Homesteading and Hobby Farm/Ranch

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Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
property water.png
elevation.png


Shitty photoshop but this is me and roughly where the water comes. Stays fairly narrow on south, but as it hits the field north is when it tends to spread out. and just make everything mush. Geo whatever showing the big hill we are downslope from. Has a big ol radio tower on it and everything.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
Also further proof my wife is incapable about being serious and not treating us as her personal petting zoo.

 
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The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
<Gold Donor>
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I feel like you’re doing good if you’re only losing one chicken to random death every quarter.
Results. Izo Izo can you interpret this? I think maybe it’s blood clots in the liver?
IMG_7202.jpeg
 

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
<Gold Donor>
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I have a pond that is a little leaky on the back end, i'm not sure if it's good that it's holding a fair amount back or bad that it then kinda slow releases a bunch. There's kinda like 2 broad paths of water that reach the back field but they are rather wide, so I think I'd have to do some pretty precise sloping to try and get everything into one narrow channel and go out the back.

First post think I said, I'm on a pretty good hill where it flattens a bit with some properties before continuing downhill. As such we get a lot of runoff. Like 12 hours after a storm there's still water flowin in the road and I stay soggy for a longer time than most would expect say in town.
You should look into using earthworks to harvest your runoff. I just started reading Brad lancaster’s books on rainwater harvesting and liking them so far
 

Sudo

Blackwing Lair Raider
580
2,340
View attachment 523915View attachment 523916

Shitty photoshop but this is me and roughly where the water comes. Stays fairly narrow on south, but as it hits the field north is when it tends to spread out. and just make everything mush. Geo whatever showing the big hill we are downslope from. Has a big ol radio tower on it and everything.
google for <your county> GIS map. Most of the public free GIS maps have a 2' elevation layer that might help
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
google for <your county> GIS map. Most of the public free GIS maps have a 2' elevation layer that might help
I was just trying to kinda show yall what I'm working with. I am kinda curious if I could landscape a bit and try to get it going thru like one little culvert in the field with like a drive over ramp w/ a drainage pipe without uprooting too much of the field doing it. I mean sure I could pay thousands and some land company, but I know they;d tear it up and not really worth the kind of money. Basically my tractor myself and trying to do most things cheap as possible.

Donkeys running rampant last 48 hours. Got into a bag of trash, flipped whole porch table and the grill on top, keep partially tearing down a improvised wall dividing off my cranky geese from my laying good ones. And now have learned they are strong enough to drag open the 6-7 foot wide wood and wire fence into the chicken pen to go terrorize them.

I'm almost ready to accept wifes demand that if I sell the donkeys she gets a cow. Not sure how much upkeep one needs beyond her wanting a expensive mini. (How much food, how much routine medical/hoof care etc vs just let it roam the field eating shitty grass and just watching for foot lameness and abscesses etc. I'd hope it'd ignore the goats mostly, now whether the emu's would leave it alone is another matter.
 

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
<Gold Donor>
47,632
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I was just trying to kinda show yall what I'm working with. I am kinda curious if I could landscape a bit and try to get it going thru like one little culvert in the field with like a drive over ramp w/ a drainage pipe without uprooting too much of the field doing it. I mean sure I could pay thousands and some land company, but I know they;d tear it up and not really worth the kind of money. Basically my tractor myself and trying to do most things cheap as possible.

Donkeys running rampant last 48 hours. Got into a bag of trash, flipped whole porch table and the grill on top, keep partially tearing down a improvised wall dividing off my cranky geese from my laying good ones. And now have learned they are strong enough to drag open the 6-7 foot wide wood and wire fence into the chicken pen to go terrorize them.

I'm almost ready to accept wifes demand that if I sell the donkeys she gets a cow. Not sure how much upkeep one needs beyond her wanting an expensive mini. (How much food, how much routine medical/hoof care etc vs just let it roam the field eating shitty grass and just watching for foot lameness and abscesses etc. I'd hope it'd ignore the goats mostly, now whether the emu's would leave it alone is another matter.
Trying to understand - so is that a river that overflows and water goes to multiple areas you’ve drawn?

Have you considered rain gardens? Planting trees, shrubs, grasses etc that are super thirsty?

My concern with you pulling it all into one drainage pipe and then culvert is

1. if you don’t do the math on the watershed drainage correctly and size the culvert/drainage adequately you can screw things up. Think for instance the culvert backing up, water pressure increases, water coming out of culvert becomes a blaster that erodes the drainage ground (if not using pipe connection at culvert) on the other side of culvert. The book I mentioned earlier by Lancaster goes over this.

2. It sounds like you may have a great opportunity to harvest rain water here. It seems like you need the correct earthscapes and vision. It sounds like you want the current area that’s flooding to be a field for your donkeys(?) If so I’d look for a gentle way to divert the water to trees/plants that produce food. The best way to control rain water is right where it falls, I.e. not tying it all into one drain making a giant river. If you can find a balance here it may be ideal.

Again, you really should calculate your watershed numbers. The book I recommended goes into detail on how to do that in order to size your earthworks.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
Need a chainsaw for collecting random trees people have for free. Probably trying to find something running used. Any non foler/burns hyper autism Wikipedia replies on anything I should look or avoid? I've heard various things about a lot of brands names being shit now. I just want what's going to be the easiest reliably/ maintenance over the most power/ convenient.
 
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BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
<Silver Donator>
14,670
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Can't go wrong with Stihl or Husqvarna. I have one of each with a 24" bar on both of them and I can tear some shit up but actually if it can get the job done, my favorite saw to use is my 14" Makita electric one. It's so light and quiet and you never have any trouble starting it, and you can actually wield it with one hand if necessary. It's not up to a lot of bigger jobs, but when it can get the job done it's wonderful.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
Can't go wrong with Stihl or Husqvarna. I have one of each with a 24" bar on both of them and I can tear some shit up but actually if it can get the job done, my favorite saw to use is my 14" Makita electric one. It's so light and quiet and you never have any trouble starting it, and you can actually wield it with one hand if necessary. It's not up to a lot of bigger jobs, but when it can get the job done it's wonderful.
We had a shitty craftsman electric ice used near the house the wife got for crazy reasons.

Mostly attacking downed trees so maybe can get away with a 16/18 inch. Local pawnshop has plenty right now but some of them are 2-300 and I really wider what they were new.

Are they all carbed or can I actually get fuel injected for less fiddling
 

The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
<Gold Donor>
47,632
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Need a chainsaw for collecting random trees people have for free. Probably trying to find something running used. Any non foler/burns hyper autism Wikipedia replies on anything I should look or avoid? I've heard various things about a lot of brands names being shit now. I just want what's going to be the easiest reliably/ maintenance over the most power/ convenient.
Uhhh ok. Just get a stihl 261 c-m on a 16” or 18” guide bar and call it a day. It’s a buy for life chainsaw.
 

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
<Silver Donator>
14,670
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Are they all carbed or can I actually get fuel injected for less fiddling
Stihl actually makes a fuel injected saw (500i) but it's a $1600 beast with a 28" bar on it. Anything that's appropriate for back 40 use is going to be carbureted.
 

whoo

<Silver Donator>
1,354
5,950
We had a shitty craftsman electric ice used near the house the wife got for crazy reasons.

Mostly attacking downed trees so maybe can get away with a 16/18 inch. Local pawnshop has plenty right now but some of them are 2-300 and I really wider what they were new.

Are they all carbed or can I actually get fuel injected for less fiddling
Buy a saw that you can get parts for and where there's a factory authorized repair shop nearby.

Otherwise you'll be buying another used saw in 18-24 months.

Stihl /Husqvarna if you're in the US. If you have Stihl in your area look for a "farm boss" or MS260 series with a 20" bar. Great saw. Run Stihl MotoMix in it and you'll never have an engine /carb problem. Husqvarna is good too, but they are not big in my area, so I use Stihl.

FWIW, I own 6 Stihl saws, incliding the 12' pole saw, a backpack plower, Kombi (hedge trimmer/weedeater). They have been good to me.

If it starts when you buy it and runs ok, I recommend changing the air filter, fuel filter, spark plug, and run new MotoMix through it at full throttle for a few minutes to clean out any gum. If it doesn't have any mechanical problems, it should be good to you for 30 years or more.
 
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Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
25,443
33,203
Get what you can get serviced locally. I have a Dolmar chainsaw, they had two versions of a smilar saw. One a professional and one for a homeowner. The professional was a little lighter was the main thing. At the time when I bought it they had a place not far from me and a lot of the loggers carried one as their one chainsaw they carried (in the cab of the loader). The got bought by Makita and I'm not really sure what happened after that. Sachs used to be part of it to at one time, no idea what happened to that. At least locally saw a lot of Dolmar in the timber industry but logging in the southeast now is almost all machine done and the only chainsaw on a site will be to trim a log that's too long when loaded and about to drive out.
 

Borzak

Bronze Baron of the Realm
25,443
33,203
Buy chaps if you don't have a lot of experience with a chain saw which if you do you probably already own them.

 
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The_Black_Log Foler

PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
<Gold Donor>
47,632
42,863
Buy chaps if you don't have a lot of experience with a chain saw which if you do you probably already own them.


The amount of times chaps have saved my nuts from popping a chain due to making a return cut is greater than the 5 fingers I still have on one hand. Also recommend helmet with face guard.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
I have a little grazonNext or whatever left. Double the price or more than simple 2-4d. Think it's worth it? I'm out with a small pull behind and hand sprayer working on some toxic milkweeds that are here and there in my pasture.

I'm also looking for a cheap version of basically ground clear because I think I want to spray my front black chainlink fence line to try and keep it clear. (And probably try to go in and do a thin strip of rock or something to kinda cover the inch or so gap at the bottom/slow down future weeds until I spray again.
 

Sludig

Potato del Grande
9,921
10,569
Havnt gotten to a dealer to talk about a a 261 yet with 20".

As fairly light use asi think I am, kinda tempted to gamble on this especially if he'll drop forget to like 220. 251c 18"