Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Trying to figure out how to convince the wife I need one of these:
ALASKAN MKIV Archives - Granberg International
ALASKAN MKIV Archives - Granberg International
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Home Improvement
- Thread starter Picasso3
- Start date
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Guest, it's time once again for the massively important and exciting FoH Asshat Tournament!
Go here and give us your nominations!Who's been the biggest Asshat in the last year? Give us your worst ones!
Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Fuck wish I had thought to take down my smoke detectors, is it usual for one to go off over shower steam? Only went off once but fuck that noise.
BigErronius what do you think about my Nest install? Should I do it on my own?
Yeah, steam can trigger alarms. Not sure how common it is, though. In my experience, an occasional nuisance alarm is to be expected. Repeated alarms probably means a bad alarm, or someone put the alarm close to the bathroom and you regularly create a fuckton of steam.
The Nest install probably depends on you. If you feel like doing all the footwork, then sure. If you're not sure, then don't. Also consider the cost of paying an Installer to come out vs the cost of repairs or replacement if you wire something wrong.
The first thing I would do is get a copy of the installation guide for your current thermostat. Read up on it, figure out how it currently works, maybe even double check where each wire is actually landed. It looks like you have a TH8000 series thermostat...maybe a TH8320?
https://customer.honeywell.com/resources/techlit/TechLitDocuments/69-0000s/69-2693.pdf
The weird thing to me is that it doesn't look like you have any outdoor temp sensors installed (S1 and S2). Just skimming through the literature, it looks like this is how you set the temp lockouts for heat pumps so that depending on your outdoor temperature range, your aux heat runs w/o your heat pump compressor below one setpoint, or your heat pump compressor runs w/o your aux heat when it is above a setpoint. (Function 0350 and/or 0360) But I'm not an HVAC guy, so /shrug.
It's always a good idea, in my opinion, to write down all your existing settings in the current thermostat. But especially your O/B setting for your crossover valve (Function 0190, either 0 or 1) because it's probably specific to the make of your equipment (Trane, Rheem, etc). Yeah, it's super fucking tedious, but its your call.
Alasliasolonik
Toilet of the Mod Elect
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Erronius
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Tell her the alternative is to dig a giant pit in the backyard and to use a pit-saw
Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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If you’re serious I’m pretty sure I’ll be buying one soon. My grandmother recently passed (rest in peace) and left me a modest $5k inheritance that the wife and I have agreed to spending on stuff we wouldn’t normally buy for ourselves (we’re both pretty thrifty and live well beneath our means).
Daezuel
Potato del Grande
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Lol yeah it's an 8320 and it has an outdoor sensor right outside my garage.
I'd assume just wiring it up according to the heat pump side (on the outside right of the 8320) to the Nest is how it'd go (under their directions of course) Their settings control what the connections do thus why they want a PRO to install to make sure you don't leave the default on instead of changing it to a dual fuel system and I'd suspect setting the temp where the heat pump hands heating off to the furnace.
My furnace and heat pump are Coleman, not sure on the model #'s off the top of my head.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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i'm still mowing, this is only my second year mowing, so i forgot when i stopped, about when do we stop mowing-ish? is it usually dec? also i'm getting a lot of my bald spots patched up. grass seed doesn't really seem to be an issue, honestly i just buy whatever pennington/scotts or whatever on sale kentucky blue grass/tall fescue. But it seems milogranite really seems to work well as a "starter fertilizer"
I used to buy the scotts starter fertilizer to the lawn going but that didn't seem to be doing much. also it doesn't really seem to help if i use my own compost or just storebought compost for 2bucks a bag. Tho the store compost really attracts flies the first week out. (my compost pile is down to nothing now and its cold so i don't have much bacteria heat)
I used to buy the scotts starter fertilizer to the lawn going but that didn't seem to be doing much. also it doesn't really seem to help if i use my own compost or just storebought compost for 2bucks a bag. Tho the store compost really attracts flies the first week out. (my compost pile is down to nothing now and its cold so i don't have much bacteria heat)
Dandai
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Who’s “we” FRIEND? [I may be playing too much Red Dead Redemption.]
Depends on your grass type as far as when the last mow will be. A good rule of thumb is to let it get shaggy and mow it just enough to take the shag off of it. I mow my lawn at 3.5-4” (tallest my mower will let me go). The more leaf surface you leave intact, the better equipped it will be to do well over the winter.
Some people throw down a final application of milorganite/organic fert to “winterize” their lawn, but I’m not familiar with the practice or why they do it other than the freeze/thaw heaving works it into the soil really well.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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is this the fall/crabgrass preventer fert?
i didn't do this last year, and hardly got any crabgrass this year (when i moved in i did remove, literally buckets of crabgrass, and those barren spots are starting to fill in, just now).
Dandai
<WoW Guild Officer>
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Crabgrass is annual and dies the first time it frosts. As far as I know there isn’t a preemergent that will last long enough to stop next years crab grass if you put it down now. Here in NC we do 2-3 crab grass preemergent applications per year as they last 3 months. First one goes down in Feb, then 2nd one in April. If you’re seeding in the fall (cool season grasses) you can’t put down a third preemergent application or your seed won’t grow.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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Gonna be doing a lot of attic stuff
1. install 4-6 led can lights for my kitchen finally, saw a great deal on amazon 50bucks for 6, no housing needed.
thoughts on placement?
this is the previous owners pic. i figure i'll just have 2-3 on each side of the L
Then i'll finally wire up my security cam system. it's an 8 cam system that connects to a central hub that displays on a monitor and wired to my network. i've layed out 5 cams on the outside perimeter, 1 per side +1 for the front door/entry. the 3 left over i'll have garage/basement/living room.
I have two walk-in closets for the master bedroom. I was figuring out how to power it, then realized opposite the closet is the laundry room, so i measured and found the outlet for the washer wired it up and now my closet has power.
Since i'll have so many wires running to here, i figure i'll relocate my router/cable modem to here as well and wall hang em too. (that also means i'll finally fish cat5 to all my rooms, currently the computers/game systems are connected wired, but the wires lay on the floor, heh) i saw when some people do this, they put a layer of plywood over the wall first, then wall hang their network stuff, is this b/c the plywood gives a nice sturdy surface if you mount the plywood to the studs? (my stud is to the left of the outlet, basically the middle.
1. install 4-6 led can lights for my kitchen finally, saw a great deal on amazon 50bucks for 6, no housing needed.
thoughts on placement?
this is the previous owners pic. i figure i'll just have 2-3 on each side of the L
Then i'll finally wire up my security cam system. it's an 8 cam system that connects to a central hub that displays on a monitor and wired to my network. i've layed out 5 cams on the outside perimeter, 1 per side +1 for the front door/entry. the 3 left over i'll have garage/basement/living room.
I have two walk-in closets for the master bedroom. I was figuring out how to power it, then realized opposite the closet is the laundry room, so i measured and found the outlet for the washer wired it up and now my closet has power.
Since i'll have so many wires running to here, i figure i'll relocate my router/cable modem to here as well and wall hang em too. (that also means i'll finally fish cat5 to all my rooms, currently the computers/game systems are connected wired, but the wires lay on the floor, heh) i saw when some people do this, they put a layer of plywood over the wall first, then wall hang their network stuff, is this b/c the plywood gives a nice sturdy surface if you mount the plywood to the studs? (my stud is to the left of the outlet, basically the middle.
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Vinen
God is dead
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All I see is that there is no vent hood. Triggered by your kitchen as it is unusable.
Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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Lanx
<Prior Amod>
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with the way these natural disasters are going...
edit, i've done 2 lights so far, i think i'll only do 4 for now, i can always add the 2 later.
I also think i'll install some pull chain attic lights, wearing a headlamp and strapping a led strip to my waist is getting annoying.
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Anyone know what would cause hot water to cease from a one-handle faucet? Water flow is fine, it's just always cold no matter the position of the handle. If I go to another faucet and turn it on hot, hot water will come out the original. So, it seems the heater isn't registering a pressure drop and I can verify that while having the faucet on. Also, turning the faucet off causes a 1-2s lag while the flow tapers off and finally stop.
This all started after we had our heater replaced. We even paid them $189 for them to tell us it wasn't their fault. The guy obviously saw we were annoyed they were charging us for a service that we thought would be covered under the installation warranty, so he suggested replacing the mixing cartridge. I just finished doing that and there was no change in behavior.
This all started after we had our heater replaced. We even paid them $189 for them to tell us it wasn't their fault. The guy obviously saw we were annoyed they were charging us for a service that we thought would be covered under the installation warranty, so he suggested replacing the mixing cartridge. I just finished doing that and there was no change in behavior.
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Yes, it definitely is.
I have a Navien NCB-240E and I'm thinking the minimum pressure threshold is set too high. That's probably not the right term, sorry. But, what I observe:
Kitchen faucet on hot, full flow: 0.0 GPM
Some other faucet on hot, full flow: 1.0 GPM
Some other faucet and kitchen on hot, both full flow: 1.4 GPM
So, either the new boiler has been misconfigured to not register that 0.4 GPM from the kitchen. Or, some scale was dislodged during installation, wound up in the kitchen faucet, and lowered the flow on the kitchen faucet.
Going through some of the Moen spec sheets, it looks like they are all rated at 1.5 GPM, but none of my faucets pull that, so I'm not sure how helpful that spec is. Do one-handle faucets typically put a lower demand on the domestic hot water because they are always mixing hot with cold even at max hot.
Min flow is 0.5 GPM on my boiler. Spec Sheet-NCB-E Series | Navien
So, how do I find what's restricting the flow in the faucet if it wasn't the cartridge?
I have a Navien NCB-240E and I'm thinking the minimum pressure threshold is set too high. That's probably not the right term, sorry. But, what I observe:
Kitchen faucet on hot, full flow: 0.0 GPM
Some other faucet on hot, full flow: 1.0 GPM
Some other faucet and kitchen on hot, both full flow: 1.4 GPM
So, either the new boiler has been misconfigured to not register that 0.4 GPM from the kitchen. Or, some scale was dislodged during installation, wound up in the kitchen faucet, and lowered the flow on the kitchen faucet.
Going through some of the Moen spec sheets, it looks like they are all rated at 1.5 GPM, but none of my faucets pull that, so I'm not sure how helpful that spec is. Do one-handle faucets typically put a lower demand on the domestic hot water because they are always mixing hot with cold even at max hot.
Min flow is 0.5 GPM on my boiler. Spec Sheet-NCB-E Series | Navien
So, how do I find what's restricting the flow in the faucet if it wasn't the cartridge?
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