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lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

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BrutulTM said:
What's the wattage of the heater? A lot of 120V heaters are 1500 watts which means they'll be drawing 12.5 amps max. If you have a dedicated circuit I don't think it would probably be a problem putting a 15 amp breaker on it. There's some chance the breaker would pop due to inrush current or something, but I doubt it. That's not to say it will be up to code. I don't know anything about code, but I bet it would work.
Click to expand...

This is exactly the situation I currently have in two of my bathrooms. The two I haven't redone yet. They have 15 amp breakers on the outlets, and they also feed the lights. My freaking kids turn on a space heater (I'm putting radiant heat in all the bathroom floors eventually), then turn on the lights. Periodically this practice blows the breaker. But if the lights are on, and you turn on the space heater, it's typically no issue whatsoever.
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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Thanks for the feedback, yeah it's a 1500w 120v 12.5A...so yeah Guess I'm good. For some reason I thought it was 16a continuous.

That makes this all a ton easier then! Cool.
 
GuardianX

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Next up on the Saga...

I know this house is fucked on the electrical, Every time I change something like going from the old school outlets to a new Tamper Resist or GF/AFCI I am reminded.

That being said, can I put a junction box (no clue if this is the word for it) where I can spider web the outlets to a box in the attic since I know all the lines run to the attic already.

Basically the goal would be to turn this chaos into a centralized system.

Old bullshit:

1579313235493.png


The Change (TM):

1579313356183.png


Not to spec at all...those pics...just a general idea of the clusterfuck of my homes wiring.

The goal would be to find a line that touches the individual rooms and pull lines that go into other rooms to a connection that only services that room alone.

Question is, can I just do a junction box, panel to junction -- junction to various things in room.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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GuardianX said:
Next up on the Saga...

I know this house is fucked on the electrical, Every time I change something like going from the old school outlets to a new Tamper Resist or GF/AFCI I am reminded.

That being said, can I put a junction box (no clue if this is the word for it) where I can spider web the outlets to a box in the attic since I know all the lines run to the attic already.

Basically the goal would be to turn this chaos into a centralized system.

Old bullshit:

View attachment 244040

The Change (TM):

View attachment 244041

Not to spec at all...those pics...just a general idea of the clusterfuck of my homes wiring.

The goal would be to find a line that touches the individual rooms and pull lines that go into other rooms to a connection that only services that room alone.

Question is, can I just do a junction box, panel to junction -- junction to various things in room.
Click to expand...
i will have the linguine positano
 
GuardianX

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Picasso3 said:
Unless you're throwing breakers I wouldn't mess with it.
Click to expand...

Noted.

I'm gunna be putting computers on the same circuit as a bathroom outlet that my wife uses to blow-dry her hair at this rate.

Other fun times:

The bathroom heater and the other-side outlet (bathroom has 2 outlets) share a line so if you pop on a hair-dryer and the heater at the same time (which she has done in the cooler months), it pops the GFCI, not the breaker oddly enough.

Other outlet, as I said goes along the bedroom walls where I intend to put our computers.

Wall where we have our computers now shares with our lights / fan and the kids room outlets / lights / fan.

Guest bath passes through a smoke-detector before going into the hall light then hitting the bathroom.

---

This list is by no means comprehensive, just what I've noticed as I've been doing projects and replacing / updating outlets and switches.

I feel competent enough to wire something like:

1579369060504.png


With something like 1 incoming wire and 5 outgoing wires for guest rooms so that I can shut off power to a room, easily.

My worry is, would it be code compliant?

I mean, I'm pretty sure my house...as is...isn't code compliant in any way.

Can I run wires to a box like this, ground the box, wire-nut all the wires and then run power to location using my attic?
 
iannis

iannis

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Brahma said:
My neighbors wooden fence is leaning into my yard. Looks like shit. Dumb bitch did it herself and used no concrete. (One of those "If a man can do it...") Just dug fuckin holes and stuck the poles in the ground. Threw the dirt back in the holes. AND she has shit leaning against the fence. Two bad days of wind, and the whole fence around her house is leaning. Can I legally just rip up the 3 spans/poles and replace them myself? I don't want to put my fence up next to hers...it will just weaken my fence.
Click to expand...
I doubt it, it it's a fixture on her property. It'll depend on your local ordinance. Around here if a tree is leaning into your property you can trim the part that is but not take the entire thing down.

Seems like even if she's a hag, if you offer to do some free work and wouldn't turn it down though.
 
GuardianX

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lurkingdirk said:
maxresdefault.jpg


That's a terrible idea. Don't duplicate anything from your bathroom.
Click to expand...

Duplicate?

I dunno what you mean by that.

My goal is to NOT have computers and hair-dryers on the same circuit. I wanna isolate rooms preferably and i know it'll be a pain in the ass BUT I wanna see if I can make it LESS a pain in the ass by going to a junction then to a room. Cutting lines where I can and then splicing them to singular points rather than 20 locations.

Like..check-it, this is my panel..

Panel Left.jpg


Panel Right.jpg


Lots of question marks.

---

EDIT:

So...2 sides of the panel have "Kitchen Sink" and one side has "Disposal". What does kitchen sink even mean?

---

Some I can reasonably guess, like the bottom pic that has "Family Room" and "Garage" BUT....in the top picture the one with "Porch / bedroom / ???" the "?" part looks like it says something like "GER****" and the next word looks like "Paul***". So I don't know if there is garage lighting on that circuit or not.

MIND YOU....when I went into the attic last time i took a massive light with me so I could set-up and figure some shit out. Only more questions. Old wires, new wires, all mixed together, some dead some live, some going to patch boxes that are live and others going to dead boxes....honest to god it's just chaos.

I'm looking to make the chaos less...chaos...
 
lurkingdirk

lurkingdirk

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Then run a line to a sub panel and put new stuff on that once you've figured everything out on that horror show a panel you already have.
 
Khane

Khane

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Aright so I am no DIY professional, and definitely no electrician but for the A/C and the "No Clue" that are double pole breakers on the 240v bus... any chance you can switch those to single pole breakers to make room? I know that my 2 separate 220v A/Cs are on separate, single pole breakers in the 240v bus (well, I know they are 220v plugs and I know they are on single pole breakers).

Probably don't wanna fuck with the dryer and oven.
 
GuardianX

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lurkingdirk said:
Then run a line to a sub panel and put new stuff on that once you've figured everything out on that horror show a panel you already have.
Click to expand...

Panel work scares the shit out of me since this panel doesn't have a main shut-off. I could likely do it with someone telling me "OH GOD DON'T TOUCH THAT FUCK CALL THE MEDICS!!" but outside of that, I'd rather not.

Khane said:
Aright so I am no DIY professional, and definitely no electrician but for the A/C and the "No Clue" that are double pole breakers on the 240v bus... any chance you can switch those to single pole breakers to make room? I know that my 2 separate 220v A/Cs are on separate, single pole breakers in the 240v bus (well, I know they are 220v plugs and I know they are on single pole breakers).

Probably don't wanna fuck with the dryer and oven.
Click to expand...

I have no clue what's behind the panel, I haven't taken it off because i have 0 faith in whoever did the wiring already. Worst case if I touch a line in the attic is I get a jolt that doesn't kill me (GENERALLY). With the panel, the best I can say is, I haven't died opening the panel.
 
Khane

Khane

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Call an electrician and see how much it will cost? If he tells you your panel is a ticking timebomb and it will be a fortune to fix at least you don't die in a sudden electrical fire at 2 am?
 
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P

Picasso3

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If your panel doesn't have a main breaker then it is a sub panel (they call it main lug I think) and the breaker is another breaker box somewhere. If this is your main house panel then you should definitely fix that (prob with a new panel).

By code the bathroom should be on its own 20 amp circuit.

the unknown 50a may be water heater or auxiliary electric furnace heat.. not too many things need 50a.

They have tandem breakers to free up room in the box.

Having 2p 240v on two separate breakers is against code unless the throw bars are mechanically joined. Eg you can turn off or blow one breaker and you still have 120v on the other leg, obv dangerous. You can have 240v single leg service (usually commercial i think) so maybe if you're in an apartment complex or something they did that.

Prob count on 1500-2k for panel replacement (300 in materials). I replaced one in my old house and am glad I did for learning and now I have no issues adding circuits, sub panels, etc, but it is difficult to manage if you're living in the house. I had to coordinate w/ City and Power company but replaced the meter and mast head too

If it looks like you need another subpanel or major work I really encourage you to save up and get a single new 40 space panel (and 200 amp service if you don't have that) instead of adding another layer of fuck to that system.

Re the single junction box per room -- The code has box size requirements depending on the number and size of connecting wires (which will probably be surprisingly large for 6 connections). You can also wire gfci outlets to protect downstream circuits so if you have any in place or plan to install any keep that in mind.
 
Last edited:
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Borzak

Borzak

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I'm a big DIY'er or was. I wired the shop, the office and other things from the ground up. I would call an electrician lol. The no main cutoff at the panel would scare me as well. Just make sure you don't live in an area where contractors come out and say it sucks and doesn't meet code and turn you in or something.

I would never trust what was written in on a panel. I'd try it all out first. "Kitchen sink" and a disposal, no clue.
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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Borzak said:
I'm a big DIY'er or was. I wired the shop, the office and other things from the ground up. I would call an electrician lol. The no main cutoff at the panel would scare me as well. Just make sure you don't live in an area where contractors come out and say it sucks and doesn't meet code and turn you in or something.

I would never trust what was written in on a panel. I'd try it all out first. "Kitchen sink" and a disposal, no clue.
Click to expand...

I am GUESSING....that "Kitchen Sink" are left and right side of the kitchen sink outlets...why individual? No...fucking...clue....

As for "turning us in for code" part, we had a home inspector out and knew of a lot of the issues, the house was a steal.

Lanx said:
you still haven't filled in the "?", that is scary
Click to expand...

Ehh, I mean it's a to-do list. Neighbors aren't leeching power, our bill the last 2 months were like 30 USD for power. House hasn't burned down so that is fine too.

Taking a look at the inspection comments, I could open up the panel just fine, I just wouldn't be doing anything in there currently.

---

The inspector basically agreed with you all.

The strange part is, maybe i'm off on this but...when I do an outlet test for wiring, it says the ground is wired correctly. Shouldn't that mean it is reaching ground?

One of the major things about the home that he noted on the report is that it doesn't have a visible source for ground, either rod or foundation.

A goal of mine, when my dad was last here, was to get a rod and drive it. That plan went out the window, but I should just do it because rods are like 10 bucks and a rental of a demo hammer and a bit is like 40.
 
GuardianX

GuardianX

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Picasso3 said:
If your panel doesn't have a main breaker then it is a sub panel (they call it main lug I think) and the breaker is another breaker box somewhere. If this is your main house panel then you should definitely fix that (prob with a new panel).

By code the bathroom should be on its own 20 amp circuit.

the unknown 50a may be water heater or auxiliary electric furnace heat.. not too many things need 50a.

They have tandem breakers to free up room in the box.

Having 2p 240v on two separate breakers is against code unless the throw bars are mechanically joined. Eg you can turn off or blow one breaker and you still have 120v on the other leg, obv dangerous. You can have 240v single leg service (usually commercial i think) so maybe if you're in an apartment complex or something they did that.

Prob count on 1500-2k for panel replacement (300 in materials). I replaced one in my old house and am glad I did for learning and now I have no issues adding circuits, sub panels, etc, but it is difficult to manage if you're living in the house. I had to coordinate w/ City and Power company but replaced the meter and mast head too

If it looks like you need another subpanel or major work I really encourage you to save up and get a single new 40 space panel (and 200 amp service if you don't have that) instead of adding another layer of fuck to that system.

Re the single junction box per room -- The code has box size requirements depending on the number and size of connecting wires (which will probably be surprisingly large for 6 connections). You can also wire gfci outlets to protect downstream circuits so if you have any in place or plan to install any keep that in mind.
Click to expand...


Is it common for a gas water-heater to be 50 amped?

Heating for this home is mostly gas aside from Oven and dryer, which the dryer has the option for gas but isn't connected.
 
Borzak

Borzak

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Does seem kind of high for gas. I have an electric and it's 50amp. I looked just the other day to turn it off to drain it. All you are powering is a few electronics and the blower.
 
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