Oldbased
> Than U
- 28,436
- 67,422
The stack down and vent up will be at the corner marked Vent. However where it goes out the roof will be at the 5 foot mark of the left side.
Reason being:
Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
- Start date
-
Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
Reason being:
Oldbased
> Than U
- 28,436
- 67,422
I liked the reviews, especially on other sites. Basically, I don't know if it works cause the commode is awesome to begin with but if it does!
The demo on lowes site was pretty nice too.
I've had commodes overflow, but it is usually in backups from roots which imo this would not help.
Still being 2nd floor, it seems like a good idea.
Uber Uberest
rdr^2
- 2,717
- 2,337
You'd like your toiler centered on a 36" opening, the way you have the cabinets along that wall now is going to seriously make taking a shit uncomfortable.
I was under the impression this was a first floor bathroom? Is the waste going to be received on a horizontal drain or a vertical stack?
I was under the impression this was a first floor bathroom? Is the waste going to be received on a horizontal drain or a vertical stack?
Oldbased
> Than U
- 28,436
- 67,422
Ya the picture is outdated somewhat it was just to show layout and there is a ceiling slope.
The commode is actually only 14 inches off the shower wall, but it is a frameless shower and the bowl part of the commode is where the shower already takes off at a 45degree angle elsewhere. So there will be plenty of access on that side despite it.
The other side the cabinetry will not be there any longer, it will end prior to that leaving a total of 37 inches between wall and shower the commode occupies. Due to the slant of the wall it will be offset in that 36 inches.
This is 2nd floor in a room above a garage no plumbing exists. The commode drain however will be horizontal for the 4-5 feet it takes to get to the new line doing down and under the 1st floor kitchen.
I should add the reason the commode in detail is off center by 4 inches in my new plan( not shown but shown better in the actual top down plan ) is standing in front of the commode there gives me 6'6 to the ceiling where as 4 inches over more would almost brush any 6' mans head against the ceiling.
This is what I have to work with, it is set in stone as on the other side of the wall the pedestal sink is on is the stairway coming up.
The commode is actually only 14 inches off the shower wall, but it is a frameless shower and the bowl part of the commode is where the shower already takes off at a 45degree angle elsewhere. So there will be plenty of access on that side despite it.
The other side the cabinetry will not be there any longer, it will end prior to that leaving a total of 37 inches between wall and shower the commode occupies. Due to the slant of the wall it will be offset in that 36 inches.
This is 2nd floor in a room above a garage no plumbing exists. The commode drain however will be horizontal for the 4-5 feet it takes to get to the new line doing down and under the 1st floor kitchen.
I should add the reason the commode in detail is off center by 4 inches in my new plan( not shown but shown better in the actual top down plan ) is standing in front of the commode there gives me 6'6 to the ceiling where as 4 inches over more would almost brush any 6' mans head against the ceiling.
This is what I have to work with, it is set in stone as on the other side of the wall the pedestal sink is on is the stairway coming up.
- 12,736
- 49,570
I'm kinda with this, that could potentially be a tight space if you need to adopt a wide stance to drop some stubborn kids off at the pool...
Oldbased
> Than U
- 28,436
- 67,422
Haha. Well the good thing is it is a comfort height. I need takeoff space for the old classic shit on the floor 14-15inch types. Amazing what 2-3 inches in height does for using commodes.
Code is 30 still on crappers here but considering I am building a complete bath in a coffin sized room, it'll feel pretty decent in commode area with my updated design.
Another thing that pisses me off is vanity heights. I've seen vanities as low as 28-30 inches. When I build mine I build usually at 38 inches off the floor. Think I may have posted this one, was 2 weeks ago before I got the flu of death. I built everything. Vanity and top( Edited to add above of vanity top) is all oak ,everything. Drawers and insides, even the vanity floor and sides is oak ply. Used roundover for routing the edges of the doors/drawers and it floats 5 inches off the floor, tiled to back. Blah blah.
This personally isn't my color choice but homeowner YOLO.
Code is 30 still on crappers here but considering I am building a complete bath in a coffin sized room, it'll feel pretty decent in commode area with my updated design.
Another thing that pisses me off is vanity heights. I've seen vanities as low as 28-30 inches. When I build mine I build usually at 38 inches off the floor. Think I may have posted this one, was 2 weeks ago before I got the flu of death. I built everything. Vanity and top( Edited to add above of vanity top) is all oak ,everything. Drawers and insides, even the vanity floor and sides is oak ply. Used roundover for routing the edges of the doors/drawers and it floats 5 inches off the floor, tiled to back. Blah blah.
This personally isn't my color choice but homeowner YOLO.
- 46,750
- 215,270
I hope you grabbed that junction with your bare hands while standing in a pool of water.
Who the heck does shit like that?
Who the heck does shit like that?
Oldbased
> Than U
- 28,436
- 67,422
You would be fucking surprised.
Had one in that bath pic above 2 weeks ago where I found a old 12/2 line in attic, no wire nuts on the end nothing. Not strapped, bare ends, I said no way this is live right? Take snips to middle. POP. Yup it was live.
Tinsnips with insulated handles. The #1 to find out which breaker it was on!
I see 4 things wrong in that picture I would never do and I am not even a electrician. Errr actually 5.
Had one in that bath pic above 2 weeks ago where I found a old 12/2 line in attic, no wire nuts on the end nothing. Not strapped, bare ends, I said no way this is live right? Take snips to middle. POP. Yup it was live.
Tinsnips with insulated handles. The #1 to find out which breaker it was on!
I see 4 things wrong in that picture I would never do and I am not even a electrician. Errr actually 5.
It's pretty standard in SC, everythings 50+ years old and everyone's a do it yourselfer. Makes it difficult to follow codes to the letter when you see shit like that and know it worked just fine and didn't even kill anyone.
Most elec junctions in this house are soldered, i didn't even know that was an option.
Most elec junctions in this house are soldered, i didn't even know that was an option.
Last edited:
Grandpa had tons of klein pliers with the cutters blown out and elec tape handles because that was his circuit tester/breaker finder. I'll still do that as a final check before i touch something with hands.
OneofOne
Silver Baronet of the Realm
- 6,887
- 8,714
Ok handymen, I'm stymied. I got a sliding door lock, like this (actually, this is the exact replacement I bought locally)Prime-Line Products U 9882 Sliding Door Lock, Keyed, Step-On, Aluminum Finish - Door Hardware - Amazon.comand it's got security screws in it. I went and spent too much money on a remover bit for my Makita, but the screw heads are far too shredded for this to work. Suggestions I found outline include sawing a grove in the heads to stick a flathead screwdriver into, and getting a tiler cutter to get behind the screw heads to get a grip on 'em to unscrew. Unfortunately, the model I currently have has the screws recessed ever so slightly, which kills those ideas. I don't care if I remove the current lock in 50 pieces - it's broken and I just want it off. But I'd also prefer not to bust my glass door. Ideas?
Oldbased
> Than U
- 28,436
- 67,422
By security screws I assume you mean those pain the ass screw in 1 way with a flathead but its rounder reversed where you can't unscrew it?
Least that is the ones on a lot of new deadbolts and such I run into.
I have been using a flat file to catch em enough to unscrew but if yours are recessed that isn't going to work well.
You could try superglue. Get a c clamp, put a dab on a screw head and clamp it head to head in the notch with it, let it dry( over night ) then with pliers unscrew it.
Could also drill it out.
I hate those buggers.
Least that is the ones on a lot of new deadbolts and such I run into.
I have been using a flat file to catch em enough to unscrew but if yours are recessed that isn't going to work well.
You could try superglue. Get a c clamp, put a dab on a screw head and clamp it head to head in the notch with it, let it dry( over night ) then with pliers unscrew it.
Could also drill it out.
I hate those buggers.
OneofOne
Silver Baronet of the Realm
- 6,887
- 8,714
Yep, that's the screw. I have no freaking idea why you'd use that type of screw INSIDE your home but yeah... C clamp idea won't work because the lock is flush against the other glass door, so the opposite side is unavailable. Drilling it out is an idea... I have some drill bits but I'll be damned if I know if they are wood or metal (gift from way before the house, so I didn't pay attention - "yay tools!" fuck I hate tools... lol) I'll have to see about digging those out tomorrow.
Uber Uberest
rdr^2
- 2,717
- 2,337
finished backsplash. Used oxide ledgestone from lowes, varying thicknesses, wasn't sure how it would play out with outlet covers but it worked out fine.
Used schluter profiles on edges to tie into stainless steel back splash. They really dress up an edge and hide shitty cuts.
Used schluter profiles on edges to tie into stainless steel back splash. They really dress up an edge and hide shitty cuts.
- 46,750
- 215,270
I went to great lengths to recess that fridge back to counter depth. If it can't fit a pizza box then it's worthless to me
- 26,238
- 39,962
Has anyone ever attempted cast concrete? I have a fireplace bottom, that is now brick, that I want to cover with a piece of stone/concrete, but its roughly 89"x 23" and I want it about 2" thick so its pretty big (See below CAD drawing). I have been looking into casting some counter top grade concrete for this slab. I figure when all is said and done it will cost me about $150, including the melamine form material to build the form and the #10 reinforcement metal to keep it from cracking, which is not bad and im sure I could not touch a real piece of stone for that price. jsut wondering if anyone here ever attempted this before to see where the pitfalls are and if its worth the effort.
I have been looking at some youtube stuff on this over the past few weeks and they have a ton of resources on this stuff that goes over the entire process. Some even discuss some advanced ways of using fiber reinforced concrete as a backer with a coat of sprayed on concrete for the finished visible part. Its quite interesting. and personally I love the look of this stuff compared to granite and other natural occurring stones. Im just going to use the old fashioned standard form casting method.
The plan is to see how this goes and whether its worth the effort and see how the finished product looks. Then, if this works out, I will be incorporating this to my kitchen redo which will probably be next year sometime. (I plan to build all the cabinets one by one this winter and spring).
As far as the family room project is going, I have everything pretty much done except for the fireplace and mantle. The walls and trim are up and primed. So once this is all finished up, just paint, install carpet and its done. It has taken me all summer to do this, but I was lazy as fuck. could of probably done it all within a few weeks, but I took my time and it looks outstanding so far.
And here is my kitchen cabinets all designed up, ( Im slow at work, lol)
What you cant see in that picture is every piece of wood/plywood is designed to scale including drawers and doors. So all I have to do is produce some drawings and im all ready to go cabinet by cabinet. (what is not shown is the wall cabinets)
I have been looking at some youtube stuff on this over the past few weeks and they have a ton of resources on this stuff that goes over the entire process. Some even discuss some advanced ways of using fiber reinforced concrete as a backer with a coat of sprayed on concrete for the finished visible part. Its quite interesting. and personally I love the look of this stuff compared to granite and other natural occurring stones. Im just going to use the old fashioned standard form casting method.
The plan is to see how this goes and whether its worth the effort and see how the finished product looks. Then, if this works out, I will be incorporating this to my kitchen redo which will probably be next year sometime. (I plan to build all the cabinets one by one this winter and spring).
As far as the family room project is going, I have everything pretty much done except for the fireplace and mantle. The walls and trim are up and primed. So once this is all finished up, just paint, install carpet and its done. It has taken me all summer to do this, but I was lazy as fuck. could of probably done it all within a few weeks, but I took my time and it looks outstanding so far.
And here is my kitchen cabinets all designed up, ( Im slow at work, lol)
What you cant see in that picture is every piece of wood/plywood is designed to scale including drawers and doors. So all I have to do is produce some drawings and im all ready to go cabinet by cabinet. (what is not shown is the wall cabinets)