Woodworking
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Ok FOH bros I need some advise / help . My father in law made this sign for us in 2020. It was made out of scrap wood & vinyl tape. This is what it looked like when he made it in 2020.
Unfortunately he’s no longer with us and 4 years of SNV summers (100-120 highs + single digit humidity) have beat the shit out of it. Note: A few years ago I replaced the letters with wood ones that have since delaminated.
My woodworking skill is I took wood shop in high school. PC's are more my thing but I need some advice about what I can do to rehab this to make it last longer. The backing and letters are basically garbage now. But throwing away the bears/cat – cat tail is a non starter. Nor is throwing that garbage dollar store bird house in the trash where it belongs as my wife said a ‘good friend’ gave it to her and it’s special.
I have broken down most of the sign since it was screwed together for the most part. I cannot tell how the tail is attached and I’m thinking it’s wood glued. If I can get the tail off I would like to repaint the bears/cat and attach it to an engineered wood product. Any recommendations there? I have skill saws/chop saws but assume I’d need a special blade to cut engineered wood (Trek/etc).
I have 3” metal letters to go back so I’m good there but the rest I’m a little lost. Is there a good paint / covering I can put on it all to make it take the sun beating better?
Feel free to talk shit about the work but help a brother out huh?
Unfortunately he’s no longer with us and 4 years of SNV summers (100-120 highs + single digit humidity) have beat the shit out of it. Note: A few years ago I replaced the letters with wood ones that have since delaminated.
My woodworking skill is I took wood shop in high school. PC's are more my thing but I need some advice about what I can do to rehab this to make it last longer. The backing and letters are basically garbage now. But throwing away the bears/cat – cat tail is a non starter. Nor is throwing that garbage dollar store bird house in the trash where it belongs as my wife said a ‘good friend’ gave it to her and it’s special.
I have broken down most of the sign since it was screwed together for the most part. I cannot tell how the tail is attached and I’m thinking it’s wood glued. If I can get the tail off I would like to repaint the bears/cat and attach it to an engineered wood product. Any recommendations there? I have skill saws/chop saws but assume I’d need a special blade to cut engineered wood (Trek/etc).
I have 3” metal letters to go back so I’m good there but the rest I’m a little lost. Is there a good paint / covering I can put on it all to make it take the sun beating better?
Feel free to talk shit about the work but help a brother out huh?
It looks like the cats are screwed to the 2x4 backer blocks. I can see the heads from the front and tips sticking out the back. Try backing them out and odds are fair you're fine. If there's also glue you could try a heat gun. Or just go scorched earth and take an oscillating multi tool to the back. Cut the screws, chop up the 2x4, and then sand the back of the cats flush. But I'd bet the screws are the extent of it
Durable outdoor finishes are tough. Moisture, UV, and changing temperatures will mess up about anything. You could refresh the paint and maybe put some marine varnish over it. Most outdoor objects need touchups every couple years.
Goatface
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Chinese furniture maker with great technique and some pretty cool design ideas (check his solution for cable management in this desk).
Burns
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Different sort of woodworking than usual here, but this guys acoustic guitars look like they cost a pretty penny, for this level of quality. I don't read Japanese, so dunno if any prices are listed on his site: Standard Models | Keystone Stringed Instruments
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The prices are on his site in PDFs. They vary alot based on wood used. Hard to follow. Maybe $1,000 to $10,000 USD depending on material. Or maybe the base price was 10,000, hard to track. One of pages https://www.keystone-si.com/_files/ugd/c5cfc3_f8bb3a2ee65345068b056ad0306e77db.pdf
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Burns
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This looks right, or at least it reads like every guitar starts at $10,000 and then you add the cost listed for whatever option you want. The baseline material, for that original $10k, set to $0 on the spreadsheet.
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Yeah I mean those things are pretty much entirely hand made and shaped and sometimes takes weeks, even months to finish. Plenty of acoustic guitar videos out there from start to finish. And actually $10K is on the low side, price wise. Some of these things go up to $50K or more depending on wood used. This dudes guitars start at $12.500 for base and only go up from there.
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The_Black_Log Foler
PalsCo CEO - Stock Pals | Pantheon Pals
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So the most recent hurricane that came through Florida took a bunch of trees down. I’m new to woodworking but I’m seeing huge oak slices around that I think would make cool side tables. Not sure what kind of oak these are, usually it’s water oaks that fall during hurricanes.
I know I need to air dry it first. Should I bother cutting the slices thinner before air drying? I was planning on just stickering them outside with tin sheet metal cover.
The end goal I think would be side tables like this but larger diameter and not perfectly round.
Also what other woods should I be on the look out for to use for furniture projects? We get down pine trees, maples, and oaks primarily.
I know I need to air dry it first. Should I bother cutting the slices thinner before air drying? I was planning on just stickering them outside with tin sheet metal cover.
The end goal I think would be side tables like this but larger diameter and not perfectly round.
Also what other woods should I be on the look out for to use for furniture projects? We get down pine trees, maples, and oaks primarily.
Siliconemelons
Naxxramas 1.0 Raider
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There are things you buy to poke the wood and test its dryness or whatever.
Takes a good time outsider even in FL
You can stick them in the oven also or a kiln
There are so many nice looking pine logs from the ‘cane i want to pickup but they are huge and if they cut them to be manageable they are too small
Takes a good time outsider even in FL
You can stick them in the oven also or a kiln
There are so many nice looking pine logs from the ‘cane i want to pickup but they are huge and if they cut them to be manageable they are too small
Bandwagon
Kolohe
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I really hate that look....especially the firewood rounds in a living room. I appreciate the live edge & natural look on all sorts of things, but dunking a piece of firewood in shellac and putting it in the living room is some tiktok mom shit to me. Even if she goes the extra mile and screws a few legs to the bottom.
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It maybe has a place in a log cabin/lodge aesthetic, but nowhere else.
Everything with good size and grain. Resist internet snobbery. You can make quality stuff out of essentially any wood with good choices and techniques. Generations of craftsmen used pine. Particularly in FL you'll have lots of Southern Yellow Pine, which although it has a ton of resin and will gum up your tools is harder than many hardwoods.
Goatface
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having slices or cookies not split is the hard part, using something like achorseal, oil paint, varnish or other things can help.
air drying takes something like 3 months per 1/4 inch of thickness.
there are dozens of diy kilms out there, ones with light bulbs are about the cheapest
this guy uses a red heat lamp, but no end grain treatment, covers his setup in like the first few mins
the wood is Sequoia, he makes hanging wall art out of it
air drying takes something like 3 months per 1/4 inch of thickness.
there are dozens of diy kilms out there, ones with light bulbs are about the cheapest
this guy uses a red heat lamp, but no end grain treatment, covers his setup in like the first few mins
the wood is Sequoia, he makes hanging wall art out of it
Noodleface
A Mod Real Quick
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Kind of a weird question.
I bought a guitar (basswood) that someone stripped all the paint off. It's bare, though I'm not sure if there's a dealer on the top. The back was very rough so I sanded it with 80, 120, 220 the. 320 sandpaper. It's pretty smooth.
My plan is to use a water based dye on it and then apply about 10-15 coats of tru-oil.
Question, any gotchas I need to be aware of? Assume 320 is high enough for this.
The top is very smooth, should I sand it as well or assume it's in good shape to stain?
I plan to go heavy on the stain because the wood grain is not awesome.
I bought a guitar (basswood) that someone stripped all the paint off. It's bare, though I'm not sure if there's a dealer on the top. The back was very rough so I sanded it with 80, 120, 220 the. 320 sandpaper. It's pretty smooth.
My plan is to use a water based dye on it and then apply about 10-15 coats of tru-oil.
Question, any gotchas I need to be aware of? Assume 320 is high enough for this.
The top is very smooth, should I sand it as well or assume it's in good shape to stain?
I plan to go heavy on the stain because the wood grain is not awesome.
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Basswood is soft. 320 is high enough for the wood. I would use a sanding sealer before staining. If you plan to use the guitar regularly, I would plan on something more than an oil only finish.
I'm not familiar with tru-oil. Is it meant to get 10-15 coats? Usually oil finishes don't cure well if they are thick.
Most wooden instruments I'm aware of fall into two camps:
1. oil + varnish (like violins, mandolins, and accoustic guitars). The varnish dries hard, but is not very durable or resistant to abrasion or chemical /water damage.
2. Lacquer (like pianos and electric guitars). Laquers are very hard and abrasion/chemical resistant. They can be polished to a mirror gloss.
Plenty of examples of both being done online.
Bandwagon
Kolohe
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I'm in the midst of a real love affair with Rubio Monocoat (pure) right now. Absolutely love this stuff.....but I have no idea whatsoever what considerations people have for finish on acoustic instruments. It's insanely easy to work with though.