Men's Fashion

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Khane

Got something right about marriage
20,587
14,314
Shirt of great material and Men's Wearhouse do not belong in the same sentence.
 

mixtilplix

Lord Nagafen Raider
1,295
109
If you look up a local tailor/seamstress, they do alterations on shirts that make them feel custom fit for like $10. So take any ~$40 shirt of great material that you can find at Nordstrom Rack, Men's Warehouse (some great sales here), etc., add $10 to the purchase price, and you have a custom shirt. I have a really long arms for my torso, so I need to buy slightly larger shirts that I just get taken in.

So... you're paying for the name/service.
This is so wrong. Nothing beats a bespoke shirt. You end up screwing up the original silhouette of a shirt and removing all the stitching when you get a tailor to chop a shirt up like that. All seams get twisted due to the sides getting pulled in/out. Also a tailor can't make a sleeve longer then it is.

There are some pretty cheap online bespoke shirts services out there. Get sized correctly and order a cheap one for yourself and you will notice what a difference a good fitting shirt is, even one made out of crappy fabric.
 

Palum

what Suineg set it to
27,399
43,512
So I'm attending a wedding in August and I'm in the wedding party. Normally I wouldn't give two shits about taking the tuxedo to the reception if it was formal, except the reception is dressy casual. I'm planning on bringing some slacks and a nice shirt to change into after the ceremony but leaving the jacket and tie. Any etiquette objections? Not feeling dragging a tux and complete suit and accessories on the plane just for half a day's clothes but I feel like I should change out of the tux.
 

splorge

Silver Knight of the Realm
235
172
So I'm attending a wedding in August and I'm in the wedding party. Normally I wouldn't give two shits about taking the tuxedo to the reception if it was formal, except the reception is dressy casual. I'm planning on bringing some slacks and a nice shirt to change into after the ceremony but leaving the jacket and tie. Any etiquette objections? Not feeling dragging a tux and complete suit and accessories on the plane just for half a day's clothes but I feel like I should change out of the tux.
Why not just take the tux jacket off for the reception. A tux without the jacket isnt that much more formal, and people should understand you flew in. Besides no harm being a tad better dressed.

rrr_img_71018.jpg
 

Deruvian

Lord Nagafen Raider
663
125
So my custom J. Hilburn shirt finally came in and it fits like a dream and is of good quality material. With that said, when it was all said and done, it came to $140. Is that typical for quality button down shirts or am I paying for the name /service? I know the price can fluctuate depending on material, customizations, etc., but will they be a bit cheaper in the future now that my fitting is done and they have it on file?
I highly doubt that you're paying for the name. You could probably find a smaller outfit that does a similar job for a little bit less, but the price difference wouldn't be that much. I'm actually considering getting measured by them, as I'm already paying in the 100-120 range for a lot of my shirts that probably don't fit nearly as well as the J. Hilburn one would.

In regards to alterations, I've had shirts altered a few times with varying results. One shirt that had already fit me well and was of good quality came out exceptionally well. The other two just didn't look right, the fabric sort of bulges out at the sides about 1/4 of the way down my chest. One of these two messed up alterations was on a Zegna off the rack shirt (for my interview suit); so beware that the alteration route can certainly, in my experience, leave you with a bit of regret both in terms of the shirt not fitting correctly and in having wasted a good shirt. Especially with the Zegna shirt, I wish that I had a bespoke dress shirt created instead, as it would have been the far better bet for the money.
 

Soygen

The Dirty Dozen For the Price of One
<Nazi Janitors>
28,518
45,022
Recommend me some comfortable slip on black loafers that are under 100 bucks. I need some new shoes for my work.
 

Tenks

Bronze Knight of the Realm
14,163
607
So my custom J. Hilburn shirt finally came in and it fits like a dream and is of good quality material. With that said, when it was all said and done, it came to $140. Is that typical for quality button down shirts or am I paying for the name /service? I know the price can fluctuate depending on material, customizations, etc., but will they be a bit cheaper in the future now that my fitting is done and they have it on file?
You can buy a shirt made by Gustin from Japanese cloth made in USA for ~$100. Their shirt fit is somewhat love or hate, though. I own four of them.

-edit-

Actually they're cheaper. I always buy from selvage cloth so the price is higher. A standard issue OCBD is #70. But this isn't a suit+tie button down they're more casual.

Japan White Oxford | Japanese Oxford Shirting | Gustin
 

Falstaff

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
8,448
3,394
This is so wrong. Nothing beats a bespoke shirt. You end up screwing up the original silhouette of a shirt and removing all the stitching when you get a tailor to chop a shirt up like that. All seams get twisted due to the sides getting pulled in/out. Also a tailor can't make a sleeve longer then it is.

There are some pretty cheap online bespoke shirts services out there. Get sized correctly and order a cheap one for yourself and you will notice what a difference a good fitting shirt is, even one made out of crappy fabric.
This I would agree with. I've been buying my shirts fromCharles Tyrwhitt for Men's Dress Shirts, Suits, Ties, Shoes & Accessories | CTShirts.com


which I know from someone else in this thread is apparently pseudo-bespoke aka make Americans think we are a classy British menswear company or something, but whatever, they fit better than, or just as good, as my Brooks Brothers shirts and they are way cheaper.
 

Khane

Got something right about marriage
20,587
14,314
Bespoke clothing means "made to order". It's made specifically for you based on dozens of measurements taken by a tailor. Charles Tyrwhitt does not offer bespoke services as far as I know.

If you want bespoke for cheap you need to do something like this:
Custom Suits, Men's Tailored Shirt, Bespoke & Custom Made Clothes By MyTailor.com


And yes, they do a very, very good job. And yes, that is considered cheap for bespoke clothing.
 

Falstaff

Ahn'Qiraj Raider
8,448
3,394
I meant psuedo something else... what is the fashon street in London? Saville Row? You get my point I hope.
 

Tenks

Bronze Knight of the Realm
14,163
607
I generally just try and find a brand that makes shirts that work for me. The issue with bespoke is not only the price but I've seen plenty of bespoke that was clearly rushed and the quality just wasn't there. Using cloths that were, in my opinion, rather cheap and rushed stitching. If you want to get quality craftsmanship and quality materials you are suddenly paying out the nose for bespoke because you need your sleeve length to be 0.25" longer than most stuff. In general, unless you have a very odd body type, there is some company out there with an aesthetic you agree with and quality you enjoy. For me that is generally clothing made in Japan.
 

Khane

Got something right about marriage
20,587
14,314
I generally just try and find a brand that makes shirts that work for me. The issue with bespoke is not only the price but I've seen plenty of bespoke that was clearly rushed and the quality just wasn't there. Using cloths that were, in my opinion, rather cheap and rushed stitching. If you want to get quality craftsmanship and quality materials you are suddenly paying out the nose for bespoke because you need your sleeve length to be 0.25" longer than most stuff. In general, unless you have a very odd body type, there is some company out there with an aesthetic you agree with and quality you enjoy. For me that is generally clothing made in Japan.
This doesn't make any sense. I've never seen bespoke clothing that was shoddy. You're arguing off the rack shit has a better chance of being higher quality? Paying out the nose for bespoke because you need sleeve length to be .25" longer than normal? Bespoke is literally a pattern made just for you, cut from the cloth to the specific length on the spot. There is no "longer than most stuff" when it comes to bespoke, it's all different because they take everyone's measurements and no 2 people are the same. They don't have a special price based on your measurements. It's all the same price based on quality of fabric. Unless you're a 6'7 340lb gorilla maybe.
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,358
16,248
I bought a pair of Nunn Bush (Nann Bush, something?) shoes for work, a deeper brown. After a few months they were faded to shit on the sides. I did oil and polish them quite a bit but still happened. What's the proper way to prevent this on my next pair? I much prefer a brown dress shoe to black except when I'm wearing black slacks. These are for work, so daily use.
 

The Master

Bronze Squire
2,084
2
This is so wrong. Nothing beats a bespoke shirt. You end up screwing up the original silhouette of a shirt and removing all the stitching when you get a tailor to chop a shirt up like that. All seams get twisted due to the sides getting pulled in/out. Also a tailor can't make a sleeve longer then it is.

There are some pretty cheap online bespoke shirts services out there. Get sized correctly and order a cheap one for yourself and you will notice what a difference a good fitting shirt is, even one made out of crappy fabric.
Um, I get a larger shirt so the sleeves are long enough, then get it taken in. They don't make the sleeves longer. And a good tailor can do alterations well enough you'll never notice, because they tailor it specifically toyourframe and silhouette.

Granted you need to find a good tailor/seamstress. Mine is a retired grandmother who does it as a hobby to help out her fixed income. I am good friends with her, so it isn't a faceless relationship where she doesn't care if she gets it perfect. But that is true of any skilled profession, you need to find someone who knows what they are doing and cares about doing it correctly every time.

Also I feel like I should mention my Mother sewed all my clothes, and my five siblings clothes, growing up. I'm good with a needle and thread, I know how shirts work because I've made them. I could in theory do my own modifications, but it isn't worth the $10 to me. There is no reason you can't modify a shirt to fit perfectly as if it was made for you, as long as it is slightly to big and the sleeves fit.
 

Creslin

Trakanon Raider
2,505
1,151
This doesn't make any sense. I've never seen bespoke clothing that was shoddy. You're arguing off the rack shit has a better chance of being higher quality? Paying out the nose for bespoke because you need sleeve length to be .25" longer than normal? Bespoke is literally a pattern made just for you, cut from the cloth to the specific length on the spot. There is no "longer than most stuff" when it comes to bespoke, it's all different because they take everyone's measurements and no 2 people are the same. They don't have a special price based on your measurements. It's all the same price based on quality of fabric. Unless you're a 6'7 340lb gorilla maybe.
Well half of what I see called bespoke is actually Mtm so its tough to tell sometimes what you are buying unless its a truly high quality shop. Imo mtm is good enough for most people if your body type is normal, one in a thousand people might be able to tell the difference.
 

Palum

what Suineg set it to
27,399
43,512
I bought a pair of Nunn Bush (Nann Bush, something?) shoes for work, a deeper brown. After a few months they were faded to shit on the sides. I did oil and polish them quite a bit but still happened. What's the proper way to prevent this on my next pair? I much prefer a brown dress shoe to black except when I'm wearing black slacks. These are for work, so daily use.
You can't. The best you can do is a LOT of conditioning and get a nice worn patina look to them. You will get the 'light' color on the seams and exposed areas of those shoes. You sound like you want those casual shoes to look like dress shoes, different leather and different seams. I have probably the same Nunn Bush ones you do (or one of the 2 other similar lines).
 

Palum

what Suineg set it to
27,399
43,512
Why not just take the tux jacket off for the reception. A tux without the jacket isnt that much more formal, and people should understand you flew in. Besides no harm being a tad better dressed.

rrr_img_71018.jpg
To be honest, I simply don't want to wear a rented tux around people and families I don't know/trust who might be drinking things like Bloody Marys.
 

Noodleface

A Mod Real Quick
38,358
16,248
You can't. The best you can do is a LOT of conditioning and get a nice worn patina look to them. You will get the 'light' color on the seams and exposed areas of those shoes. You sound like you want those casual shoes to look like dress shoes, different leather and different seams. I have probably the same Nunn Bush ones you do (or one of the 2 other similar lines).
No, I understand they'll look worn. I like a nice worn shoe, but mine look like shit.