electrical conduit behind the scenes in the headboard for power than connect it all to an outlet behind the headboard.

Can I safely wire a heavy duty extension cord (or something else) to a male plug then to my electrical needs on the headboard? Nothing else will be on that plug aside from:

2 phones pulling charging levels of current
2 LED night-lights OR a small LED ambiance system.

Yeah that should work fine.
 

Vinen

God is dead
2,790
495
Just spent about 3 hours trying to order new doors for the house, including 40 minutes on the phone with some poor home depot employee making her run back and forth to the door aisle and getting SKUs for me because they wouldn't come up on the website for some reason. I have mixed feelings spending $3000 on new doors when the old ones were still functional but they were the wrong color plus I just despise hollow core doors. Makes the whole house seem like a trailer house. The new ones are nothing fancy but at least they're solid wood.
Why w0ould you spend 3000 on door from Home Depot.
 

GuardianX

Perpetually Pessimistic
<Bronze Donator>
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Why w0ould you spend 3000 on door from Home Depot.

I mean they have most brands or can order them.

What would be a better alternative?

I was looking at Jeld-wen (through home-depot) and one other brand that I can't recall.

I think jeld was top of my list because you can get it factory painted with a robust paint.
 

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Vinen is just trying to brag about how much money he has, don't worry about it.
 
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BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Most doors are off the same boat and they just put brand names on them after they get here from China. I did look into some made in the USA options online and they were only 20% more so I was going to do it until I found out that it was going to be $1000 to ship them here.

My brother got the same style doors for his house from either Bloedorns or Builder's first source. They look identical and were similar in price but they don't have them in stock and home Depot does. Also, both of those stores here are full of retards (not that home Depot isn't).
 

GuardianX

Perpetually Pessimistic
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Trying to do a smart switch for a bathroom heater situation but the switch I need would need to be a 20A switch (company sells them cheap, but they are gaudy and stupid) and smart switches are typically max 15 amp.

Debating doing a relay in the attic that can switch on the 20 amp line for the heater wired to a smart wall switch.

Any suggestions on accomplishing this outside of what I mentioned or, perhaps things to use to accomplish it?
 

Picasso3

Silver Baronet of the Realm
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relay seems like the way to go but you could verify the actual draw for the heater. There is a rule about continuous use that it can only be 80% of the breakers capacity (which doesn't apply to switches as far as i know) and I don't think there's any rule about bathroom heaters having to be on a dedicated circuit so if you're the manufacturer you're going to recommend a 20 amp, which will give you 16amps to use by code and I would suspect some fluff beyond that to allow for not having a dedicated circuit
 

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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What's the wattage of the heater? A lot of 120V heaters are 1500 watts which means they'll be drawing 12.5 amps max. If you have a dedicated circuit I don't think it would probably be a problem putting a 15 amp breaker on it. There's some chance the breaker would pop due to inrush current or something, but I doubt it. That's not to say it will be up to code. I don't know anything about code, but I bet it would work and worst case it will blow the breaker. Not like you're going to start a fire or something if it doesn't work.
 
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