Woodworking

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Dandai

Dandai

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Bandwagon said:
I'm going to get a spray gun to use with minwax water based polycrylic. Anything I need to know? I've only used a spray gun a few times.
Planning on swinging by home depot on my way out of town in a couple hours when I finish this job.
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Have the self discipline to clean the gun and the bowl after every use if you want to use it more than once. It won’t be permanently wrecked if you skip it once, but the cleanup is so much more effort after it’s cured.
 
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whoo

whoo

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Bandwagon said:
I'm going to get a spray gun to use with minwax water based polycrylic. Anything I need to know? I've only used a spray gun a few times.
Planning on swinging by home depot on my way out of town in a couple hours when I finish this job.
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Read this: What’s the Difference? Polycrylic vs Polyurethane

If you're not familiar with the difference between polyurethane and polycrylic. It's not the most durable of the clear finishes, and it's the least water resistant. It is thin (runny) so easy to spray with less or no thinning, and it's waterborne, so no VOC.

For tables, I prefer catalyzed lacquer, which is extremely durable, waterproof, and very resistant to solvents like alcohol (spilled drinks) once cured.
 
Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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whoo said:
Read this: What’s the Difference? Polycrylic vs Polyurethane

If you're not familiar with the difference between polyurethane and polycrylic. It's not the most durable of the clear finishes, and it's the least water resistant. It is thin (runny) so easy to spray with less or no thinning, and it's waterborne, so no VOC.

For tables, I prefer catalyzed lacquer, which is extremely durable, waterproof, and very resistant to solvents like alcohol (spilled drinks) once cured.
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I've read up on the difference between the two a little bit ago and the main thing that ended up being the decider for me was that polyurethane tends to yellow under UV light and polycrylic does not. Correct?

I'm really just looking for something that I can apply to stained wood, grout and inked ceramic at the same time. Non toxic, durable and a glossy finish. If there's a better option than polycrylic, point me at something and give me a kick in the ass.
 
Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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I picked up a husky kit with 2 spray guns for $90. It was $80 just for the HVLP one, so I got the kid with both for 10 more.

Just set it up and was playing around with water. I'm excited to try this thing tonight. Daughters bedtime is going to get bumped up by an hour so I can play with my toys.
 
whoo

whoo

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Bandwagon said:
I've read up on the difference between the two a little bit ago and the main thing that ended up being the decider for me was that polyurethane tends to yellow under UV light and polycrylic does not. Correct?

I'm really just looking for something that I can apply to stained wood, grout and inked ceramic at the same time. Non toxic, durable and a glossy finish. If there's a better option than polycrylic, point me at something and give me a kick in the ass.
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Yep, polyurethane can yellow, especially the oil based kind but it is much more durable than polycrylic. Post catalyzed lacquer will be the most durable of all. Regardless, spray when the humidity is low (<50%) and use 4-6 light coats according to the directions. If you spray too heavy polycrylic will dry milky looking. Make sure you let it cure for a full 7 days after the final coat before using it.

All of your other options will have some yellowing, from a small amount to a moderate amount. Even epoxy or bar coat. Clear coating whites is tough for that reason, although a small amount of amber might add some antique patina :) the most durable clear spray finish will be post catalyzed lacquer, but that does yellow a bit. It's all tradeoffs.

Good luck!
 
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whoo

whoo

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For polycrylic? Not really. The minwax formula is fine and easily sourced at home centers. Otherwise go to a professional finishing supply or a Sherwin Williams and get what they recommend.
 
Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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whoo said:
For polycrylic? Not really. The minwax formula is fine and easily sourced at home centers. Otherwise go to a professional finishing supply or a Sherwin Williams and get what they recommend.
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Lol no dude. For the stuff you're recommending.
 
whoo

whoo

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If you have a Sherwin-Williams store near you, go there and ask them for SherWood catalyzed lacquer (clear Semi Gloss would be a good choice IMO)

BUT! Ask them if it will stick to the tile you have. Bring a sample tile with you. It just occurred to me that the tiles you have probably have a finish (ceramic glaze?) already on them and it might interfere with *any* finish you put on. You may have to spray a clear shellac as a base coat before any kind of finish. Definitely get their advice on that. Last thing you want is your finish not to stick.
 
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Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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I normally sand them with course grit after inking so the poly will adhere. I'll go check out the store though.

And holy shit this spray gun is awesome. So much easier to get an even coat, and way faster.
 
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Zapatta

Zapatta

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fucking amateurs. get someone to mill saw those logs

buy some Clear Casting Epoxy | Entropy Resins


and Make ' water tables '., its what all the cool kids are doing.


this-blue-river-epoxy-table-is-absolutely-stunning-2440.jpg
maxresdefault.jpg
wooden-table-with-crashing-wave-resin-desing.jpg
 
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Intrinsic

Intrinsic

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I just can't get behind this whole resin craze thing and honestly the live edge stuff also. Just not my style at all.

Went to a fall fest this weekend with a lot of small stalls set up from local crafts and one of (because there's always 2 or 3) cutting board guys had a bunch of boards with a resin channel in the middle. It reminds me of lava lamps or tie dye.

Speaking of stupid things... Finally got a second to play with the DW735 this weekend and boy do I have a lot to learn about using it. After tripping the circuit about 150 times, moving it from plug to plug and turning on and off various other things in the shop, pretty much worked it out. Also it was crazy to me just how sensitive the depth change is when I was planing this hickory. A quarter turn or so just really seemed like it was bogging down, but that also had to do with the fact that the circuit kept tripping. But then again hickory is very hard. I picked a good one to start with.
 
Dandai

Dandai

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Intrinsic said:
I just can't get behind this whole resin craze thing and honestly the live edge stuff also. Just not my style at all.

Went to a fall fest this weekend with a lot of small stalls set up from local crafts and one of (because there's always 2 or 3) cutting board guys had a bunch of boards with a resin channel in the middle. It reminds me of lava lamps or tie dye.

Speaking of stupid things... Finally got a second to play with the DW735 this weekend and boy do I have a lot to learn about using it. After tripping the circuit about 150 times, moving it from plug to plug and turning on and off various other things in the shop, pretty much worked it out. Also it was crazy to me just how sensitive the depth change is when I was planing this hickory. A quarter turn or so just really seemed like it was bogging down, but that also had to do with the fact that the circuit kept tripping. But then again hickory is very hard. I picked a good one to start with.
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Matthias talked a bit about this in his most recent random stuff vid. The starting current spikes as high as 50 amps for that planer.

Here’s the video, but I only recommend watching if you find that stuff interesting:

 
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BrutulTM

BrutulTM

Good, bad, I'm the guy with the gun.
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Is it a lot of work to do the live edge/resin thing? We had a guy make a kitchen counter top for my Mom's house out of a piece of cedar my dad had milled off of the ranch years ago. He was a friend so we didn't talk about price and were pretty shocked when he billed us $2400 for it. He did a great job and he said he had 40+ hours into it so we didn't complain but I had not been expecting that much. There were some other aspects to it, it wasn't just a simple one, but it didn't seem that hard to me.
 
Bandwagon

Bandwagon

Kolohe
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Intrinsic said:
I just can't get behind this whole resin craze thing and honestly the live edge stuff also. Just not my style at all.

Went to a fall fest this weekend with a lot of small stalls set up from local crafts and one of (because there's always 2 or 3) cutting board guys had a bunch of boards with a resin channel in the middle. It reminds me of lava lamps or tie dye.

Speaking of stupid things... Finally got a second to play with the DW735 this weekend and boy do I have a lot to learn about using it. After tripping the circuit about 150 times, moving it from plug to plug and turning on and off various other things in the shop, pretty much worked it out. Also it was crazy to me just how sensitive the depth change is when I was planing this hickory. A quarter turn or so just really seemed like it was bogging down, but that also had to do with the fact that the circuit kept tripping. But then again hickory is very hard. I picked a good one to start with.
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I really like all of the options with Resin, but I'm pretty tired of seeing the live edge tables too. There's way more you could be doing with the concept. If I ever get access to a big CNC router, I want to do a round coffee table of Crater Lake, OR and fill it with resin. Fill all of the bathymetry with a blueish resin and everything above the waterline with clear.
 
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