What vehicle do you drive?

Hekotat

Hekotat

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The Audi A3 is sex, to me anyways. I've also recently fell in love with the S2. I saw one for the first time the other day and I've been drooling over them ever since.

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On another note, going to try and start the 86 this weekend. I have to fab up some tubing and a few other small things, I really hope I don't hit any snags.
 
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Burren

Burren

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Just say no, Kids:

Stance%20meme%20-%2003.png


Hekotat Hekotat From the sounds of things, you shouldn't have any strange issues now, right? It looked pretty well sorted. All the wiring has been replaced? Everything rubber too?
 
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kegkilla

kegkilla

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Hekotat said:
The Audi A3 is sex, to me anyways. I've also recently fell in love with the S2. I saw one for the first time the other day and I've been drooling over them ever since.

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On another note, going to try and start the 86 this weekend. I have to fab up some tubing and a few other small things, I really hope I don't hit any snags.
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Those cars are fucking tiny.
 
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Hekotat

Hekotat

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Burren said:
Just say no, Kids:

View attachment 121412

Hekotat Hekotat From the sounds of things, you shouldn't have any strange issues now, right? It looked pretty well sorted. All the wiring has been replaced? Everything rubber too?
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Yeah, I'm not worried about the wiring. I'm worried about the oil pan seal and fuel pump seals, those always make me nervous on a new build, if they leak I'll have to rip it all back apart. I have to fab a bunch of stuff up as well and I really just want to start it tomorrow. I hope I don't get caught up on one small issue that keeps it from getting to that point.

I'm not for super stanced cars, but I think that is pretty good looking.
 
Cad

Cad

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You couldn't actually drive that car around. Nor the slicks/skinnies corvette setup pictured. "Stanced" shouldn't mean it's hellaflush and slammed to 1" ground clearance. Should just mean there's not a 6" fender gap with the tire 3" inside the fender.

People take it too far and make the car impractical/stupid/extreme looking.
 
Hekotat

Hekotat

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More than likely it's bagged, it does look retarded in that Corvette picture, the S2 picture is about as far as I would go and only if I had bags, I'm too fucking old to be riding around that low anymore.
 
Cad

Cad

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Hekotat said:
More than likely it's bagged, it does look retarded in that Corvette picture, the S2 picture is about as far as I would go and only if I had bags, I'm too fucking old to be riding around that low anymore.
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I don't get those air suspension cars, I've had plenty of height adjustable suspensions and if you touch the height even 1mm your alignment is screwed... and these guys are raising the car up and down several inches?
 
Burren

Burren

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Yeah, but they only care about a certain look, not driving around enthusiastically, or wearing the tires evenly.

The Vette in the picture is set up for drag racing, not street driving. It's a silly comparison, but still somewhat valid. Nasty camber and "stance" needs to go away. But, I absolutely agree on a flush tire/wheel to the fender and a reasonable gap, rather than stock ride height (The Germans are much better about this, for factory cars, thankfully).
 
Jysin

Jysin

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Cad said:
I don't get those air suspension cars, I've had plenty of height adjustable suspensions and if you touch the height even 1mm your alignment is screwed... and these guys are raising the car up and down several inches?
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On those cars which are not designed for it, the alignments do go to shit. You end up driving on the inside wheel and have a contact patch a fraction of the normal size. aka, your car can't handle for shit due to lack of traction. There are vehicles designed specifically for air suspensions though. Land Rover has been using EAS for ~10 years now and has about 6" of normal play (-2" to +4") with an additional +3" extended mode. They run just fine.
 
Cad

Cad

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Jysin said:
On those cars which are not designed for it, the alignments do go to shit. You end up driving on the inside wheel and have a contact patch a fraction of the normal size. aka, your car can't handle for shit due to lack of traction. There are vehicles designed specifically for air suspensions though. Land Rover has been using EAS for ~10 years now and has about 6" of normal play (-2" to +4") with an additional +3" extended mode. They run just fine.
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Sure but they're doing it on 80's/90's Japanese econocars so they can be hella slammed. Not the same thing at all.
 
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Hekotat

Hekotat

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Cad said:
I don't get those air suspension cars, I've had plenty of height adjustable suspensions and if you touch the height even 1mm your alignment is screwed... and these guys are raising the car up and down several inches?
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Most of those guys running the insane camber and low are on bags, most of those setups have 3 settings, laying frame, desired driving height and fully raised to get over speedbumps and such. You get your alignment dialed in at the middle setting then switch to laying frame when you want to take pictures.
 
Cad

Cad

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I guess since these aren't actual sports car people and are just posers, they probably don't care that it won't be exactly right or come back to exactly the same place.

Tesla has air suspension also and it moves around a lot (even when driving) to lower the car at speed for less air resistance, need to check and see how that works.
 
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latheboy

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Jysin said:
Honestly, an intake and an exhaust mod are not going to alter your air fuel ratio enough to worry about running lean / hot cylinders. Would it be great to run a tune? Absolutely! Is it at all necessary? No.
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Ummm,

I work with Dyno's for a living.
If you make any change to the air or fuel system you need to get a tune.
Not only for power but for fuel economy, you might make all these cool go fast changes only to find you are using double the fuel and have less power.
Changing just the OEM air filter to a high flow type can massively change the Air/Fuel Ratio.
Now add a Turbo for more fun.
Cool air pipe and Dump pipe WILL change the AFR, more air getting in will lean the engine out.
Most OEM ECU's cannot handle the massive difference these changes make.
Turbos need a rebuild every (rough guide)150,000 Km's... for you backwards guys that's 93205 miles :)
Turbo lag can be a stuffed turbo, get it checked out and maybe get it rebuilt.
There's no point on spending money on go fast parts (cold air/dump pipe) if the turbo is stuffed.
 
Hekotat

Hekotat

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Aamry said:
Isn't that what MAP and MAF sensors are for?
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Yes and no, some cars do use them to tell the ECU how much air is coming in so that it can adjust the amount of fuel coming in, however, some cars don't use them at all. Mine uses a wideband sensor in the exhaust so that you can tune the air/fuel ratio. Most OEM cars come with what is a called a narrowband sensor. The manufacturer will get the engine completely dialed in where it is "Safe" and then hardcode that into the ECU. They then use a narrowband which only reads a narrow range of AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) to make adjustments depending on throttle, altitude, air density, etc.

Now, if you throw a turbo or NOS onto a car with an OEM ECU with a narrowband, it's not going to know what to do because it was designed to run a very specific and limited AFR and you'll blow your shit up. You're then forced to go with an aftermarket ECU option and tune (Certain manufacturers work with certain companies for OEM tunes). An aftermarket ECU becomes even more of a necessity if you do a foreign engine swap into your car or do some stupid Frankenstein shit like I'm doing and your stroke and ignition timing are thrown way off from OEM.
 
Cad

Cad

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Hekotat said:
Yes and no, some cars do use them to tell the ECU how much air is coming in so that it can adjust the amount of fuel coming in, however, some cars don't use them at all. Mine uses a wideband sensor in the exhaust so that you can tune the air/fuel ratio. Most OEM cars come with what is a called a narrowband sensor. The manufacturer will get the engine completely dialed in where it is "Safe" and then hardcode that into the ECU. They then use a narrowband which only reads a narrow range of AFR (Air Fuel Ratio) to make adjustments depending on throttle, altitude, air density, etc.

Now, if you throw a turbo or NOS onto a car with an OEM ECU with a narrowband, it's not going to know what to do because it was designed to run a very specific and limited AFR and you'll blow your shit up. You're then forced to go with an aftermarket ECU option and tune (Certain manufacturers work with certain companies for OEM tunes). An aftermarket ECU becomes even more of a necessity if you do a foreign engine swap into your car or do some stupid Frankenstein shit like I'm doing and your stroke and ignition timing are thrown way off from OEM.
Click to expand...

Most of the newer generation turbo cars also have widebands in the exhaust from the factory and run closed loop even at WOT. You only need a tune if it runs out of fuel trim range or you want to up the boost/change timing etc.

To be fair the tune is usually the most bang/buck mod on newer cars so people generally do it first but it's not "necessary" like it used to be.

Filp side I remember in my DSM days I had a full exhaust, intercooler, and boost controller running great before I got a VPC/GCC and 550cc injectors... haha such low tech shit back then.
 
Jysin

Jysin

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latheboy said:
Ummm,

I work with Dyno's for a living.
If you make any change to the air or fuel system you need to get a tune.
Not only for power but for fuel economy, you might make all these cool go fast changes only to find you are using double the fuel and have less power.
Changing just the OEM air filter to a high flow type can massively change the Air/Fuel Ratio.
Now add a Turbo for more fun.
Cool air pipe and Dump pipe WILL change the AFR, more air getting in will lean the engine out.
Most OEM ECU's cannot handle the massive difference these changes make.
Turbos need a rebuild every (rough guide)150,000 Km's... for you backwards guys that's 93205 miles :)
Turbo lag can be a stuffed turbo, get it checked out and maybe get it rebuilt.
There's no point on spending money on go fast parts (cold air/dump pipe) if the turbo is stuffed.
Click to expand...

I literally built and owned the fastest privately owned MKIV Supra in the UK many moons ago. The only faster cars were owned by tuner shops. I'd provide links, but it would reveal my IRL name here. ... only point this out because you assert yourself as a dyno professional. Again, I said with only an intake / exhaust you are not going to need the tune. Here you are going on about adding turbos and DPs. No shit you would need a tune after that.
 
Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

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I wonder if I will need to re-tune my car if I fundamentally change how the intake compression airflow etc work with a turbo or some such? Anyone here know?
 
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