What vehicle do you drive?

Siliconemelons

Siliconemelons

Avatar of War Slayer
11,600
17,356
Fucker said:
...and they are the things most people completely skimp on, at least for normal use. I might as well toss car manufacturers on the "most people" heap, too. They are putting genuine shit on vehicles these days. Poor traction, noisy, dead at 20k miles.

When I do brakes, it is new top quality rotors with new matching pads 100% of the time. New calipers if needed, and complete brake fluid flush every 3 years. Best tires for the application = cheapest insurance money can buy.

Life is too short to put up with long stopping distances and getting stuck in bad weather.
Click to expand...

They must get some cheap knock off version for OEM's - I have Michelin's that are rated like 50k and they are at wearbar at 17.5k - and you cant pro-rate turn them in because they are OEM... or are all of theirs just drastically not reaching their wear numbers?

Need to get these tires replaced... but kinda worried about not going to the dealer with an EV if they jack it up wrong or something.
 
Haus

Haus

<Silver Donator>
12,494
48,560
Cad said:
Swapping a battery is easy as hell. 12V batteries aren't particularly dangerous as long as you don't like connect the terminals with a wrench or something. Be sure to get the restraints in the battery box put back right, the battery is restrained for a very good reason.
Click to expand...

The beating isn't swapping the battery. That's cake. The beating is that I have to take around half the "felt board" lining out of my trunk to get access, including all those damn plastic 'christmas tree' retaining clips, and remove the real plastic cowl over the trunk latch, just to get access. I will spend 10 minutes swapping battery, and probably an hour and a half disassembling and reassembling my trunk. heh

Unrelated :
1727798346995.png
 
  • 2Worf
Reactions: 1 users
Fucker

Fucker

Log Wizard
12,361
27,912
Haus said:
The beating isn't swapping the battery. That's cake. The beating is that I have to take around half the "felt board" lining out of my trunk to get access, including all those damn plastic 'christmas tree' retaining clips, and remove the real plastic cowl over the trunk latch, just to get access. I will spend 10 minutes swapping battery, and probably an hour and a half disassembling and reassembling my trunk. heh

Unrelated :
Click to expand...
A guy I knew had an old car, had to remove the exhaust manifold to get to the battery. Annual job because exhaust manifold would cook the battery. And then Porsche Cayenne with battery under driver's seat. Real big PITA, that. The Dodge with the battery in the front fender, gotta remove wheel first.
 
Cad

Cad

scientia potentia est
<Bronze Donator>
25,066
47,288
Haus said:
The beating isn't swapping the battery. That's cake. The beating is that I have to take around half the "felt board" lining out of my trunk to get access, including all those damn plastic 'christmas tree' retaining clips, and remove the real plastic cowl over the trunk latch, just to get access. I will spend 10 minutes swapping battery, and probably an hour and a half disassembling and reassembling my trunk. heh

Unrelated :
View attachment 549639
Click to expand...
Fair point. The only cars I've seen with trunk batteries were BMW's and Subarus that had swapped them there, and they were just sitting there mostly exposed.

What car has a factory trunk battery? My porsches had trunk batteries but they were still in the front. :)
 
Haus

Haus

<Silver Donator>
12,494
48,560
Fucker said:
A guy I knew had an old car, had to remove the exhaust manifold to get to the battery. Annual job because exhaust manifold would cook the battery. And then Porsche Cayenne with battery under driver's seat. Real big PITA, that. The Dodge with the battery in the front fender, gotta remove wheel first.
Click to expand...
I've also had the fun of dealing with "Oh, you have to remove the wheel, jack the car up high enough, unbolt these 4 bolts and drop the battery down, then put it back up into the car when you're done.

At first I thought this was insane and they were hiring idiotic engineers. Then it really struck me. Car batteries are built to supposedly last 3-5 years normally. In the past that meant you'd be changing out the battery a few times in the lifetime of owning the car (think everything up until the mid 70's). Then around the mid 70's and into 80's they started building cars where it seems the intended goal shifted to "We want them buying a new car every 3-4 years". And if that's the goal then there would be no need for an easy to swap battery as the owner might never swap a battery out. When I thought about that it all started making more sense.
 
Haus

Haus

<Silver Donator>
12,494
48,560
Cad said:
Fair point. The only cars I've seen with trunk batteries were BMW's and Subarus that had swapped them there, and they were just sitting there mostly exposed.

What car has a factory trunk battery? My porsches had trunk batteries but they were still in the front. :)
Click to expand...
Well sir... Allow me to introduce to you the 2017 Cadillac CTS vSport....
1727800928159.png


Honestly this will give me a chance to redo some things I've wanted to do in the trunk anyways. Like adding a controlled 12v port so I can have a charger/things in the trunk when needed. As well as a minor modification/conversation to the underdeck storage area (*cough*adding a locking pistol box bolted to the deck*cough*)
 
Cad

Cad

scientia potentia est
<Bronze Donator>
25,066
47,288
Haus said:
Well sir... Allow me to introduce to you the 2017 Cadillac CTS vSport....
View attachment 549643

Honestly this will give me a chance to redo some things I've wanted to do in the trunk anyways. Like adding a controlled 12v port so I can have a charger/things in the trunk when needed. As well as a minor modification/conversation to the underdeck storage area (*cough*adding a locking pistol box bolted to the deck*cough*)
Click to expand...
Yea that looks like a pain in the ass, hah. Have fun with that.
 
Aamry

Aamry

Blackwing Lair Raider
2,343
2,051
Haus said:
I'll try to post photos and potentially a recording of my profanity laden commentary of the process....
Click to expand...
It shouldn't be THAT hard to remove that panel.

The Dodge Intrepid battery was inside the front passenger side wheel well as I recall. Similar to the Ford Maverick it's behind the wheel well
 
Burren

Burren

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
4,297
5,756
Speaking of wheels; OEM set went off to powder coat today to become “White Gold”

IMG_5506.jpeg
 
  • 2Like
  • 1Mother of God
Reactions: 2 users
Haus

Haus

<Silver Donator>
12,494
48,560
Aamry said:
It shouldn't be THAT hard to remove that panel.

The Dodge Intrepid battery was inside the front passenger side wheel well as I recall. Similar to the Ford Maverick it's behind the wheel well
Click to expand...
The problem is it's not JUST that panel. The floor deck panel covers the attachment points for it on the bottom, so it has to come out. The panel that covers the connectors on the top (i.e. under the back window/deck) has to come out. And the plastic guard (where the net cargo clips attach and covering the trunk latch mechanism) covers the side connectors, so it has to come out as well. I'll be one piece away from removing all the interior covers. So I am debating pulling the last one, then taking the opportunity to put in better soundproofing while I'm at it, since I've also wanted to do that. (interior soundproofing I have a guy to do since I don't want to deal with moving the seats out and back in).

I've seen some designs I'm debating trying to integrate for better and more appropriate trunk storage....

1727809032454.png
 
  • 2Like
Reactions: 1 users
Burren

Burren

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
4,297
5,756
Haus said:
The problem is it's not JUST that panel. The floor deck panel covers the attachment points for it on the bottom, so it has to come out. The panel that covers the connectors on the top (i.e. under the back window/deck) has to come out. And the plastic guard (where the net cargo clips attach and covering the trunk latch mechanism) covers the side connectors, so it has to come out as well. I'll be one piece away from removing all the interior covers. So I am debating pulling the last one, then taking the opportunity to put in better soundproofing while I'm at it, since I've also wanted to do that. (interior soundproofing I have a guy to do since I don't want to deal with moving the seats out and back in).

I've seen some designs I'm debating trying to integrate for better and more appropriate trunk storage....

View attachment 549682
Click to expand...
Needs more guns though.
 
Sludig

Sludig

Buzzfeed Editor
9,733
10,307
Burren said:
Speaking of wheels; OEM set went off to powder coat today to become “White Gold”

View attachment 549681
Click to expand...
See that would terrify me that one fails. If I was doing mine plan was to leave it up on friends lift. Though I might walk away from now, and put the money towards VelocityAP tune to get more of the OG crazy sound back etc, and would like to get my eyes lasered by Spring.
 
Burns

Burns

Avatar of War Slayer
7,290
14,383
Haus said:
The problem is it's not JUST that panel. The floor deck panel covers the attachment points for it on the bottom, so it has to come out. The panel that covers the connectors on the top (i.e. under the back window/deck) has to come out. And the plastic guard (where the net cargo clips attach and covering the trunk latch mechanism) covers the side connectors, so it has to come out as well. I'll be one piece away from removing all the interior covers. So I am debating pulling the last one, then taking the opportunity to put in better soundproofing while I'm at it, since I've also wanted to do that. (interior soundproofing I have a guy to do since I don't want to deal with moving the seats out and back in).

I've seen some designs I'm debating trying to integrate for better and more appropriate trunk storage....

View attachment 549682
Click to expand...
Have you looked around for what various people have done to make replacing it easier, after the first one goes out?

The C6 Zo6 and all C7 Vettes have the battery in the back, and while they are both easier to get too than what you are describing (C6Zo6 moreso), some people put in smaller closed cell batteries made for racing (because they are usually racing the car at various levels). I've looked at some of the batteries in the past, and while I don't remember the good reviewed brands off hand, it might be something that smaller and fits into that slot, where you wouldn't need to take everything apart again.

Of course, all that is probably not worth it, unless you plan on keeping the car another 8+ years.

Example from C6 Zo6:
Standard battery:​
2024-10-01 17.32.46 www.google.com df1d9ae6a30e.png
​
To (there are different shaped racing batteries too, to fit different forms):​
2024-10-01 17.26.03 www.google.com b3f8118273fc.png

Here is the C7, if anyone is curious, it's a bit more difficult, but still not bad (skipped intro direct into showing access to battery)(techno elevator music warning):
 
Burren

Burren

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
4,297
5,756
Sludig said:
See that would terrify me that one fails. If I was doing mine plan was to leave it up on friends lift. Though I might walk away from now, and put the money towards VelocityAP tune to get more of the OG crazy sound back etc, and would like to get my eyes lasered by Spring.
Click to expand...
They’re rated for 3 tons each and the car only weighs 3100 pounds. Should be ok.
 
Haus

Haus

<Silver Donator>
12,494
48,560
Burns said:
Have you looked around for what various people have done to make replacing it easier, after the first one goes out?

The C6 Zo6 and all C7 Vettes have the battery in the back, and while they are both easier to get too than what you are describing (C6Zo6 moreso), some people put in smaller closed cell batteries made for racing (because they are usually racing the car at various levels). I've looked at some of the batteries in the past, and while I don't remember the good reviewed brands off hand, it might be something that smaller and fits into that slot, where you wouldn't need to take everything apart again.

Of course, all that is probably not worth it, unless you plan on keeping the car another 8+ years.

Example from C6 Zo6:
Standard battery:​
​
To (there are different shaped racing batteries too, to fit different forms):​

Here is the C7, if anyone is curious, it's a bit more difficult, but still not bad (skipped intro direct into showing access to battery)(techno elevator music warning):
Click to expand...

The way I look at it, I will keep this car until the wheels fall off it. I love the thing. But also, if changing the battery is just a once every 8 years beatdown I can live with it. I'll whine like hell about it, but I can live with it ;)

My concern with the small closed cell batteries would be how they are at long term sustainability and charge.
 
Burns

Burns

Avatar of War Slayer
7,290
14,383
Haus said:
The way I look at it, I will keep this car until the wheels fall off it. I love the thing. But also, if changing the battery is just a once every 8 years beatdown I can live with it. I'll whine like hell about it, but I can live with it ;)

My concern with the small closed cell batteries would be how they are at long term sustainability and charge.
Click to expand...
There were tradeoffs when I looked into them, but don't remember them all, exactly, other than price. I'm using an AMG sealed battery right now, but it's not a "race battery." The price difference so as not to worry about acid spill and checking water levels was worth it to me.

Also, in order to get the best deal, I've found (after reading car forums) that I can use any of 3 or 4 battery types that all fit in my car's battery tray; not just the 1 type that the reference guide in every store (or website) says must go in your car.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.