Woodworking

Bandwagon · Mar 14, 2022

Captain Suave said:
Relevant technique at timestamp. Basically, you mark out at least two different reference angles plus a scrap block/protractor and eyeball it. You'll get withing a handful of degrees, which is close enough.

Thanks! I'll give this a watch, but the description sounds right.

BrutulTM said:
You only think that because you don't have one.

I had one before, for about 2 years. I think I used it 4 times for something my cordless could have done. But I wasn't really "making" stuff back then, so we'll see how many times I find myself wanting one nowadays. So far, this is #1

Zapatta · Mar 14, 2022

Bandwagon said:
What's the "easiest" way to drill something at a specific angle, without requiring some tool I don't have (drill press) or obscure jigs that are going to take me more work to build than what I want to make? Drill press is one of the last "big" shop tools that I have on my list to pick up, but I just about -never- have a need for one so I haven't really been motivated to get one.

This table / legs is the general idea
View attachment 403322

General Tools used to make these and they were very inexpensive ($30-40), I probably have 3 of them between 10 and 30 yrs of age. Pretty much any decent hardware store used to carry them. Last time I tried to find another one I couldnt find it in the General Tools catalog, I think Garret Wade makes a copy. Sometimes you can find NIB GT ones on Ebay.

They are handy to have.

Try to find aluminum body ones, the plastic ones get hot and the bearings melt the plastic bodies of the cheap ones and sieze up if you are doing production number of holes..

EDIT -

Garret Wade version

Portable Drill Guide Jig

A drill guide jig can help you get more control over your hand-held drill for projects that need additional precision and accuracy. Shop our guide jig today!

garrettwade.com

Bandwagon · Mar 15, 2022

Zapatta said:
General Tools used to make these and they were very inexpensive ($30-40), I probably have 3 of them between 10 and 30 yrs of age. Pretty much any decent hardware store used to carry them. Last time I tried to find another one I couldnt find it in the General Tools catalog, I think Garret Wade makes a copy. Sometimes you can find NIB GT ones on Ebay.

They are handy to have.

Try to find aluminum body ones, the plastic ones get hot and the bearings melt the plastic bodies of the cheap ones and sieze up if you are doing production number of holes..

EDIT -

Garret Wade version

Portable Drill Guide Jig

A drill guide jig can help you get more control over your hand-held drill for projects that need additional precision and accuracy. Shop our guide jig today!

garrettwade.com

Yea buddy, thats what I'm looking for. Not seeing a metal one so far, but I'll look in the morning on desktop. Thanks!

Zapatta · Mar 15, 2022

Bandwagon said:
Yea buddy, thats what I'm looking for. Not seeing a metal one so far, but I'll look in the morning on desktop. Thanks!

Like I said I have at least 1 that is 30 yrs old, so an Ebay metal body one from a barn find is probably better than a new plastic one from a hardware store. Plastic ones work fine for DIY homeowners, but I use them to drill hundreds of holes a day, the plastic doesnt last for industrial purposes..

BrutulTM · Mar 15, 2022

It's not that you can't do things with a cordless drill, it's just so much more precise with a drill press. I do a lot of metal work more than wood and it's even more essential for that. If you do have a drill press, you can just make a little triangle to set your piece on and get the same angle on every hole. I did something like this when I was doing angled mortises, but I didn't make it adjustable like this one. Just a permanent 10 degree wedge.

Probably overkill for wood but I also have one of these...

and one of these...

On my drill press which really lets me put holes right where I want them in metal.

Intrinsic · Mar 16, 2022

Going to make a small bar / murphy bar for a friend and was wanting to match it to a hanging bar sign they have. Based on the website they bought the sign from it is supposedly and oak whiskey barrel top, so who am I to question that.

I don't really want to do it out of just a sheet of ply and white oak is $10+ bf but wasn't sure if I could get by with a Hickory or Cedar, which are both around $6 bf. Hickory I've used before but never done anything with oak or cedar.

Captain Suave · Mar 16, 2022

I think he may be overstating the near term case with housing starts given the coming interest rate hikes, but it's a fair take.

Burns · Mar 17, 2022

Intrinsic said:
Going to make a small bar / murphy bar for a friend and was wanting to match it to a hanging bar sign they have. Based on the website they bought the sign from it is supposedly and oak whiskey barrel top, so who am I to question that.

I don't really want to do it out of just a sheet of ply and white oak is $10+ bf but wasn't sure if I could get by with a Hickory or Cedar, which are both around $6 bf. Hickory I've used before but never done anything with oak or cedar.

View attachment 403685

No idea on wood "matching" different species, but how many lumber yards did you check prices on (if you have more than 1 or 2 in your area)? This place in DFW (South Ft. Worth), that lists their prices, has economy grade (2 com) white oak in both 4/4 and 8/4 for less than $5 per bf. So, if you don't need a long single run of boards, it may work.

No. 2A Common
Also known as “Economy” grade. Boards are 3″ and wider, 4′ and longer. Yields 50 percent clear face cuttings 3″ and wider by 2′ and longer. Grade of choice for US hardwood flooring industry.

No. 2B Common
Same as No. 2A Common, except that stain and other sound defects are admitted in the clear cuttings. An excellent paint grade.

Did a quick search, and found a counter on a murphy bar that has short boards and looks ok:

Intrinsic · Mar 17, 2022

Burns said:
No idea on wood "matching" different species, but how many lumber yards did you check prices on (if you have more than 1 or 2 in your area)? This place in DFW (South Ft. Worth), that lists their prices, has economy grade (2 com) white oak in both 4/4 and 8/4 for less than $5 per bf. So, if you don't need a long single run of boards, it may work.

No. 2A Common
Also known as “Economy” grade. Boards are 3″ and wider, 4′ and longer. Yields 50 percent clear face cuttings 3″ and wider by 2′ and longer. Grade of choice for US hardwood flooring industry.

No. 2B Common
Same as No. 2A Common, except that stain and other sound defects are admitted in the clear cuttings. An excellent paint grade.

Did a quick search, and found a counter on a murphy bar that has short boards and looks ok:

I’m going to drive around this weekend and try to find a place. The local hardwood spot I really like is a three hour round trip and I’ll pay more in gas than for 13 bf of lumber hah. But there’s gotta be a closer spot with more options than just Home Depot or Lowes. Last time I found a place that was open on Saturdays for 3 hours and that’s it.

Thanks for taking a look though. I do like that look and they drink primarily whiskey.

bigmark268 · Mar 22, 2022

So I was driving around today and found someone throwing out a jointer. It's a delta either 45 or 47. And it's in pretty decent condition, just dirty. Only thing it's missing a motor and the pulls for the motor. So restoration project here I come.

BrutulTM · Mar 22, 2022

Congratulations. Nice find. Love old tools.

Dandai · Mar 22, 2022

yeah that's awesome. take pity on the rest of us and take pics and share as you restore it!

Bandwagon · Mar 23, 2022

Hey

whoo - Can you recommend a decent hand plane? I picked one up at the hardware store last week, but it's a little piece of shit.

I was watching some videos on best hand plane practices and realized that the way you can adjust the depth of cut on the nicer hand planes is way easier to dial in than the one I bought.

Captain Suave · Mar 23, 2022

Bandwagon said:
recommend a decent hand plane? I picked one up at the hardware store last week, but it's a little piece of shit.

All the woodworking pundits will tell you to find one of the millions of cheap vintage tools on ebay or local flea markets, which in my experience don't exist or will take you months to procure. I ended up buying a package of Wood River planes. They're not inexpensive by any means, but they're still cheaper than Lie Nielson or Veritas and the quality is high. Sadly, I don't see a combo pack available now, but a couple years back I got a #4 1/2 smoother, a jointer, and a block plane for $350 total. They've been good for 95% of my needs. (The other 5% is a router plane.)

The crap you'll get at a box store isn't worth the constant frustration of being unable to hold the settings you want.

Hand Planes & Spokeshaves

Shop Hand Planes & Spokeshaves and more woodworking products for sale from Woodcraft! Buy online or find your local Woodcraft store. Free Shipping on select items.

www.woodcraft.com

Bandwagon · Mar 23, 2022

Thanks!

whoo · Mar 23, 2022

Bandwagon said:
Hey whoo - Can you recommend a decent hand plane? I picked one up at the hardware store last week, but it's a little piece of shit.

I was watching some videos on best hand plane practices and realized that the way you can adjust the depth of cut on the nicer hand planes is way easier to dial in than the one I bought.

Unless you want to restore a vintage plane, I'd go for Wood River (above average) @ Woodcraft stores, or Lee Valley (Veritas brand-excellent). Lie Nielsen is also top notch but very expensive.

Stick with a #4. You don't really need the 4 1/2 unless you want the extra weight for use with a shooting board.

All of them will require tuning when you get them. Even the Lie Nielsen, although less so than the Wood River. The Veritas has a different adjuster mechanism. I don't particularly like it. The others copy the original Leonard Bailey design.

Regardless, once you hone the iron and make sure the sole is flat, any of those will give you great results. There's great videos on youtube for sharpening and setting up bench planes. Especially the #4

Bandwagon · Mar 23, 2022

whoo said:
Unless you want to restore a vintage plane, I'd go for Wood River (above average) @ Woodcraft stores, or Lee Valley (Veritas brand-excellent). Lie Nielsen is also top notch but very expensive.

Stick with a #4. You don't really need the 4 1/2 unless you want the extra weight for use with a shooting board.

All of them will require tuning when you get them. Even the Lie Nielsen, although less so than the Wood River. The Veritas has a different adjuster mechanism. I don't particularly like it. The others copy the original Leonard Bailey design.

Regardless, once you hone the iron and make sure the sole is flat, any of those will give you great results. There's great videos on youtube for sharpening and setting up bench planes. Especially the #4

Great, thank you. I learned I was doing some silly shit on my first try after watching some videos, so looking forward to trying it again.

I never really used dowels to join wood before so I'm practicing that at the same time I'm practicing with the planer. I used all my shittiest pine scraps to practice, so of course I got myself into a pickle with planing practice because it's the knottiest wood in the shop.

Dandai · Mar 23, 2022

Bandwagon said:
Great, thank you. I learned I was doing some silly shit on my first try after watching some videos, so looking forward to trying it again.

I never really used dowels to join wood before so I'm practicing that at the same time I'm practicing with the planer. I used all my shittiest pine scraps to practice, so of course I got myself into a pickle with planing practice because it's the knottiest wood in the shop.

The video below may be relevant to your interests.The long and short of it is dowels reinforcing joints probably aren’t actually strengthening the joint. In his testing it looks like dowels are a wasted effort if you’re using dowels and glue.

Captain Suave · Mar 23, 2022

Dandai said:
The video below may be relevant to your interests.The long and short of it is dowels reinforcing joints probably aren’t actually strengthening the joint. In his testing it looks like dowels are a wasted effort if you’re using dowels and glue.

Worth noting that there's a difference here between "reinforcing" traditional joints with dowels and using dowels as the actual joining mechanism, a la a doweling jig. I assume he means the latter.

Bandwagon · Mar 23, 2022

This is what I was practicing on

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