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Foler

The_Black_Log Foler

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Erronius Erronius Kajiimagi Kajiimagi

Great news. My electrician is super cool. Happy to take over. No we won’t pull permits as it will just open too many other doors that were already opened (unpermitted septic repair, unpermitted feeder 240v to barn, unpermitted chicken coop, etc).

So to solve the issue with limited space around my main, he’s going to put this box in the ground, I forget what it’s called… From there he’ll just pipe wires through the existing two 2” conduits going into main. So this “box” will act as a hub. I guess these things are usually used to get around NEC code for total degrees in curvature of a conduit run (had no idea about this).

Wayyyy better plan than what cousin Eddy and I were thinking - piping a bunch of individual conduits directly to main.

Im also going to get an automated gate installed which will need a 200-300 ft electric run so this box or as I’ll refer to it “hub” will be super useful for expanding electrical.

thanks for all the advice from both of you. I didn’t think my electrician would do work without permits but I probably should have just asked him instead of assuming.
 
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Erronius

Erronius

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Probably some sort of quazite box, would be my guess


1698210049705.jpeg



Foler said:
I didn’t think my electrician would do work without permits but I probably should have just asked him instead of assuming.
Click to expand...

Man, fuck permitting. I honestly think people only do it when they have no other choice.
 
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Kajiimagi

Kajiimagi

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Erronius said:
Probably some sort of quazite box, would be my guess


View attachment 497030




Man, fuck permitting. I honestly think people only do it when they have no other choice.
Click to expand...
Permitting to me is a cost that is only worth it if you don't know/trust the people doing the work. My personal experience was in the electrical part of construction but I cannot even begin to guess at the amount of money wasted due to some fuckheads interpertation of a code. If you find yourself in that position , 99.9% of the time you are going to give in and spend the $$ even if you don't agree as fighting a dumb rule takes too damn long.
 
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Foler

The_Black_Log Foler

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Sooo I’m shopping around for a shed builder. Looking to have a 14x24 shed built. Probably leaning towards gambrel shed maybe for loft storage. This will store all property maintenance tools such as weed eaters, chainsaws, brush cutters, shovels, axes, etc etc.

I’m wondering the juice is worth the squeeze to have it insulated? The idea being to help control heat and temp. I’d probably have to have a dehumidifier and just pipe it to outside.

Is that overkill? I have nice tools and I’m a “buy for life” type person.

edit - maybe just skipping the insulation and piping a dehumidifier in it would do. I’d probably add a fan in there for when I’m working in there
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Foler said:
Sooo I’m shopping around for a shed builder. Looking to have a 14x24 shed built. Probably leaning towards gambrel shed maybe for loft storage. This will store all property maintenance tools such as weed eaters, chainsaws, brush cutters, shovels, axes, etc etc.

I’m wondering the juice is worth the squeeze to have it insulated? The idea being to help control heat and temp. I’d probably have to have a dehumidifier and just pipe it to outside.

Is that overkill? I have nice tools and I’m a “buy for life” type person.

edit - maybe just skipping the insulation and piping a dehumidifier in it would do. I’d probably add a fan in there for when I’m working in there
Click to expand...
I’m just thinking out loud and could be full of shit, but I’d think insulation would be a waste of money if you’re not planning on climate control. Similarly, a dehumidifier probably wouldn’t be very effective unless you made the space relatively air tight.
 
Foler

The_Black_Log Foler

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Dandai said:
I’m just thinking out loud and could be full of shit, but I’d think insulation would be a waste of money if you’re not planning on climate control. Similarly, a dehumidifier probably wouldn’t be very effective unless you made the space relatively air tight.
Click to expand...
Yeah.. I really don’t want to go to the trouble of AC + insulation if the payoff is minimal. I don’t live in coastal Florida. To be frank I’m not sure I’ve seen any of my tools acquire significant rust in my current barn that is just concrete block..

Leaning towards an overpriced custom tuff shed build and by default they have heat shielding around walls to help keep heat down.

Anyone have experience with tuff shed? Only downsides I’ve seen is overpriced and if you go with their steel floor joists shed companies won’t move them because apparently they just fold in versus wood skids.
 
C

Captain Suave

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I'm making all the rookie mistakes so you guys don't have to:

I spent the day migrating my router, server, etc from my bedroom into a more central closet in the hall. I installed a vertical conduit in the closet so I can run ethernet to and from the attic and crawlspace. I picked where I wanted to hang my ceiling mounted WAPs... and when I got to the attic to run the cable realized that the closest I could get was eight feet due to roof pitch and it was too obstructed to push the cable or fishing tape up from the bottom. The rest of the afternoon was a complete shitshow ending with me commando crawling through a portion of the attic with ten inches clearance and wedging myself under the rafters face first in fiberglass using an extendo-arm from my kids to try to snag the cable.

tldr; Check your attic access before you drill into your ceiling.
 
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Nija

Nija

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Captain Suave said:
I'm making all the rookie mistakes so you guys don't have to:

I spent the day migrating my router, server, etc from my bedroom into a more central closet in the hall. I installed a vertical conduit in the closet so I can run ethernet to and from the attic and crawlspace. I picked where I wanted to hang my ceiling mounted WAPs... and when I got to the attic to run the cable realized that the closest I could get was eight feet due to roof pitch and it was too obstructed to push the cable or fishing tape up from the bottom. The rest of the afternoon was a complete shitshow ending with me commando crawling through a portion of the attic with ten inches clearance and wedging myself under the rafters face first in fiberglass using an extendo-arm from my kids to try to snag the cable.

tldr; Check your attic access before you drill into your ceiling.
Click to expand...
Been there man. Been there.
 
Kobayashi

Kobayashi

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Bought a whole-home generator last year and just had a guy come out for yearly maintenance. There are a few spots of rust on the black pipe at one of the unions, am I being unreasonable to assume that this should have been addressed? I know it's not really any impact to performance or safety, just looks crappy. Assuming they tell me to pound sand, any recommendations for a touch up paint?
 
Y

Yeahs73

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Kobayashi said:
Bought a whole-home generator last year and just had a guy come out for yearly maintenance. There are a few spots of rust on the black pipe at one of the unions, am I being unreasonable to assume that this should have been addressed? I know it's not really any impact to performance or safety, just looks crappy. Assuming they tell me to pound sand, any recommendations for a touch up paint?
Click to expand...
Just paint it with a decent oil based paint. Whatever color looks good. Rusty happens it’s not an issue it all. Some places require gas pipe to be painted some don’t.
 
Lanx

Lanx

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garage door wouldn't close, yes outlet has power, nothing blocking the sensors

pulled it and sent it back down manually, and connected the latch, opens fine

will not close, so if the sensors are fine, theres an adjustment on the opener to use more downward force, and thats what worked for me (in case someone finds this useful)

yesterday was also the first really cold day of the year, so idk why.
 
ToeMissile

ToeMissile

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Lanx said:
garage door wouldn't close, yes outlet has power, nothing blocking the sensors

pulled it and sent it back down manually, and connected the latch, opens fine

will not close, so if the sensors are fine, theres an adjustment on the opener to use more downward force, and thats what worked for me (in case someone finds this useful)

yesterday was also the first really cold day of the year, so idk why.
Click to expand...
We used to have an issue with certain times of day where the sun would shine at just the right angle to disrupt the beam or whatever between sensors and/or overheat something. The sensors were also old as hell, replaced them and no more door stuck open.
 
moonarchia

moonarchia

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Question for the peeps here. I am the antithesis of handy when it comes to anything resembling this thread. That said, I am looking for 1) a decent VESA mount for a 40 inch 33 lb monitor. I want it to be as flat against the wall as possible. Then, what sort of company would I look into to find someone to put the mount up?
 
Lanx

Lanx

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moonarchia said:
Question for the peeps here. I am the antithesis of handy when it comes to anything resembling this thread. That said, I am looking for 1) a decent VESA mount for a 40 inch 33 lb monitor. I want it to be as flat against the wall as possible. Then, what sort of company would I look into to find someone to put the mount up?
Click to expand...
i had a flush mount in my basement at a previous house
e9d9d0d079d035d79445dab823787787.png


i wouldn't do it again, b/c it was hard to mount and slide it in.

of course that was b/c i was using a tv (it was just treadmill tv) from 2009 so it was a 32in heavy shit, and i had to lift it over my head and worry about the ceiling clearance too.

but this kind of super flush mounting would be annoying to use after wards, no access to back controls

i'm guessing you can just lookup handyman in my area, you'd have a good chance at finding one on nextdoor
 
moonarchia

moonarchia

The Scientific Shitlord
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Lanx said:
i had a flush mount in my basement at a previous house
e9d9d0d079d035d79445dab823787787.png


i wouldn't do it again, b/c it was hard to mount and slide it in.

of course that was b/c i was using a tv (it was just treadmill tv) from 2009 so it was a 32in heavy shit, and i had to lift it over my head and worry about the ceiling clearance too.

but this kind of super flush mounting would be annoying to use after wards, no access to back controls

i'm guessing you can just lookup handyman in my area, you'd have a good chance at finding one on nextdoor
Click to expand...

Got one of these a couple months ago.

Amazon product ASIN B0BW1VM62Y
The stand it comes with is pretty slim, but it's still 8 inches out from the wall. I will have all the cords plugged in and tied to go down under the desk. I live in a condo that has lots of rules about who can do stuff in the units, so I will ask them for a recommendation or what, if anything, I need to look for. They had insurance requirements of like 500k when I had someone try to put in blackout blinds.
 
Lanx

Lanx

<Prior Amod>
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moonarchia said:
Got one of these a couple months ago.

Amazon product ASIN B0BW1VM62Y
The stand it comes with is pretty slim, but it's still 8 inches out from the wall. I will have all the cords plugged in and tied to go down under the desk. I live in a condo that has lots of rules about who can do stuff in the units, so I will ask them for a recommendation or what, if anything, I need to look for. They had insurance requirements of like 500k when I had someone try to put in blackout blinds.
Click to expand...
you got those condo limitations sounds annoying
 
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